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fuel pump
by: jerseyboy - Apr 13, 2015 6:18:53 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Apr 13, 2015 6:18:53 GMT -5
My manual was super easy to get too,,just reach under the left side and boom it was right there.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 12, 2015 10:55:22 GMT -5
If you watch the whole video he shows you how to test your ignition switch,starter switch,CDI,coil..everything in the system except RR.You watched that pretty fast,,i only posted it 5 minutes ago...lol
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fuel pump
by: jerseyboy - Apr 12, 2015 10:52:02 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Apr 12, 2015 10:52:02 GMT -5
I don't see how a fuel shut-off valve is going to solve whatever the problem is. All the petcock does is open up when vacuum sucks the diaphragm--- the vacuum isn't literrally sucking the fuel itself. It's just opening (sucking) a door to let the fuel in. Neither the petcock nor the shut-off valve are forcing anything. The problem has got to be somewhere else, IMO. You are right onewheel! The original problem sounds like a float or needle valve issue,,or fuel going back down the vacuum line into the intake....but if he replaces the petcock with a valve that will eliminate the vacuum line if thats the cause... |
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fuel pump
by: jerseyboy - Apr 12, 2015 10:47:09 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Apr 12, 2015 10:47:09 GMT -5
You need to figure out what thread you have on the tank then find an adapter...wonder if they used standard pipe thread in there..if thats the case would be real easy to do.If not you may be able too pull the guts out of the original pump/petcock so its just a passive part,,not sure how they look or work on 50's.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 12, 2015 10:42:27 GMT -5
This video will help you out,,I have posted it before..its the best one out there...
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fuel pump
by: jerseyboy - Apr 12, 2015 8:26:28 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Apr 12, 2015 8:26:28 GMT -5
If the hole is threaded you can get a fitting with a 1/4"barbed nipple on it I would think...just teflon tape before snuggin it up,,then hook your rubber 1/4" to that then to valve.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 20:19:46 GMT -5
Well for the kick starter not working you probably jumped the gears when you took the cover off,,you need to go back in and pull the half circle shaped gear back out a little,,then turn it so it lines up perfect with the beginning of the gear in front of it give it a little push and it should mesh,,then just be careful putting the cover back on,,they are a P I T A !! Those starters are pretty much glass starters,,very cheap,,mine still works but I would not use it unless it was an emergency,,most people take them out and plug the hole.
The left handle or rear brake has a nut on the end all the way back behind that spring near the rear wheel,,just snug that nut up until the lever feels a little more solid and grabs sooner,,also its a good idea to lube the lever,cable, and the pivot point on the adjuster arm with light oil too.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 17:37:01 GMT -5
I would do what scooter said,,
Just start at the top and work your way down,,remove the throttle clamp,grip,and cable and make sure the twist handle with cable guide track looks good,,then make sure the carb butterfly snaps back on its own with spring...hook cable back up and adjust it for a little bit(1/8")of play,,should be good to go....dont forget to lube the cable also...I think something is just out of adjustment or bound up.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 17:29:03 GMT -5
Man George,,
At least that bambi could have fell over dead then you could have got some good back straps and tenderloin out of it,,almost seems like you barley phased him the way you said he just walked off...darn deer!
Well keep us posted on the repair,,Im gonna try to do my top speed run video Monday,,I had it up to 65 today close to 7.5k rpm..thats 65 on the chinameter so I dont know,,i was going down a slight hill too in a 45 MPH zone so my butt was puckerin for cops.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 17:18:48 GMT -5
Ok today I open up my scooter, need to see what kind of belt I have. here is what I have, is that a good belt? And found another problem, there is some black tube that looks likes it's partially damaged. Will this affect anything?    Thats a Bando belt,,yes they are good,,measure it and if its less than 18-19mm wide then replace it,,that belt should last 4K miles no problem. As for the tube I cant really see it that well,,it just might be a, EGR,PAIR, or clean air emission pipe,,not really a big deal if its dented,,removed all my emission stuff and plugged all the vacuum lines up.When my scooter is sitting there idling and you stand behind it,,it smells so good,,just like a stinky racing motor should  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 17:14:40 GMT -5
Man I hope Im still riding a scooter at 87..thats awesome crawdad!!
Glad you feel better now that you changed your diet some.We can reverse just about any disease with proper nutrition and prayer.
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 11:38:28 GMT -5
Wow I just saw this and it s u c k s!!!!
Man,,glad you are ok bro..thats the important thing,,the scoot can be fixed..I had a buddy hit a deer at 40 and he was in bad shape,,had one run into the side of me once when I was on a CR 125 going down the road at about 40,,got lucky and just swayed a bit and bruised ankle.
This really stinks man!!
Surprised the exhaust didnt get a direct hit/scrape?
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 11:28:29 GMT -5
I just pull the whole clutch assembly off the shaft it should slide off real easy if it still has any grease left...then just clean the roller bearings real good with brake cleaner and a rag,there is also two pins between the pulleys that slide as the pulleys close and open,,hit those with a light dab of grease too...the roller bearing should feel smooth when you roll it with your fingers,,no need to remove the bearing from the clutch housing,,just hammer it real good with cleaner,dry with a rag and re grease with good red tacky high temp grease like Lucas,,even a good blue marine grease will suffice.You will be surprised how much smoother the CVT will feel after this.I went 2K km after I greased mine last time and it still had some grease left in it,,so I recommend doing this every 2K miles or so...also good idea to deglaze the inside of the bell with some 180g sand paper.
Hope that helps...
EDIT-Also the little brass or steel bushing that rides inside the variator face should be cleaned and very lightly greased at this time to(dont put much at all just enough to coat the bushing)..mine looks brand new and been doing this for 3 years now..its also nice and tight!
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fuel pump
by: jerseyboy - Apr 11, 2015 11:21:50 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 11:21:50 GMT -5
Take a pic of what you have there Lain,Im sure we can figure out some sort of connector for you,,Geh actually used copper line so there are many different ways you can adapt and connect things for the fuel system.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 11, 2015 11:19:34 GMT -5
Next time I go to HF I will look for an assortment of rubber washers,,pretty sure I saw them there,,those would be ideal.
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