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Post by gingel on Aug 23, 2013 6:09:34 GMT -5
Hello,
I have a strange problem with my rear drum brake. I adjusted the nut on the drum brake, to make the brake lever more tighter, but when i turn the wheel by hand i noticed there is a point where you can feel resistance. I didn't over tighten it, there is a free play at the brake lever. When i untighten the nut, the resistance is gone, but then the brake lever is not tight enough. Also, when riding and braking with the rear brake, you can hear some squealing noise.
I replaced these brake shoes 4000KM (2500 miles) ago, but it started to do it a while ago. I tried cleaning the drum, and i had quiet for some time, but the squealing noise is back.
Anyone know why there is resistance when turning the wheel by hand? I understand something is rubbing, but when i opened it, everything seems to be ok. Maybe i should slightly grind the brake shoes with fine sand paper?
Thank you.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 23, 2013 11:56:40 GMT -5
Some brakes squeak. Some squeak a lot depending on the material the brakes shoes are made of. If your brake drum is not perfectly round that would make it drag part way around.
You may be able to clean up the drum surface with some fine paper if there is a rusty spot or something. Otherwise if it's truly out of round I think the only solution is to replace it.
As a test you could pull the brake shoes off, then put the wheel on temporarily and turn it by hand to verify that the problem is the brakes rubbing and not elsewhere in the drivetrain.
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Post by gingel on Aug 23, 2013 13:10:44 GMT -5
The drum is clean, and i can't see any rust. Also, there is not any visible damage to the drum.
I opened it again, and slightly cleaned the brake shoes with some fine sand paper, also cleaned the drum. I installed the wheel on (without tightening the nut of the wheel), and then i tightened the nut of the drum brake, and the wheel was spinning smoothly. When i tightened the wheel nut, then i felt that light resistance. Really weird.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 23, 2013 15:10:01 GMT -5
Is there some sort of rubber weatherproofing ring between the wheel and the swingarm that might be catching when you snug the wheel in place?
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 23, 2013 19:05:56 GMT -5
Did u put the spacer back in before the nut ? If not the nut is tightening against the bearings and this will cause resistance.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 23, 2013 19:54:52 GMT -5
It's very common in chinese scoots to have the drum brake pot being bored out of center. It takes a few hundreds of miles of braking for the pads to rub off the unevenness. Sanding won't help, as the brake pads are basically performing that function on the drum. there are 2 things you can do. If the brake pulse is really hard, loosen the nut a bit, and drive with a looser rear brake. You should be braking with the front brake at all times anyway, and mostly only use the rear brake for emergencies to aid out the front brake. Second option would be to tighten the nut to where the pulsing is very gentle. While you'll be riding the brake pads will level the unevenness, and after a few hundred miles, readjust the nut one click further. Just as long as the pulse (braking unevenness) is not too much, and would cause excessive heat, there is no problem. Most tires have aluminum rims, and aluminum is a great distributor of heat, so your pads won't burn out from scraping against the braking pot a bit every rotation.
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Post by gingel on Aug 24, 2013 2:54:39 GMT -5
[replyingto=prodigit]prodigit[/replyingto]I'll try to loosen the rear brake nut to a point where there is only a slightly resistance when spinning the wheel by hand, and see if that help after a few hundreds miles. Mabye it will level the unevenness. The thing is, these brake shoes already done about 2500 miles. Btw, i think that the rim in my scooter is steel, and only the drum is aluminum. The drum is bolted to the rim with screws, so theoretically you can replace only the drum and not the entire rim. Is there some sort of rubber weatherproofing ring between the wheel and the swingarm that might be catching when you snug the wheel in place? I don't think i have a swingarm. only the exhaust is in the way of the rear wheel. Did u put the spacer back in before the nut ? If not the nut is tightening against the bearings and this will cause resistance. It has a washer between the wheel and the nut. Is that what you meant? The resistance is only when i tightening the rear brake nut, so it must be the brake shoes touching the drum at one point.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 24, 2013 5:07:03 GMT -5
Brake drums regularly get out of round and cause this. You can have a machine shop turn them to true them up if they have warped too badly. If moderate you can leave the shoe dragging a bit but that could take some time to true it up.
