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Post by justguy1 on Jun 28, 2013 20:42:17 GMT -5
Sorry I double posted.. didn't know the first one posted.. thought it was deleted....
OK so to recap everything.... I do NOT Have everything stripped down.. was hoping that wouldn't be the case....
so here is where we are.
KEY ON---- Scooter starts,Radio on, no blinkers, no horn, (scooter has two head lights one small one big) the small one lights up, odometer on, dash lights out...
KEY OFF--- Scooter off, radio off, odometer stays lit, big head light ON, small one off, push Horn speedodometer goes crazy, push blinkers, odometer goes bright and dim.
Hit STARTER button ALL POWER GOES OFF....
here is a video.. just in case you haven't seen it.. shows everything
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 21:13:47 GMT -5
Sorry I double posted.. didn't know the first one posted.. thought it was deleted.... OK so to recap everything.... I do NOT Have everything stripped down.. was hoping that wouldn't be the case.... so here is where we are. KEY ON---- Scooter starts,Radio on, no blinkers, no horn, (scooter has two head lights one small one big) the small one lights up, odometer on, dash lights out... KEY OFF--- Scooter off, radio off, odometer stays lit, big head light ON, small one off, push Horn speedodometer goes crazy, push blinkers, odometer goes bright and dim. Hit STARTER button ALL POWER GOES OFF.... here is a video.. just in case you haven't seen it.. shows everything OK justguy1 thanks a lot for the video, it really helped me understand more clearly what is happening to your scooter. Now I'm like you I hate stripping a scooter but in this case we have got to get to the electrical up front. We for sure have something fused/melted/arced/etc. together. I've got a idea but at this point even if I'm right you still got to open her up. Now I only got a slight glimpse of the headlight in your video but it appeared as a small bulb and not the main headlight bulb? A lot of scooters have what is called side running lights by the main headlight bulbs and a lot of times they are wired separately from the head light bulbs. If you've never stripped her I would advise taking pictures as you go and putting nuts, bolts, etc. in containers and labeling them, helps when it goes back together. Now you've got her back to original and the disconnect switch is no issue so let's move on and I'll promise you one thing I'll not give up so don't you, if need be we'll get on the phone and work this out. Take your time as you take it apart and pay close attention to the harness and look for any sign of damage or where it may have got hot. When you get her stripped holler back. JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 28, 2013 21:35:08 GMT -5
[replyingto=jr]JR[/replyingto]hey im glad you posted that picture of the solenoid.....
I can tell you this.. I took my tester... and alligator clipped the NEGATIVE terminal.... and touched ALL 4 of those wires... The G/W, R/Y, R and R/W.. The only two that lit up where the R and the R/W the other two did not light up...
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Post by JR on Jun 28, 2013 23:08:43 GMT -5
hey im glad you posted that picture of the solenoid..... I can tell you this.. I took my tester... and alligator clipped the NEGATIVE terminal.... and touched ALL 4 of those wires... The G/W, R/Y, R and R/W.. The only two that lit up where the R and the R/W the other two did not light up... This would be a correct test. The R and R/W are hot and if you pull the fuse the R/W will be dead too. The G/W is a ground wire from the side stand switch and is grounded only when the scooter is on the stand. The R/Y is hot only when you press the brake pedal and/or brake handle, the same wire that goes to your brake lights. This tells us that the solenoid and the wires to it are all OK. Through all of this we have made some progress, just like I mentioned above the solenoid and it's wires are all ok. We also now know even with bypassing the key switch which is what we did by using the jumper wires that the key switch is more than likely good, same results as the jumpers. Also by learning that the tail lights work it sends us in the direction of the front part of the harness and gives us a starting point. But now we've got to open her up to start finding this problem. JR
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Post by JR on Jun 29, 2013 8:36:48 GMT -5
I've cleaned this thread up to get back on track to help Justguy1 to solve this issue. When he gets it opened up I'm sure we'll find the problem.
JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 29, 2013 18:52:00 GMT -5
[replyingto=jr]JR[/replyingto]OK almost gave up. I can't get my side panel off so this picture will have to do.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 29, 2013 19:12:12 GMT -5
CHeck for wire looking like this one it looks burnt. Alleyoop
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 29, 2013 20:05:38 GMT -5
Not sure if you read my other reply... that wire isn't burnt.. must of been the way the picture was taken..( dont have a flash with my tablet).
But did find something out tonight... I went to check the fuses and swapped them out just in case.. But nothing changed.... Now here is the kicker.... I take the 10 amp fuse that says head out.. The blinkers kinda work.. the lights go on.. but real faint noise.. the dash comes on.. NO HORN still.. If I press the start button. depending on what blinker is on... when you press the start button. the OPPOSITE blinker lights up.. ie left blinker on.. push start right blinker lights up.. If I put the Head one back in and take the other 10 amp out that is for the blinkers, horn, tail lights and high beam.. then the Head light goes on... but still nothing else works... So not sure where we go from here...
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Post by JR on Jun 30, 2013 7:10:53 GMT -5
So not sure where we go from here...
Start with checking the fuse box holder where all the fuses go in. Look at each socket and make sure the fuse/s are making good contact.
Start tracing the wires from the fuse box, you may have to unwrap the tape or covering off of them.
Up where you have exposed the wires in your picture you are going to have to do the same thing, start unwrapping and tracing wires.
Also you need to unbolt the solenoid relay under the seat and inspect the wiring going to it to make sure any wires haven't fused or melted together.
Lastly in your picture there are two female plugs with nothing plugged into either one, can you tell me anything about those?
JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 9:32:39 GMT -5
One is the radio.. the other is the ignition plug..
I will try to trace the wires.. guess it means taking more things off.. hope this works..
Do you know what wire is the ground wire for the blinkers, horn etc...
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Post by crawdad on Jun 30, 2013 11:49:12 GMT -5
Hey Justguy1 - After watching 6 pages of advice,did you ever get your scoot running?? I think you have left everybody sitting on edge wandering if you were successful , I know I am still waiting for the end !!!
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 12:18:06 GMT -5
12 pages between this site and another one. And to answer your question NO... The scooter runs just some of the electrical stuff is out. And at this point the writing is on the wall. Yeah might cost me a lot of money but this has cost me two months of frustration and aggravation.
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Post by JR on Jun 30, 2013 12:39:04 GMT -5
One is the radio.. the other is the ignition plug.. I will try to trace the wires.. guess it means taking more things off.. hope this works.. Do you know what wire is the ground wire for the blinkers, horn etc... Green is the ground for everything on this scooter. Your key switch plug has a green also. From the battery to the frame the negative battery cable is almost always black. That also reminds me, in all the things I've read I don't remember anyone advising your to check the ground to the frame as far as if it's tight, free from rust and/or paint and making a good solid connection. Usually where the black battery cable bolts on the frame these is a small ground wire that goes throughout the harness to supply the ground to things, even sometimes there are more than one ground wire. It's just another thing that needs to be checked out because a poor ground can make things act crazy too. Another thought I just had was the fact that you did install the battery disconnect switch to the cable to the frame and it may have been borderline when you installed the switch and now it's not grounding well at all simply because it was disturbed slightly when you put the switch in? I know you took the switch out but it's worth looking at and will cause no harm if it's ok. JR
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 15:32:32 GMT -5
Another question for you is the black blue wire supposed to have power when the key is off. When I did a voltage test with the key off the red wire had 12 volts the black wire had zero with a negative the green had zero with a negative the black white wire type 0 with a negative but the blue black wire had 00.1 this was at the ignition plug. also question for you at the fuse box is the headlight power on without the key because the fuse lit up with the tester.
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 30, 2013 17:00:02 GMT -5
I tried to edit this picture but can't on my tablet. This is my fuse box. The two wires on the left are the hot wires that the tester lights up when the key is off and no power. When I turn the key on then shut it off and pull it out you all know the power stays on till I hit the start button. So after the key is out the red stays hot. Those two wires are hot. The black wire on the ignition plug lights the tester dim as does the two wires 2nd to the left.
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