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Post by prodigit on Aug 26, 2013 19:18:07 GMT -5
If I would do it in a scooter garage?
My ATM has topped 5500 km, and it screetches (makes a (soft) screetching sound when accelerating), and it's performance is pretty low (does 40-42MPH tops, that's about 7MPH from what it would usually do).
It's MPG also has dropped to 97MPG with hard tires, where before I could get 107MPG with hard tires (38PSI).
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2013 19:25:33 GMT -5
No more that an hour labor i would think. Depends on the rate. Its sooo very simple man. You should give it a whirl!
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Post by sailracer on Aug 26, 2013 19:31:11 GMT -5
[replyingto=prodigit]prodigit[/replyingto]a screeching sound would have nothing to do with a valve adjustment.You need to inspect your variator,belt and clutch. The variator is what determines maximum rpm on the motor(provided you have a non rev-limited cdi. Valve adjustment is simple, but IMO it's not the problem
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 26, 2013 20:06:00 GMT -5
a screeching sound would have nothing to do with a valve adjustment.You need to inspect your variator,belt and clutch. The variator is what determines maximum rpm on the motor(provided you have a non rev-limited cdi. Valve adjustment is simple, but IMO it's not the problem I agree with this , has there been a large temp swing . How many tanks of gas has this problem been present ? John |
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Post by phssthpok on Aug 26, 2013 20:10:25 GMT -5
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 26, 2013 20:22:10 GMT -5
I have to say he may not be mechanically inclined enough to do the valves. He was one that could not find the Fuel Ratio Mixture screw on his carb. So he may be better off having someone do it for him. He could strip the valve cover screws the adjusting lock nuts cause oil leakage loose a rocker nut down the case along side the cam etc.. Stuff happens as they say.
Wouldn't want to have him ruin his ride.
Alleyoop
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Post by millsc on Aug 26, 2013 22:00:13 GMT -5
I charge 20 bucks
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Post by prodigit on Aug 26, 2013 22:21:32 GMT -5
Thanks alleyoop for your confidence!
Just like an oilchange which I youtubed, I think I can pull off a valve adjustment, by youtubing it.
And I did find the AF screw on my carb, it was just sealed.
But truth is I don't wanna do it, I have plenty of job and rather would be doing something else, and have someone else do it who knows more of it than me.
The screetching sound is not my variator. I've already opened it, and the belt looks like new, with barely any dust in the cvt case.
It may be the clutch. Funny thing is it screetches, even when I decelerate, but only in the beginning. As soon as the engine heats up, it ebbs away.
The sound comes from the side of the muffler, not the CVT side.
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Post by skuttadawg on Aug 26, 2013 23:00:22 GMT -5
The clutch shaft may need lube . A valve adjustment should be a half hour shop time and prices vary from shop to shop .
The engine must be cold to get a proper reading to see if they even need adjusting . Any autopart store should have valve gauges with the bent tip for 3 dollars or you could bend a standard flat blade feeler gauge set of blades .
All 4Ts will need to have it done at least once , with some needing it to be done out of the crate . My Echarm needing it around 2,200 miles and I am almost at 18k miles and it still runs great .
Prodigit I would look on Amazon for the Haynes Chinese Scooter repair manual since I bought a used copy ( was like brand new ) for only 6 dollars with free shipping . New is around 25 or so there and at the sponsors here . It is a great weath of information , tips and exploded diagrams . I get one for every car I buy or a Chilton brand .
Stock rollers ? They may have started or already have flat spots which prevents them from " rolling " like they can do better when new and round . I replaced the stock rollers at 5,500 miles as they just started to get flat spots with Dr Pulley sliders after hearing how great they are . It is true sliders are waaaaaaaay better in performance and outlast rollers . The DRP has a thicker coating and is harder too . I have read only a few posts that said DRP was hard and ate up a stock variator and some prefered to use KOSO brand of sliders . With 12k of miles on them take off is faster and now I top out at 70MPH instead of 75MPH like I used to . The ECU has a rev limiter in my Echarm .