On a single swingarm bike there is the possibility that after going through a pothole you have bent the output shaft that the rear wheel mounts on or damaged the dearings which would also make the brakes rub unevenly. Then you would need to replace the output shaft and bearings.
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 24, 2013 5:57:27 GMT -5
The rear brakes last a long time i have 10000 miles on min and still going. After you tigjten the break nut allthe way there is another way you have to adjust them. You can adjust the break arm that your line attaches to . If you don know what im talkin about im sure i can send u some pics.
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Post by gingel on Aug 24, 2013 9:37:57 GMT -5
I'll see if it will be ok in the next few hundreds miles. The bearings of the output shaft looks ok, because i tried to move it to all side and it pretty solid. The rear brakes last a long time i have 10000 miles on min and still going. After you tigjten the break nut allthe way there is another way you have to adjust them. You can adjust the break arm that your line attaches to . If you don know what im talkin about im sure i can send u some pics. Do you mean tightening the drum brake, after you can't turn the nut anymore? Is that recommended? Can you post a picture?
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Post by rockynv on Aug 24, 2013 17:01:43 GMT -5
The rear brakes last a long time i have 10000 miles on min and still going. After you tigjten the break nut allthe way there is another way you have to adjust them. You can adjust the break arm that your line attaches to . If you don know what im talkin about im sure i can send u some pics. That only works if the arm was not installed in the correct position originally as it is a cam type activator that should already be at its highest position once you reach the end of the adjuster. Move the arm after that and you just bypass the highpoint and start releasing the brakes or worse end up with a rear wheel lockup as the cam once pulled past its apex is going to press the break arm against the adjuster and have no pace to go.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 25, 2013 0:30:36 GMT -5
The problem will not be solved after riding 100 miles, but after 100 miles of braking; so yes, it will take long time. Sometimes it helps braking a bit on the aggressive side with the rear brake only, until the brakes settle. Once the brakes settle, they'll be more effective to reduce unevennesses. If they're fairly new, they might need to settle first, before they can actually start scraping off the wheel. I would tighten the nut to where you have difficulty rotating the wheel using one index finger on the tire. If you tighten it too lightly, they might take forever to even it out. If you tighten it too hard, where it becomes difficult to turn the tire, even by hand, you might burn the pads.
Just point at your tire, touch it with the index finger, and with the index finger stretched, try rotating the tire 360 degrees. You're good if you can rotate the tire, and only have a slight difficulty on that spot where the brakes are dragging.
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 26, 2013 5:52:56 GMT -5
I thought my rear drum brakes were bad so i removed my rear wheel an noticed that i had a ton of brake pad left. And this is after tightening the rear brake nut over 2 seasons and i ha no room left. So i noticed you can adjust the arm also i moved the arm back a couple notches and now the nut is back the way it was 2 yrs ago . My pads were only aboit 1/3 worn. There really isnt any other way the brakes should hav been installed ? Im gonna hav to adjust them again when i run out of tightening the nut. The brake line isnt long enough to run through the entire brake pads without adjusting the arm.
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 26, 2013 6:03:49 GMT -5
I will post a pic about adjusting the arm. These drum brakes are made so u hav to adjust the arm to get the full use out of your brake pads. Its always good to make sure you still hav pad left before adjusting th arm just to b safe. I wasnt even close to rotating the inner tension paddle past the apex. Like i said these at least most o these china scoots are made so you have to adjust the arm. Let me know if u need a pic
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Post by prodigit on Aug 26, 2013 12:13:51 GMT -5
Isn't there an additional adjustment within the drum brake to push the pads away of each other?
I mean, on cars there is, I just never took the time to look at my chinese scoots. For that very reason you mention, I try to brake as least as possible with the drum brakes, and try to brake with the front disc brake, because disc brake pads cost less, and are easier to replace!
During my riding I only brake with the front brake, unless I need emergency braking, then I'll add the rear brake to my braking, or if I need to brake in a corner, I only brake gently with the front, and more with the rear. I've almost had an accident once, on a scoot braking with the front, while cornering (yeah, sometimes you ain't got no chance to straighten the bike, before applying the front brake), and I'll just say, I'll never do it again! At least not hard braking.
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