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Post by geh3333 on Aug 11, 2014 18:58:45 GMT -5
You said someone drilled out the oil plug , I hope all of the metal shavings came out with the oil . If not you may have some problems down the road .
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 11, 2014 19:46:01 GMT -5
Metal shavings are the least of his problems at this point.  Without the header and exhaust the motor runs lean and hot. Burns the edge of the exhaust valve and then it doesn't seal. No seal, no compression. Thumb over the hole test should push your thumb off, not suck it in. Also need to do that test with the throttle wide open allowing it to suck in as much air as possible. Running with low or bad oil will damage the rings. Bad rings, low compression. If you're persistent you can force an engine to run with low compression but not well. A compression tester with a dial will give you a quantifiable number to work with. Only other way to tell for sure is to pull the head and the cylinder for a look see. Those style fuel pumps run on vacuum pulses from the intake manifold. Poor compression, poor vacuum. Bad connections, poor vacuum. Split off a dozen different ways, poor vacuum. Alleyoop can square you away with what all can be disconnected and tossed in a box for later. The simpler it gets, the better. |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 11, 2014 20:38:46 GMT -5
If it's sucking his thumb in then his valves are not set right . Both ports are closed while the piston is dropping in the cylinder . The intake should be open at this point . I guess it all depends on how hard it's sucking in .
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 11, 2014 23:49:22 GMT -5
my mistake, i checked it again and it pushed out my finger.
i really don't think compression is the issue and i looked at the fuel pump and saw it moving while i was trying to crank
i got some carb fluid and a new spark plug bit it didn't start
the fuel pumps air hose is facing the carb.
as i pulled out the carb, i found this...
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 12, 2014 1:35:16 GMT -5
That is your enricher. When you first start the scooter, the enricher is fed voltage which heats up a thermo-expanding wax inside. As this expands, it pushes out a pin that plugs a jet which allows extra fuel during starting, but shuts it off once warmed up, acting much like an auto-choke.
To test it, remove it from the carb by removing the two screws on the c-clip around it. Now hook it up to the battery with jumper wires. In a period of 1-5 minutes it should expand the pin out about 3/8" or so. If it doesn't move, it's busted.
The enricher helps with starting by allowing in extra fuel, but only makes starting hard if it's stuck in the extended position preventing that extra fuel, not if it's broken in a shrunken position.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 12, 2014 6:11:21 GMT -5
I think I'm just going to get a new carb to be on the safe side. (with the auto choke included) I found that the 2nd connection i showed was the one the auto choke is supposed to connect to Also on the auto choke i found that the wires are really worn down and looked like if i was to pull on them a little bit that they would break from the terminal I noticed that my throttle cable was set wrong. It wasn't even touching the adjustment on the carb. Probably been the problem the whole time I figured out how to get ride of the canisters on it and is going to do so... Before i started taking the carb off, i sprayed carb cleaner in the carb while trying to crank and i saw the muffler hole backfired. So i think it is the carb that the problem lies. So the next things i need to get are: complete muffler, a carb, and a cdi box, and or some new vacuum hose if needed I already ordered a solenoid, air filter, and a voltage regulator After i get all that stuff and it still doesn't crank then i guess I'm going to have to get a new engine JerryScript pmatulew alleyoop |
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 12, 2014 14:44:23 GMT -5
Plug that wire coming from the ENRICHER into the YELLOW AND GEEN connector that you had in your hands.
The ENRICHER BY DEFUALT feeds fuel to the motor for cold starts. Once the motor starts the YELLOW wire feeds voltage to the ENRICHER to shut off the extra fuel after 3-5 minutes the motor is running.
Alleyoop
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 12, 2014 18:44:54 GMT -5
If the spark plug is sparking, you don't need a CDI. Save your dollars for where they will do the most good.
There are lots of user serviceable parts inside the carburetor. No need to buy a new one just yet. Open it up and clean it out first before you declare it a loss. If you get a new one you'll have to make all the adjustments to mate it to your engine anyway.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 13, 2014 1:35:46 GMT -5
I need a new cdi because the one on there now is for dc and its a ac scooter I kind of ruined the carb when i decided to buy a new one and plus i checked the auto choke and it was bad pmatulew |
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 16, 2014 6:51:07 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 16, 2014 8:36:04 GMT -5
I wouldn't just replace the piston , you should get the whole cylinder and piston . You can even go with a 58.5 kit instead of the stock 57 mm . You can also get the 58.5 mm head .
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 16, 2014 10:35:18 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 16, 2014 11:42:38 GMT -5
That's even better . I like this one , it comes with a new cam which can really make a night and day difference , but it is a little more and I really like this seller . I've ordered many items from them and I've never had an issue in 3 yrs . m.ebay.com/itm/191263333324?nav=SEARCH |
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 16, 2014 13:02:14 GMT -5
Just remember the case has to be bored out.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 16, 2014 17:04:00 GMT -5
Bore out? Like dremal the engine where the cylinder will go?
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
