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Post by w650 on Jun 12, 2017 4:50:23 GMT -5
If I replaced tires that often the cost would be a little expensive. I'll replace a tire if it's dry rotted but not because it's three years old. Tires these days are ridiculously short lived already. Nothing lasts over 10,000 miles any more which is a major shortcoming to me. Since they won't live that long anyway plugging makes total sense to me. Especially since anecdotal evidence of plugged tires failing is fairly non-existent. As I said. Not riding at all is best since a flat can happen at anytime. I'm also saying if a tire is plugged then be aware of that and don't ride at top speed anymore.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 12, 2017 12:08:23 GMT -5
If I replaced tires that often the cost would be a little expensive. I'll replace a tire if it's dry rotted but not because it's three years old. Tires these days are ridiculously short lived already. Nothing lasts over 10,000 miles any more which is a major shortcoming to me. Since they won't live that long anyway plugging makes total sense to me. Especially since anecdotal evidence of plugged tires failing is fairly non-existent. As I said. Not riding at all is best since a flat can happen at anytime. I'm also saying if a tire is plugged then be aware of that and don't ride at top speed anymore. I suppose that you do not ride much then three years may seem excessive but that is only a bit more than 3,300 miles a year to wear out a 10,000 mile tire. On a high use year 10,000 miles only sees me through 9 months of riding while on light years it will still only make it a bit less than 2 years. For many scooter riders tire costs will be less than $40 a set. Most people spend more than that every month on things like smokes, pizza or beer and many times the cost of a set of tires on their Netflix or Cell Phone/Texting over the course of a few months. You can greatly minimize your chances of picking up a nail by not tailgating or riding in the gutters. Nails tend to roll away from the crown nearer the middle of the road so those who drive defensively and avoid the more nail prone sides and gutters can go many years without having those issues. If any of us had a dollar for each time an acquaintance lamented their plugged tire still had a slow leak we'd all have a nice little Mad Money jar going. It happens much more often than we like to admit and is hardly an anecdotal or comedic flight of fancy made up type event.
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Post by cyborg55 on Jun 12, 2017 13:06:23 GMT -5
Geepers
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Post by floridagull on Jun 12, 2017 17:23:42 GMT -5
Plug still lasting fine - still holding air - all is well... This was not a DIY plug, but done by my friendly neighborhood real tire store...
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Post by rockynv on Jun 12, 2017 21:12:40 GMT -5
Plug still lasting fine - still holding air - all is well... This was not a DIY plug, but done by my friendly neighborhood real tire store... Yep and hopefully they did it by the book from the inside of the tire. Here is how a proper repair is done. Anything less and you have every right to sue the shop for reckless endangerment with every expectation of receiving compensation. A shop caught doing anything less can stand a very good chance of loosing their business license and even if they don't loose their license to do business can loose their franchise to sell the major brands or have their liability insurance drop them. No major tire manufacturer wants to chance a bad shop tarnishing their reputation by doing slipshod repairs. Anyways here is the correct info on properly doing a long term repair on a tire however for added safety some repair systems now include a synthetic rubber coating to seal over the patch and buffed area to replace the synthetic rubber layer that was removed during the buffing process. As time passes and tire tech continues to evolve along with rubber formulations patching methods and chemicals will also have to evolve and become more stringent. What was allowable even 10 years ago is no longer good enough today. I will give kudos to the Sam's Clubs in my area as any time I have seen them do a puncture repair its always been by the book and as shown in the video. In any of the situations shown as unreparable they replace the tire most times for free under their road hazard warranty. The cord unraveling inside the tire after a puncture is not hype either and can happen regardless of the cord type though steel belted are more prone to it. I have seen some come in where they were like a woolly sheep inside even though from the outside they looked just fine.
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Post by w650 on Jun 13, 2017 3:49:03 GMT -5
For many scooter riders tire costs will be less than $40 a set.
$40. A set. I have 3.5 X 10 on my 150. Where can I get a $20 tire?
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Post by cyborg55 on Jun 13, 2017 20:55:33 GMT -5
Inquiring minds want to know nv
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Post by cyborg55 on Jun 13, 2017 21:00:13 GMT -5
The last tire for my Stella costs well above $50 delivered,,where o where can I get a quality tire for $20,,, I just gots to know ,,,o know it all dude,,,keep in mind I'm an admin and you're a poofy away from all bs stories
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Post by cyborg55 on Jun 13, 2017 21:01:16 GMT -5
And???
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Post by rockynv on Jun 17, 2017 8:33:51 GMT -5
At Parts for Scooters I am seeing the 2.50-10 for $15.99, 3.00-10 for $23.99 and 3.50-10 at $29.99 for the Vee Rubber tires which during their tire sales go down so most are less than $20 with the 3.50-10 just about $20. Vee Rubber makes a decent tire for the budget conscious however even at their regular prices your still talking about skipping a few extra large pizza's to make up the cost.
