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Timming
by: jjoshua20213 - Sept 18, 2013 13:34:11 GMT -5
Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 18, 2013 13:34:11 GMT -5
So all my bbk's that ive done have had the same result. About 5mph slower than stock but amazing accel. When I up the roller grams the bike just looses accel. I'm starting to question my method of replacing the camshaft. When the bikes are revvfed up hight or are at wot while riding it will cut out as if its loosing gas or i'm hitting the kill switch. I scratch a line from the big hole on the camshft leading to the link right in front of it ans scratch that too to remember how the chain goes. Am I doing it right?
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Timming
by: tvnacman - Sept 18, 2013 14:46:22 GMT -5
Post by tvnacman on Sept 18, 2013 14:46:22 GMT -5
line the mark on the flywheel to the indicator , then line the marks on the cam gear to the head . most bbk's you gain torq not rpm . Now you need to regear .
John
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Timming
by: f4milytime - Sept 18, 2013 15:43:28 GMT -5
Post by f4milytime on Sept 18, 2013 15:43:28 GMT -5
I'd say gearing also, for more top end.
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Timming
by: sailracer - Sept 18, 2013 15:51:12 GMT -5
Post by sailracer on Sept 18, 2013 15:51:12 GMT -5
[replyingto=jjoshua20213]jjoshua20213[/replyingto]no, you're not doing it right. The camshaft sprocket has three holes in it. two are small, and one is bigger. first thing you must do is remove the fan cover over the flywheel. you will see 2 marks on it , an f and a T , Align the T with the protrusion on the crankcase.This ensures that the piston is at TOP DEAD CENTER.Now you can install the camshaft.The larger hole goes up or away from the motor. The two smaller holes line up with the plane of the head. Straight across it. If you cant see both of the small holes equally. you can jump a link until you do.Now you are at Top Dead Center of the Compression stroke.(piston at top, both valves closed.Torque the head bolts to 12-15 lb/ft . now set the valve clearance to .004"on both.I'd say something may be wrong if you lose top end. But you should not try top end before you do a break in so the rings can properly seal. Do not mess with the carb yet unless you changed the airbox. You should also get some taller gearing (16/50)is a good start.Lighten up on the variator weights also.
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now got my pic on here
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Timming
by: twinpower - Sept 18, 2013 23:22:45 GMT -5
Post by twinpower on Sept 18, 2013 23:22:45 GMT -5
So "T" stands for top dead center and "F" fully advance? if I were to set the timing on fully advance how would the engine run?
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Timming
by: millsc - Sept 18, 2013 23:28:05 GMT -5
Post by millsc on Sept 18, 2013 23:28:05 GMT -5
Set the timing right I go by the piston in the jug sometimes the marks are off rare though but don't rely on the flywheel
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Timming
by: millsc - Sept 18, 2013 23:30:50 GMT -5
Post by millsc on Sept 18, 2013 23:30:50 GMT -5
Oh and I look at top dead on the piston before I take it out and replace it with the bigger better stuff check the original timing and set accordingly
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Timming
by: alleyoop - Sept 18, 2013 23:42:32 GMT -5
Post by alleyoop on Sept 18, 2013 23:42:32 GMT -5
You First line up the "T" with the POINTER on the case, THEN put your cam on with the little holes even with the edge of the head now when you put the chain back on make sure the bottom of the chain is TIGHT and the top of the chain loose(that is where the TENSIONER will push the chain down to keep it nice and tight. Now after you put the chain on the CAM SPROCKET re- check the Timing on the FLYWHEEL, if it move LEFT of the "T a little that is good it will be a little ADVANCED. What you do NOT WANT after you put the CHAIN on is that the POINTER on the case it RIGHT of the "T" CLOSER to the "F" mark, That is RETARDING THE TIMING(in other words it will fire LATER and it may fire on the DOWN STROKE(not good for the CRANK BEARINGS). The Spark plug will fire anywhere from where the pointer is pointing on the FLYWHEEL TO THE "F" mark(that is your firing range). Alleyoop  |
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Timming
by: millsc - Sept 18, 2013 23:47:07 GMT -5
Post by millsc on Sept 18, 2013 23:47:07 GMT -5
time it just like alleys pic don't try to advance or retard do it right, make it exact I've been down this road do it right and double and triple check, be exact.
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Timming
by: alleyoop - Sept 18, 2013 23:51:04 GMT -5
Post by alleyoop on Sept 18, 2013 23:51:04 GMT -5
Most of the time the timing on the CASE will NOT point right on the "T" mark but if it does good, but if it happens to fall Just LEFT of the "T" that is fine. ONE link either way moves it quite a bit so it may not fall RIGHT ON THE "T" but do not let it fall to the RIGHT OF THE "T". As everyone SHOULD know little advanced will produce little more power.   Alleyoop |
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Timming
by: millsc - Sept 18, 2013 23:53:34 GMT -5
Post by millsc on Sept 18, 2013 23:53:34 GMT -5
check by the piston in the jug make sure its visually at the top of the jug, that's real top dead center
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Timming
by: sailracer - Sept 19, 2013 5:11:00 GMT -5
Post by sailracer on Sept 19, 2013 5:11:00 GMT -5
DX Check and double check everything, with the timing marks, and with your eyes. |
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Timming
by: pmatulew - Sept 19, 2013 5:48:05 GMT -5
Post by pmatulew on Sept 19, 2013 5:48:05 GMT -5
If you had a stroboscopic timing light and were so inclined you could hook it up and see that the "F" mark is lined up when the spark plug fires. You could also watch it advance and retard from the reference point as the RPM's change.
Back when motors had mechanical points and condensors and spinning distributors, that's how it was done. Didn't used to be no schmansy electronics.
Fiddling with the timing relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft is a no no. Little to gain and much to lose.
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Timming
by: alleyoop - Sept 19, 2013 12:45:06 GMT -5
Post by alleyoop on Sept 19, 2013 12:45:06 GMT -5
Unfortunately that is the only way to get them in time WITHOUT moving the pickup coil left or right or putting in a offset woodruff key. You can always slot the bolt holes on the pickup coil to move it a little left or right as well. But since the bolt holes on the Pickup Coil are not slotted you have no choice but to time it bringing the piston to TDC and then lay down your cam aligned and hope that when putting on the chain it meshs with the sprocket teeth and not have to move the chain 1 tooth in either direction because that will move the crank and timing. But as I mentioned before if it moves it a little to the LEFT of the "T" that is good, the thing you do not want is the timing to be Right of the "T" between the "T" and the "F" mark that is my only advice. Have fun and don't blow it up Alleyoop |
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jet
..BAD TO THE BONE..
