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Post by scutman on Jun 11, 2014 3:03:04 GMT -5
Hello everyone, i am new to this forum and the reason for coming here is because i have an issue with my wire harness. I bought a used scoot with a gy6 150cc and i am trying to rewire the whole harness. My first goal is to get the scoot running but with out any lights, horn, speed or rpm....so no accessories just to be able to start the engine and switch it off. Since i do not have the switch installed, in order to fire it up i short the starter relay terminals. When i do this the starter motor spins together with the engine but the wire i use to short the relay terminals gets extremely hot and i get lots of sparks. This shouldn't be happening right? from the diagram can someone spot my error? below is the diagram of how and what i have wired up to now.  |
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Post by william42 on Jun 11, 2014 5:57:06 GMT -5
A starter motor take a LOT of current to run so yes it's going to spark and if the wire you use is smaller than the amount of current it can pass through it then yes it's going to get hot. Look at the size of the red wires on the strater relay. They're fairly large right? Use that size wire to jump it and it probably won't get so hot, at least right away. But it's still going to spark.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 11, 2014 6:28:13 GMT -5
Sounds like one of your switch wires is going to ground,,you dont have any spark correct?
All you need to verify for that thing to run is that the pickup coil is sending a signal to the CDI,the CDI is getting AC from the stator,and the coil is getting its DC from the CDI.Make sure the motor has a good ground.
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 11, 2014 6:28:40 GMT -5
On the solenoid you have the two large wires bolted to the solenoid . Then you should have two skinny wires , if you ground one (green/red) then apply 12v to the (yellow/red ) it will then energize the solenoid and the starter .
I hope that answers your question .
John
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Post by trouty56 on Jun 11, 2014 6:37:41 GMT -5
I don't know about the starter solenoid on these scooters but there should be a 3rd terminal to close the contacts inside the relay.....a 12 volt wire there will close those contacts and eliminate the sparking.....
Too late....
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Post by scutman on Jun 11, 2014 7:39:18 GMT -5
Thanks a lot for the help everyone....i tried using a bigger wire to short the relay terminals as william42 suggested and you are right its a lot better, it doesn't get that hot. Ok so this is solved
The next thing is about the solenoid, currently i have only the two big wires connected as shown in the diagram above, the other two skinny ones are not connected to anything.
The two skinny wires are red/yellow and red/green as tvnacman said
so i will ground the red/green one.......where shall i ground it? to the frame or the engine?
and i shall pass 12V to the red/yellow one.......how exactly shall i do this? connect it directly to the battery terminal? if yes which terminal?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 11, 2014 7:56:02 GMT -5
I would go to the battery ground(neg) or valve cover bolt for a ground,,you can go to the positive side of the battery with the red/yellow but it really needs a switch or it will just keep cranking.Also make sure you have a good ground wire from negative side of battery to a valve cover bolt.
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Post by scutman on Jun 11, 2014 12:53:21 GMT -5
Thank you everyone, Everything is setup, the engine fires up but when i accelerate the engine dies. if i let it on its own it runs but once i accelerate even slightly it dies. what could this be?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 11, 2014 12:59:42 GMT -5
Low fuel delivery,,
How is your fuel flow to carb?Pull the fuel line off the carb and crank the motor over a few times,,does gas spurt out of the line really good?
Check and make sure the gas tank is venting,if fuel flow is good and strong to carb,,you might try to clean the carb and jets real good.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jun 11, 2014 14:35:17 GMT -5
To bypass kill switch, unplug the black wire on the 2wire plug going to your cdi. Theres a 4 wire plug and a 2wire plug connected to the cdi.
Only way to turn it off is to reconnect that wire or unplug the spark wire. Key won't even cut it off
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Post by trouty56 on Jun 12, 2014 5:34:40 GMT -5
Like Jersey said....carb cleaning with special attention to the main jet....could try adjusting the needle... But if you think about buying a carb kit....look at new carb prices first... I had a similar problem....was after I got a carb kit and the needle was a little different....put the old needle in and ran.....
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jun 12, 2014 9:04:56 GMT -5
have you checked the valve gaps?
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Post by scutman on Jun 12, 2014 9:49:12 GMT -5
i opened up the carb, the main jet was fine but the pilot jet was clogged,i changed that but still the same problem. I am also getting a good flow from the fuel line. what shall i do next? shall i check the valves
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 12, 2014 9:56:48 GMT -5
Yes,,also check to make sure you don't have any air leaks on the intake manifold,,do this by spraying some starting fluid lightly around the intake while its running,,if the idle changes by going up you have a leak that will cause it to bog and die..
I would also look into the back of the carb while you give it throttle with the air cleaner off,,you should see the slide with the needle move up while the motor picks up rpm,,if it doesn't there could be a problem with the CV vacuum chamber spring and or diaphragm...
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Post by scutman on Jun 13, 2014 3:25:46 GMT -5
I would also look into the back of the carb while you give it throttle with the air cleaner off,,you should see the slide with the needle move up while the motor picks up rpm,,if it doesn't there could be a problem with the CV vacuum chamber spring and or diaphragm... Hi, to understand what you mean please see the picture below, the part that i indicate with the red arrow should move upwards when i increase the throttle? One more question, if the engine is turned off the part that i indicate with the red arrow should also move when i accelerate or does it have to be running?  |
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