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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 17:16:19 GMT -5
look at these wires are they supposed to match each plug how they go in for example if black n red is always to the left should black and red be the same way on the fuse box
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Post by JR on Jun 30, 2013 19:31:17 GMT -5
I tried to edit this picture but can't on my tablet. This is my fuse box. The two wires on the left are the hot wires that the tester lights up when the key is off and no power. When I turn the key on then shut it off and pull it out you all know the power stays on till I hit the start button. So after the key is out the red stays hot. Those two wires are hot. The black wire on the ignition plug lights the tester dim as does the two wires 2nd to the left. OK I've got a idea and I need you to do some tests and answer a question. First of all the blue wire in the top corner is it a two colored wire? Your picture is unclear, is it blue/ Now I want you to do the following and record what you find on each thing here. I'm almost positive I've got the power hook up figured out and I just need you to verify it. Take all the fuses out including the 20A fuse on the starter relay all of them. Then take your test light and check to see if you have power on the red wire to the fuse box AND the red wire to the key switch with the key switch UNPLUGGED. After that put the 20A fuse back in the starter relay and do the same test see if you have power to the red wire on the fuse box and the key switch with the switch unplugged. Remember only put the 20A fuse back in leave the rest out. Now after that test I want you to plug the key switch back in and leave the 20A fuse in on the starter relay. Now I want you to turn the key on and then go test the black wire on the fuse box for power the bottom black wire right across the blue/ wire with ALL the fuses out of the fuse box. Now if you have power on the black wire I indicated with the key on then do this next with the key still on: Put the fuse in the socket with the green/white wire and hit your horn and see if it works. If it does then great, if it doesn't and the speedo and such still acts whacky then pull this fuse. Next put the fuse in on the socket that has the black/brown wire and see if your headlights work, if so then great if not then unplug that fuse. Lastly put fuse in the blue/ socket and see if you blinkers work? Now if the horn works fine leave the fuse, go to the black/brown socket and if that works then go to the last blue/ socket. If any one of them makes the scooter act whacky then leave it out and make note which one it was. This will tell us several things. First if both read wires are hot with the 20A fuse in then that means the red wire splits from the 20A fuse on the starter relay and one side feed the key switch and the other feeds ? but I think I know what it does feed. Also by the fuse box picture you posted the black wire on the bottom right across from the blue/ wire should be the black wire from the key switch and should be hot when the key is on. Now as you can see if this is so then it is looped to the next two circuits the horn and the lights. The last circuit of red to black is a totally separate circuit and DOES NOT come from the key switch. I know this is a lot but if you can do this step by step like I asked it will let us know what goes to what AND it possibly could give us a lead as to what circuit is causing your scooter to act crazy. JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 19:51:50 GMT -5
Ok.. I will do those test.. the blue wire I believe is blue/black.. Im color blind.. it might be blue/brown.... But you saying about putting the fuses in... The first one with the green/white is a 5 amp that is for the fuel/starter/charger... The other one the blue/black ?? is for the FAN... Are you sure these are the ones you want me to put in???
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 30, 2013 20:04:39 GMT -5
To me if you look on the first pic you put up the BLUE wire is BLUE AND RED. Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Jun 30, 2013 21:16:51 GMT -5
Yes pull all the fuses like I said, check the reds to see if they are hot or not, re-install 20A fuse in starter solenoid relay then see if the reds are hot, plug in key switch and turn on, then check the black which is right across the blue/red (thanks Alley) to see if it has voltage. Then re-install each fuse one at a time to see if any of your functions work. The first one and according to the diagram is green/white and it goes to the horn. The black/brown is headlights. The blue/red should be blinkers. Leave the fuse with the red to black wire out when doing these tests. Read my directions again. Justguy1 you took a good picture of the back of the fuse block and it's easy to read the set up. JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 21:25:43 GMT -5
Ok.. so here are my findings... My neighbors think im crazy for being in the garage this late... Ok here we go..
All fuses out... Got nothing.. Nothing lights up with the tester...no red light no power anything..
Put 20amp back in and the red wire lights up on both the fuse box and the ignition plug (unplugged)
Key on with 20amp in.. on the fuse box.. black across from blue/?? lights up as does the RED one on the fuse box.. FYI.. on the ignition Red, Black and Blue/Blk all lit up..
With Gr/white fuse in... Got NOTHING.... same stuff above lit up.. No horn, no electrical power at all.. Now keep in mind on the fuse box that one is labeled Fuel/Charge/Starter... and is 5amps...
fuse in Brown/Black. Blinkers come on with a crazy noise.. however they are OPPOSITE... left blinker works right, right blinker works left.... Horn does no sound.. just makes the blinker and dash blink.. The dash lights however do light up. small head light works no main headlights..
put fuse in blue/?? (with black in corner) nothing.. no power at all electrical.. 5 amp fuse labeled as FAN...
