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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 14, 2013 2:41:59 GMT -5
Really?.... What about all the nice iron and steel parts inside? I'm tempted to break out the magnet and sweep it over my scoot's engine---- it's in pieces, except the final transmission. Not sure what's made of what. |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 2:48:27 GMT -5
The some of the edges of the iron piston rings, and perhaps most smaller bits of bearings come off in the first 50km. After that, the piston rings (steel) kind of scrape off the cylinder walls (aluminum), and very minor steel parts from the bearings will mix in the oil, but not much.
the ratio steel/other debris is really low (say 1 part steel, 100 parts aluminum, or so).
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Post by ej132 on Jun 14, 2013 7:56:10 GMT -5
It would be very interesting if someone got oil analysis done on their oil one with Dino then synthetic oil, or two scoots with similar miles and setups.
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Post by spandi on Jun 14, 2013 9:30:40 GMT -5
The some of the edges of the iron piston rings, and perhaps most smaller bits of bearings come off in the first 50km. After that, the piston rings (steel) kind of scrape off the cylinder walls (aluminum), and very minor steel parts from the bearings will mix in the oil, but not much. the ratio steel/other debris is really low (say 1 part steel, 100 parts aluminum, or so). An aluminum cylinder wouldn't last very long, I think you'll find the GY6 has an iron cylinder sleeve. |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 13:52:36 GMT -5
I thought the whole cylinder block is aluminum?
Didn't know the chinese layered them.
If it is steel, then no wonder these engines last so long!
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Post by toxictom on Jun 14, 2013 14:08:18 GMT -5
I discovered the oil is coming out of the fuel filter I use instead of a catch can on the vent hose from the valve cover. It does seem like I'm getting more blow-by with the synthetic oil. I only have a 6-8" piece of hose from the vent on the valve cover to the filter. I will lengthen that a few more inches and secure it a little higher up so the oil flows back into the head to see if that slows it down. One of these days I'll build one of those fancy oil catch cans.
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Post by spandi on Jun 14, 2013 14:36:22 GMT -5
Like this.  |
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Post by spandi on Jun 14, 2013 14:38:30 GMT -5
I discovered the oil is coming out of the fuel filter I use instead of a catch can on the vent hose from the valve cover. It does seem like I'm getting more blow-by with the synthetic oil. I only have a 6-8" piece of hose from the vent on the valve cover to the filter. I will lengthen that a few more inches and secure it a little higher up so the oil flows back into the head to see if that slows it down. One of these days I'll build one of those fancy oil catch cans. I put in a catch tank. (It wasn't all that difficult.) With a little help from the late great Bluefront. scootdawg.proboards.com/thread/35046 |
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Post by Moat on Jun 14, 2013 17:19:43 GMT -5
I'd never put all synthetic oil in an aluminum block engine! Way too expensive! We're talking ALL synthetic? That's ~$50-60/gal, compared to regular synthetic (semi-synthetic) going over the counter for $20/gal? Aluminum block engines are not worth that. Magnetic oil filter is useless on an aluminum block engine, as the majority of the particles (99% of the metallic particles) are aluminum, which is non-magnetic; and the other major pollutant in oil is carbon, which also is non-magnetic.  |
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Post by spandi on Jun 14, 2013 17:52:01 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 14, 2013 18:38:35 GMT -5
R u sure u didnt over fill? It really shouldnt matter if u use syntheti you shouldnt be blowing out a bunch of oil.
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Post by kingkaymo on Jun 15, 2013 2:13:18 GMT -5
some people shouldnt give advice... synthetic oil is better period. yes more expensive but how many quarts does your engine hold anyway? worth the extra protection on these tiny motors that are probably built from lower grade metal to begin with...
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2013 3:09:53 GMT -5
Yeah i think its kinda funny to say its to expensive when all you usually need is a quart. I know what its like to be short on cash and im still able to afford th maintanence using synthetics. Thats in the gear box also.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 15, 2013 5:32:02 GMT -5
The some of the edges of the iron piston rings, and perhaps most smaller bits of bearings come off in the first 50km. After that, the piston rings (steel) kind of scrape off the cylinder walls (aluminum), and very minor steel parts from the bearings will mix in the oil, but not much. the ratio steel/other debris is really low (say 1 part steel, 100 parts aluminum, or so). An aluminum cylinder wouldn't last very long, I think you'll find the GY6 has an iron cylinder sleeve. GY6 has a sleeve it is not aluminum with a silicon ceramic blending like a Briggs Kool Bore. |
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Post by rockynv on Jun 15, 2013 5:51:00 GMT -5
some people shouldnt give advice... synthetic oil is better period. yes more expensive but how many quarts does your engine hold anyway? worth the extra protection on these tiny motors that are probably built from lower grade metal to begin with... A synthetic oil in a GY6 since there is no oil filter still has to be changed every 500 miles so it is an exponential cost. You let it run longer with no filtration and you loose all the benifits due to all the suspended particles from combustion byproducts and wear so for the most part it is a waist of money and can do more harm than good. Sythetic oil in a crankcase is only of real benefit when there is a full flow filtration system in place which a GY6 simply does not have. I commute daily and had to change the oil in my GY6 monthly which using good motorcycle/scooter rated synthetic would cost $10 to $12 a quart or $120 to $142 a year compared to $12 to $20 for regular oil. More important is to use a motorcycle or scooter rated oil that is more resistant to foaming and has the higher rpm additives along with additives to prevent coking when the oil passes hot spots that air cooled engines are prone to. The GY6 is a wet sump engine which when leaning in turns will be more susceptable to foaming then many of the other dry sump bikes. Many who use synthetic oil make the mistake if using one rated for automotive engines which run cooler and at lower rpm's than an air cooled scooter engine. No real benefit and can cost you an extra $120 to $130 a year. |
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