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 17, 2017 9:38:56 GMT -5
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Post by w650 on Jun 17, 2017 18:16:15 GMT -5
That's $30 plus shipping. I used a Vee Rubber on the Fashion. Never again. It toasted at 2,300 to the cord. The $35 Shinko on there now is at 3,000 with little sign of wear. With the $40 front tire, also a Shinko, I'm into $75 for the pair. A far cry from $40 a set and that's the cheapest I could go.
The first rule of economics Rocky. There's no such thing as a free lunch or a $40 set of scooter tires.
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Post by SylvreKat on Jun 18, 2017 6:22:08 GMT -5
That's $30 plus shipping. I used a Vee Rubber on the Fashion. Never again. It toasted at 2,300 to the cord. The $35 Shinko on there now is at 3,000 with little sign of wear. With the $40 front tire, also a Shinko, I'm into $75 for the pair. A far cry from $40 a set and that's the cheapest I could go. The first rule of economics Rocky. There's no such thing as a free lunch or a $40 set of scooter tires. I gotta agree re: inexpensive tires. My experience on an old car was similar--I got a set of Tiger Paws balanced and installed and everything for $100. They had such cruddy traction that just making regular right turns would cause squeal and slide no matter how reasonably slow I went. I would have to creep the turns to avoid any slippage. Lost the car when I stomped on the brakes and caused a skid which the tires never came out of despite my immediately releasing the brake and then pumping instead. Cheap can truly mean cheap. And with something as important as tires, I shall never cheap out again. Car or scoot. My life is worth more than the savings. >'Kat
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Post by rockynv on Jun 18, 2017 22:29:51 GMT -5
That's $30 plus shipping. I used a Vee Rubber on the Fashion. Never again. It toasted at 2,300 to the cord. The $35 Shinko on there now is at 3,000 with little sign of wear. With the $40 front tire, also a Shinko, I'm into $75 for the pair. A far cry from $40 a set and that's the cheapest I could go. The first rule of economics Rocky. There's no such thing as a free lunch or a $40 set of scooter tires. I had a $40 set of Kenda on my Lance and at 8,000+ miles they were still going strong but ready for a change due to being over 2 years old. Not the best high-line brand tire but decent. The Vee come in all rubber formulations with some having a soft rubber for better braking and cornering however one would expect only around 2,000 to 3,000 miles from the soft rubber models. I would not recommend the soft rubber grippy tires for use where its hot or on very course roads. The harder plastic formulation like many of the Shinko have would be better suited for the hotter climates or on course roads especially in more suburban or rural areas where there are more chip roads than bituminous concrete paved roads just watch out on smooth roads if their damp or its raining. You have to understand what the characteristics of the tire your considering are before you make the purchase. I ultimate performance then they usually won't last very long. Long wearing and then there will be compromises in grip in cold or wet weather. The Micheling Pilot Pure Power are dual compound to try and give both long wear and good cornering in all temps however they would not be considered a economical tire by many.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 18, 2017 22:51:12 GMT -5
That's $30 plus shipping. I used a Vee Rubber on the Fashion. Never again. It toasted at 2,300 to the cord. The $35 Shinko on there now is at 3,000 with little sign of wear. With the $40 front tire, also a Shinko, I'm into $75 for the pair. A far cry from $40 a set and that's the cheapest I could go. The first rule of economics Rocky. There's no such thing as a free lunch or a $40 set of scooter tires. I gotta agree re: inexpensive tires. My experience on an old car was similar--I got a set of Tiger Paws balanced and installed and everything for $100. They had such cruddy traction that just making regular right turns would cause squeal and slide no matter how reasonably slow I went. I would have to creep the turns to avoid any slippage. Lost the car when I stomped on the brakes and caused a skid which the tires never came out of despite my immediately releasing the brake and then pumping instead. Cheap can truly mean cheap. And with something as important as tires, I shall never cheap out again. Car or scoot. My life is worth more than the savings. >'Kat That (the squealing) speaks to a car horribly out of alignment and with more problems than just cheap tires on it. Its even possible the tire dealer was a shady one and sold you old out of date tires that were cheap because he picked them up from a lot sent to be recycled. The tire dealer I use in my area will not put tires on you car or truck if they are 5 years old since that would loose him his franchise to do business. He has to physically damage them beyond repair before sending them out to be recycled so scavenger dealers won't try to sell them as new safe tires. I had Tiger Paws as OEM on a mini van and though they were not the best they were respectable tires with decent grip/handling even through some pretty severe Northern New England Nor-Easters. When Bridgestone took over they really ruined the brands under the Firestone umbrella with their Bean Counter mentality. I knew some of the old time engineers who worked at Firestone/Uniroyal back then and there was a lot of cost cutting and such from the overseas management. They were basically trying to run the equipment from WWII era tire plants at the same speeds as the newer plants without upgrading the equipment and the old stuff while not worn out could not maintain the required temperatures at the speeds Bridgestone management wanted to run the production lines at.
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