Put 10amp fuse in red and blue/brown (i think) labeled Head ... nothing.. no electrical.. not even the headlights... However with the tester.. THE red and blue/brown light up.. so power is going to the fuse..
put all 4 fuses in.. with key on.. shows power with tester.. they all light up.. still same thing nothing working.. same reaction as we first started...
lastly, shut key off.. headlight comes on.. and odometer.. tested ignition.. red, black, blu/blk all test light comes on.. as does the red blue/br light up too.. when you hit the starter button and the power goes off.. ONLY the Red on the ignition lights and so does the two on the fuse. red , blue/brw..
Well there is everything....... Now where do we go..
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Post by JR on Jun 30, 2013 22:20:47 GMT -5
All fuses out... Got nothing.. Nothing lights up with the tester...no red light no power anything..
Put 20amp back in and the red wire lights up on both the fuse box and the ignition plug (unplugged)
Key on with 20amp in.. on the fuse box.. black across from blue/?? lights up as does the RED one on the fuse box.. FYI.. on the ignition Red, Black and Blue/Blk all lit up..
OK this tells me I'm headed in the right direction and the wiring diagram I have is right.
This also tells me there is nothing wrong with your key switch, reason I know this? With all the fuses out except the 20A one in the starter relay that feeds both red wires and the key on it is passing power to the black wire to the fuse box on the where I said it would. I haven't looked about the blue/black yet.
If you look at the black wire on the fuse box across from the blue/red you will see that it is jumped to the next two circuits or fuses in the fuse box. One has the green/white wire and the other is black/brown. I know your fuse box cover labels things but the diagram sometimes will label things another way and according to the diagram there are several things running off of the G/W including the horn. The black/brown goes to the headlights according to the diagram.
This also tells me that the fused 20A red wire from the starter relay is split and one heads to the key switch and the other to the fuse box and feeds a separate circuit and is not connected to the key switch in any way.
I need to know what this color the wire across from the red in the fuse box really is and then I can find where it goes.
Also at this point it now appears that your problems lie past the fuse box. It's not a direct short because if it was then it would be blowing fuses.
Also let me ask you this, when you started putting the fuses back in one by one did you leave other fuses in? Like when you put the fuse in the G/W socket and then moved on to the next fuse did you leave the fuse in on the G/W socket?
Because what I wanted you to do is put one in at a time and then remove it before you tried the next one.
We have made some progress.
JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 22:46:48 GMT -5
I follow what you wrote.. The fuses were put in one at a time by them selves..
The wire across from the RED wire is BLUE/ and either red or brown.. im color blind can't tell.
Your saying that it may be mislabeled but how was it working before this all happened?? Im confused now.. what else is new right??
Just so you know.. this is how its labeled.
HEAD ----- 10 Amps
Turn, Horn, Tail, Headlights-- 10 amps
Fuel/starter/Charge ----5 amps
Fan-- 5 amps...
What I don't get is I have tail lights and brake lights...
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Post by JR on Jun 30, 2013 22:51:29 GMT -5
OK let me work with that color for a minute and I'll get back and that is valuable information, makes the puzzle come together a little more.
Didn't mean to say mislabeled but rather the horn is with other things on the same fuse and since you gave me the exact labels to each fuse that helps a lot.
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Post by JR on Jul 1, 2013 0:33:26 GMT -5
OK here is what I got form the diagram and from your label description and it all adds up to the typical circuit layout. Starting on the bottom from right to left: Black from key switch is hot with key on Next two circuits jumped to go with Black from Key switch, also hot with key on Red is from 20A fuse on starter relay and is hot all the time unless fuse is pulled or blown Now lets match them up color to color. First Black wire to Blue/Red is cooling fan Next Black wire is to White/Green and goes to horn, brake lights and starter relay combined when brake pedal/lever is pushed. That's the one labeled "starter" Next Black wire is to Black/Brown and goes to Fuel and temp gauges, Turn signals and the headlight passing switch. This switch when pressed brightens the hi beam side of the headlight which is used to pass someone, at least that's the idea? Last is the Red wire going to the Blue/Brown and that is the headlights and tail lights. (You can verify the tail lights part by pulling this fuse, if they go out then bingo) The one label you have called "charge" would indicate a charging meter or indicator? On my diagram it shows none? So now where are we at and here's what we know; Key switch is good and passing power to the fuse box correctly. Tail lights brake lights work and the scooter will start. Rest of the electrical system is whacko. I can't find the blue/black wire on the diagram that is on the key switch but I suspect it goes to the radio/MP3 player or is an accessory wire for add ons? So you ask the question, why the tail lights and no headlights. My answer is one of two things. The tail lights is the same on/off switch as the headlights but you can have them on and the headlights off just like in a automobile according to the diagram. Now I know you're pushing the switch for both to be on so here is the list of possibilities of why no headlights Switch is bad Switch is installed incorrectly ( did you ever replace this switch) Headlight wire from switch to the dimmer switch is broke Dimmer switch is bad Bad ground Now you have brake lights and it will start which is on the same circuit as the horn and it won't work, here is the list of possibilities: Wire from fuse box running to the horn is broke or no longer tied to the G/W wire from the fuse box Bad horn switch Bad horn Bad ground NO turn signals which I'll ask a question, does the fuel gauge work or move, same with the temp gauge? The passing light have you tried it? It should light up the high beam side with just the key on? If all these functions don't work then it's a: Blown fuse Broke wire feeding all these functions from the fuse box Bad ground to all of them If they all work except the turn signals then it's got to be one of these: Bad turn signal flasher Bad turn signal switch Broke wire tying into this circuit from the fuse box Bad Ground Now as you can see you have lots of possibilities and on every single one there is a common thing, "bad ground" I'll ask this again, did you check the ground cable off of the battery where it hooks up to the frame and any wires attached there. It is very common for the grounding wire in a harness to be divided into sections and one area like the back part (tail and brake lights) work and the front area not simply because the ground wire heading to one section is broke or making a very poor ground. It's common to see your problem associated with a very bad ground. I would not want to take this scooter to a shop and pay out the wasooo and have one bad ground wire be the problem. Lastly there still exists the possibility of a clump of wires in the harness for whatever reason being fused or melted together? Now I would check the grounds, can't get to them because of removing the plastic? That's your choice but you're not going to find this gremlin without exposing the circuitry, no way out of it. JR
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Post by JR on Jul 1, 2013 0:34:31 GMT -5
[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]Wrong diagram Alley, we got the Fashion diagram at Professor.