On my 2T I put on a Hoca bb torque spring base ( stock does not have BBs ) which allows to torque spring to spin instead of get in a bind . It does sound like I have several " gears " more so than with the stock base .
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Post by rockynv on Aug 27, 2013 4:18:51 GMT -5
Sounds like its in the clutch or gearcase issue. Could even be a bad bearing or shaft causing the rear wheel to go out of alignment and rub the rear brake. Start with the clutch and clutch shaft paying attention to the needle bearings that the clutch spins on while idling. These need to be lubed everytime you open the case and remove the belt.
On the valve adjustment it depends on the shop. Figure 1/2 to 1 hour at a shop rate of $65 an hour. If they can be adjusted without taking the read bodywork off the bike then 1/2 hour otherwise figure 1 hour.
My bike has an access cover that allows you to get the valve adjustment done without even removing the seat bucket while other bikes require the complete rear body to be removed and the rear shocks disconnected to pivot the engine so the valve cover clears the frame and can be removed before you can adjust the valves.
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Post by sailracer on Aug 27, 2013 4:38:05 GMT -5
DX
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Post by JR on Aug 28, 2013 9:19:45 GMT -5
The clutch shaft may need lube . A valve adjustment should be a half hour shop time and prices vary from shop to shop . The engine must be cold to get a proper reading to see if they even need adjusting . Any autopart store should have valve gauges with the bent tip for 3 dollars or you could bend a standard flat blade feeler gauge set of blades . All 4Ts will need to have it done at least once , with some needing it to be done out of the crate . My Echarm needing it around 2,200 miles and I am almost at 18k miles and it still runs great . Prodigit I would look on Amazon for the Haynes Chinese Scooter repair manual since I bought a used copy ( was like brand new ) for only 6 dollars with free shipping . New is around 25 or so there and at the sponsors here . It is a great weath of information , tips and exploded diagrams . I get one for every car I buy or a Chilton brand . Stock rollers ? They may have started or already have flat spots which prevents them from " rolling " like they can do better when new and round . I replaced the stock rollers at 5,500 miles as they just started to get flat spots with Dr Pulley sliders after hearing how great they are . It is true sliders are waaaaaaaay better in performance and outlast rollers . The DRP has a thicker coating and is harder too . I have read only a few posts that said DRP was hard and ate up a stock variator and some prefered to use KOSO brand of sliders . With 12k of miles on them take off is faster and now I top out at 70MPH instead of 75MPH like I used to . The ECU has a rev limiter in my Echarm . On my 2T I put on a Hoca bb torque spring base ( stock does not have BBs ) which allows to torque spring to spin instead of get in a bind . It does sound like I have several " gears " more so than with the stock base . Rollers do not roll, if they did they wouldn't get the flat spots that they do. They simply slide and over time wear a flat spot. I'm seen them so bad they actually looked like sliders. When they wear flat spots top end is effected somewhat simply because the OD or height of the roller is reduced thus the variator face plate will not push the belt as far to the outermost part of the variator. JR |
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 28, 2013 12:53:51 GMT -5
You could rotate them so the Flat spot is no longer on the Ramp, BUT keep in mind you just lost some weight due to the flat spot that it wore off the roller and now they weigh less. So weighing less the rpms will be higher and loss of top end speed.
Alleyoop
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Post by gitsum on Aug 28, 2013 15:26:45 GMT -5
I think I can pull off a valve adjustment, by youtubing it. That's freakin' unbelievable! With all that screwed up techno babble crap you continue to post like you are an expert mechanic, how can you not handle a simple valve job? Remove the valve cover Find top dead center Use the proper size feeler gauge, a little snug but slides in without forcing, next larger gauge shouldn't fit Loosen the nut on top and turn the little square post in the center to get the proper adjustment Torque the locking nut properly and then double check the gap, put the valve cover back on. After a couple of times it should be like a 15 or 20 minute procedure. |
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Post by jeffery5568 on Aug 28, 2013 15:30:03 GMT -5
$20 seems fair
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jet
..BAD TO THE BONE..
