Lil red TaoTao  By  thxone (Read 9,733 times)

the optimal thing would require you to test different jet sizes, whenever you have installed a freeflow air intake.
Eg: when the engine is warm, and your top speed is 45MPH with (just an example) an 80 jet size, and you put a in it, and you're still at 45MPH, you might want to try a size .
I don't know the best sizes for the 63cc carbs, but I know they're not far away from the stock jet sizes.
You could also drill them out with a tiny drill, to barely anything larger than they are right now.

I'm just offering options. You could buy a kit, or drill it out; just as long as you don't drill away too much.

Took out the needle in the carb and moved the washer to the last bottom notch... it was on the notch just above it so I only moved it one... haven't really noticed much difference yet.

Thanks PGS

Ok, so I finally took it for a ride after changing the clip on the needle, On my gps it looks to be 3mph gained on flat ground WOT. I am very pleased as it only took 10 minutes to do. On the down side, I have issues still with the scooter bogging at lights or shutting off. It starts right back up but it's annoying. I fully believe my main jet is fine but I am not so sure about whatever controls the fuel when I come to a stop. Sometimes it bogs down and slowly comes back up in rpm's to the right idle speed. Take a look at my plug, this is after a WOT ride for 15 min and I pulled the plug. What do you see?

When it's cold and I first start it, it slightly smells of gas out of the tail pipe for like 15-30 seconds, then it smells perfectly fine. Should I go the other way with the clip on the needle?

Well it seems good where it is but I will move it two slots down tomorrow and see if it adversely affects it.

If you do too many mods at a time, you won't know which mod is responsible for the change; eg:
You modded the needle clip, and did the AF ratio change on the AF screw. Doing them both simultaneously might confuse you if the bike does not respond the way you want it to go.
Better to do one at a time, test and set it to the best setting, then do the other mod, test and set it to optimal setting; then go back to the first mod, and see if the same setting still holds true;
for instance:

If your bike was running lean in the mid range, you could benefit from upping the needle a bit, or you could change the AF screw, which in minimal ways also affect the mixture. Doing them both at the same time, may cause one's effects, to cancel out the other, or add to them, making the mixture possibly too rich... Just as example.

You lose top end with heavier rollers, because the engine goes into lower RPM, and does not have enough hp to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds.
Chances are if you are able to improve engine performance the heavier rollers might work out perfect, and when changing them back to those that worked before, might not be the optimal setting when you are able to get more power out of the engine through mods.

Most common mods (in order of installation) are:

1- BBK installation,
2- Free flow air intake, unrestricted exhaust
3- carburetor rejetting, (and carburetor tuning)
4- Gear change,
5- performance variator (if necessary).

All the above mods are tuned to which ever BBK you install. The larger BBK you install, the more power the engine has, the larger diameter exhaust, and bigger the air intake filter can be, the bigger the jets the carburetor needs, the larger the gear change the bike will be able to accept for a higher top speed.
With a gear change, chances are that a performance variator is not even necessary; as a performance variator is just an easier mod than a gear change mod, but in minor ways works out to the same end result (higher top speed).