JR
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 1, 2013 1:00:53 GMT -5
Maybe when you took the NEG CABLE off the battery and pulled it to where you hooked up the CUT OFF switch a Ground Wire was pulled away from ground. Look for any Green wire or wires hanging loose from the cut off switch back to the battery. Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Jul 1, 2013 7:50:06 GMT -5
Good Idea and my thought also Alley. Justguy1 I'm sincerely not trying to sound rude or harsh. You have went through a lot of frustration and for sure you don't need that and for sure one has got to give you an A+ for effort here and not throwing in the towel. For any person who has this scooter or one similar to read all of this they will gain a lot of knowledge to say the least.
But at this point we have learned what is not wrong, part of the process of eliminating things that could be wrong. Your last pictures are very helpful and now the only way to go forward is to have eyes to the areas of the wiring.
And what makes any person think about some possibilities being the thing that is wrong is the fact that before you started the disconnect switch the scooter was fine, now it isn't. And if you did do something that has caused this then it was for sure by accident and it's one of the things that we are trying to find and the ground wiring is the most likely culprit simply because you were working on the ground side only when installing this switch a time back.
It's very frustrating also when one doesn't see how they could have done anything by simply working on one thing and it causing these kind of problems but it happens. I had a friend once almost go nuts himself because his tail lights weren't working after he pulled and cleaned the carb. His first statement was "I wasn't messing with any wires, just the carb!"
Come to find out after a long day of us going through this and that his culprit was a pulled ground wire in the harness plug where the back tail light section plugged in. It didn't pull all the way out of the plug but just enough to lose connection and the lights. He pulled the plug apart 3 or 4 times before he spotted this one wire, again happened while he was working on the carb.
Like I told you we won't give up if you don't sooner or later we'll find this gremlin but you got to get to the circuitry.
JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jul 1, 2013 8:04:49 GMT -5
Didn't get a chance to read everything.... Will at work.... But one quick thing that I did read.. My tail lights and head lights are on TWO different switches.. .ONE in on the LEFT handle bar, and the other on the right....
Left handle bar cluster.... Headlights, (hi/low), horn, blinkers
Right Handle bar cluster.... Brake Cylinder, Tail lights, starter button, On/Off kill switch..
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Post by JR on Jul 1, 2013 9:52:29 GMT -5
OK that makes sense and for sure explains the tail lights working and the headlights not. Your handle bar cluster description of the switches is typical. Like I said sometimes the Chinese diagrams is an adventure to figure out and the way they draw it indicates one can turn on the tail lights then push the switch to the position of having them both on but it doesn't matter we know which is working and this tells me another thing also. The blue/brown wire across from the red wire in the fuse box splits, one side going to the headlights and the other to the tail lights.
I would like for you to pull the fuse on the red to blue/brown and see if indeed you have no tail lights when doing so. If this is the case then it's pointing more and more to a bad or broke ground and again the reason I believe this is because the harness's almost nearly every time are split into sections with one central hook up point and that's generally the frame where the negative battery cable connects. The ground could be ok in the tail light section and be off in the front section and this is where everything is whacko. We know your ground is green and I've seen as many as 4 ground wires hooked up to the frame on a scooter. It is also common for the ground wires to be put together in the harness, go to multiple locations and the Chinese generally use cheap brass crimp connectors to put them together, very easy for a wire to come loose sometimes. Without a ground things will act crazy.
But if it isn't a grounding issue then my next thing to say it is would be the fused or melted wires of these functions some where in the harness.
I'm sure you'll get back on this when you get off work.
JR
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