08 Moto Fashion.. no blinkers, horn, headlights  By  justguy1 (Read 10,586 times)

I understand your frustration and this is not a choosing sides thing. I want to see you get to ride your scooter and put this behind you.

What I am saying with a problem like this is when you get so many people trying to tell you this and that it becomes very confusing and IMO you're confused enough.

Believe it or not the electrical systems are not complicated but some have different ways of how things work while others all go by the same system. This scooter is easy to understand if you know about these things.

But what is also frustrating to a person who can help you no matter who is helping is for them to start telling someone what to check and/or try this and another with a different idea says do this or do that. All opinions and ideas are great and welcomed but as I said before one can have too many cooks in the kitchen.

So my suggestion is for you to decide who/what is the easiest to understand path for you and go with that course of action. That way IMO it's easier for you and the person who is trying to walk you through this to find out what is wrong.

Believe it or not at least 80% of the functions on a scooter's electrical system can be tested without a meter of any kind and the rest can be done with the simple test light you purchased. As a certified electrician I know this.

I'll say this again you have been given incorrect advice and that's not a opinion but a fact and if you want to work with the people/person who has/is giving you this advice then that's ok and your choice.

If you want to try things here then that's ok too but again going back and forth and hoping for a easy quick fix with all the problems you've described isn't going to happen.

Trouble shooting electrical like a lot of things is a step by step process of elimination, check one thing and if that's not it move to the next. Different people have different ways of doing it if you can/want to buy you a meter, add learning how to use one and go with others way of doing it then great and we'll cheer ya on.

If you want to try it my way I'll be here and I'm on and off generally every day.

JR

[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]Hey Alley, no the disconnect swith is NOT off when this is all happening.. the switch is ON.. IF I turn it off there is NO POWER To anything..

Thanks for the clarification on the key on the disconnect switch and by your previous statements I do believe you have it correctly wired now so with that said here is what I would like to do and this will at least tell me a few things to look for.


Yes I want you to totally unplug the scooter key switch not your new disconnect switch, I want the key switch out of the equation.

Also turn your new disconnect switch to the off position, I do not want any power on while you are jumping the plug.

I know there was confusion on the main cables going to the starter solenoid, I want you to be sure of two things, don't care what color wires they are although the main cables are generally red. Make sure the terminal/post on the solenoid marked "B" goes to the + positive battery post. Make sure the terminal/post marked "M" on the solenoid relay goes to the starter terminal/post. NOT TO GROUND -

As I stated before with the key switch plugged into the other half of the socket take a magic marker and mark the black and red wire on the plug, reason for this? Simple I can't in your picture see the other plug and know that the wires are matched apples for apples as far as the colors, if they are then forget marking them. If the other plug matches up to the key switch plug black to black and red to red then good. Sometimes the Chinese will change colors even on plugs that plug into each other.

Now if the other plug is female then you won't be able to put even a small alligator clip in it, no big deal. Take a short piece of say 14ga or any size copper wire that with each end peeled off a bit will just slide into the female socket and make a good connection, remember this is only temporary and for testing only. Again make sure this jumper goes from the black wire to the red wire. Just make sure your jumper cannot touch anything that would ground it out.

Now after you do this I want you to turn on your new main disconnect switch which will immediately complete the circuit thus giving the scooter power to the system. Remember you have the key switch disconnected, it's out of the picture at this moment, dead not in use.

Now by manually jumping the red to black we are now supplying DC power down the black wire which feeds a lot of stuff on this scooter through fuses also.

Check one thing at a time in this order and make a note if one works properly or doesn't at all.

Brake lights, push both brake handles one at a time and see if the brake light comes on, make note if it does on one brake handle and doesn't on the other.

If the brake light lights up then with the brake handle pressed just bump the start button, don't try to start the scooter, I just want to see if it will turn over. Take note if it will or won't.


Now try the horn.

Next try the turn signals.


Now according to the diagrams this scooter comes in two different setups? One is where you can turn the head/tail lights on with just the key on and with a switch. The other is where the head/tail are on only when the engfine is running. If this is the case then we will wait to see if they are OK when we do start the scooter.

Do these things as I stated and take a note of what you find and get back.

JR

Sorry on the brake pedal, my bad but I do want you to try the one brake handle also, according to the diagram the pedal and the one brake handle will turn on the brake lights.

Also I requested when you press the brake handle or pedal in this case and I wanted you to just bump the starter button and tell me if the engine will turn over or the starter engages.

Reason I want to know this is because I want to see if the starter solenoid relay is still good. If you press the pedal or brake handle and bump the starter button and you hear the starter engage then we have eliminated one thing in this equation. If it makes no sound at all then we know we have one item that is bad. Remember that the brakes and the starter solenoid run off of the same yellow/red wire and now that I know you have brake lights if you bump the start button I'll know about the relay when you report your findings.

After you do this step do the following:

Again turn off your new main disconnect switch

Leave your jumper that you installed to the red and black wires on the plug that you unplugged from the key switch and yes DO NOT plug the key switch in, leave it unhooked.

Now this may be a little tricky but I want you to put another jumper wire in the same plug that you have the current one in from the red to black.

I want you to run a jumper from the red to the blue/black wire AND leave the red to black hooked up at the same time. It may be a little tight in the red plug but you can do it. Again make sure the wires are not touching anything when you do this.

Again forget about the key switch, leave it unplugged.

Now as soon as you get these jumpers hooked up turn your new main disconnect switch back on and check to see if you have a horn, blinkers, etc.

Please do the starter test before you add the new jumper and record your findings.

I'll wait for your results.

JR

PS.. One thing I wanted to ask.. Why is it that with the key out... I can press the STARTER switch (button) and it shuts the power off..

I'm presuming you mean when you have the key switch plugged in to the plug. We presently have the key switch unplugged and now when you hit the start button that doesn't happen?

When you pull the key out of the switch which I have no doubt is fried the start circuit is grounding out when you hit the start button.

Now at least we know your solenoid starter relay is good. So if I remember right you said you have a test light? Is it one that has two wires or is the type with one wire with say a alligator clip on it and a point on the other which you use to touch wires/connections with? I'm just wanting to know this, if you're unsure put up a picture.

I know it doesn't sound like we've done anything but actually we have and now I can take you to the next step but I do have to have you use your tester for this.

With the jumpers in we are now sending power down the wires to places that we need it to. With the key switch plugged in we were not doing that, again fried key switch.

I'm going to look at the diagram and make a list of things to test so we can move forward.

Also I know you have stated that the fuses are good. I'll ask you this question, is that assumption by you just looking at them? Reason I ask is fuses especially Chinese fuses can look good and be bad. Of course the true way to know is by ohming them or replacing them with new ones that for sure should be good. It's a real pain to do a lot of testing when all along it was a simple fuse.

Since I'm certain that you crossed the positive and negative together when installing the battery disconnect switch when this happened it should have blown the fuses which is your first line of defense when a thing like this happens which is the same thing as a direct short. If you're not absolutely sure the fuses are good replace them.

I'll get back later.

JR

I still say it is his Ignition switch that is toast, said that when he said he has power key on or key off.
Alleyoop
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