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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 13:25:07 GMT -5
I would make sure the oil rings have a gap if I was you,,if they are touching eachother while the motor is cold,,wait till it gets hot,,they will start to bind and score,,maybe even break..get the proper gap for those as well,,do the math that I posted in my BBK thread to find out what they should be at.Better safe then sorry...
My compression rings looked different sizes but after I checked them with a caliper I found out they are the same size,,just different colors..they should be marked on the top with a T,T1,T2 ect.....T or T1 goes on top...
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 13:15:04 GMT -5
Thanks so much captain,,
I was looking at them on flebay and wasn't sure if they where clones of clones..lol
I will get one from that source you posted..really appreciate it!!
BTW-I like the video on the web page showing the difference between the real deal and fake..helps alot!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 10:43:33 GMT -5
My oil rings where about .008 on both so I just put them in like they came,,yours should be fine at .007.
Alot of people,,even scrappy don't even check for ring end gap on these GY6 motors,,IMO thats wrong,,they should be set to the correct gap..especially with a the compression these little motors have.I know after break in they open up a hair,,so if you set them on the tight side thats cool.
But hey,,if you want to trust the guy at the Asian factory/machine shop that made them,,more power to ya...mine where actually a bit to tight at .007 and .008 for a 150 1 1/2" down into the top bore.
Make sure you check it at least 1 1/2" down in on both sides of the bore,,they say the top of the bore is always a little tighter than the bottom.I should have measured that but didnt know until I put mine in.
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 10:34:34 GMT -5
jerseyboy. That's the one. And you did a very good job with the explanation. Best I have seen. Thanks man! Im not much of a speaker or video maker but I figured I would share my research with others,,the motor is together and running strong! |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 10:27:39 GMT -5
I'll try to find that video. It explained all the rings very well. It was a member from the forum. He also drew the lines on the piston to ensure the gaps were separated. I think the marker was blue if that helps anyone to remember. I forgot to ask, but since you will being installing a new kit. Does that mean your scooter is still eating oil, smoking, and popping? That was me Joey!! Its for a 150 but same method... |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 10:22:14 GMT -5
I know alot of the guys on here like higher RPM,,but never able to come down below 6K rpm for cruising is not what I am after,,thats just a screamin chinese piece of grated cheese that will eventually mush apart IMO..lol Anyway,,if I was on the track I would want to stay between 6-7.5K,,thats where the power is,,or so they say..mine pulls me 170lbs up the biggest of hills at 45 MPH with barley any throttle. Hope it warms up a bit more today,,man I am dying to go for a rip roar... I have my scoot to top out on a straight run around 7500 rpms and 67mph , however I can cruise around 50 mph between 5500 and 6000 rpms. Probably closer to 6000 rpms .I def agree running these babies at higher rpms may cause some issues with them , possibly even a catastrophic failure. Luckily my engine has lasted within a few thousand miles of 20k. I'm ordering a new starter clutch since I'm pretty sure its the culprit causing the noise behind the stator. I saw a video of some on having noise coming from the same area and it turned out to be the starter clutch had pretty much broken , causing the internal peices to bounce around . Well there is nothing wrong with cruising at 5500-6K at 50. When you tear into the motor to replace the starter clutch Im sure you will find something up in there,,hopefully you can fish out all the pieces if any fell off. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 10:13:37 GMT -5
Cool man, thanks jerseyboy . I'm just gonna pick up a pack of jets anyway now so I have something else to play around with. Probably just gonna grab that UNI while I'm at it too. This exhaust falling off has become a good thing for the tinkerer in me. Also,,had a question for you cap,, How do you like your JS4000 gopro clone? I was looking at those on ebay and they look sweet for the price,,your videos are really crisp too. I wanted one for doing some testing and riding videos when it warms up myself. Tom |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 10:01:55 GMT -5
Hahaha,,yeah 10-4!!
You might look into the little extension that they make for the UNI to route it through the hangar..
A lot of guys just mush the UNI through the hole in the hangar,,thats fine if you dont mind how it looks.
I have mine mounted inside my stock airbox,,it fit right in the hole perfect,,I drilled about 5x1\2"holes in the lid for the extra flow,,and when I put the lid on the UNI gets squeezed down about 1".It works awesome!!
The nice thing about a UNI is you can lose the bulky stock air box and snorkel giving you better access to everything in the engine compartment.
Im telling you though dewd,,you are going to be amazed at the difference..more fuel,,more air,,more power,,and noise..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 9:51:23 GMT -5
Yeah,,
I modded my slide so it would move up faster but did not mess with the spring...did you cut a wrap or so off to make it easier for the slide to go up in the carb,,if so how much did you cut off the spring?
I have an extra spring to play around with...
I hear that Harley guys take a one or two coils off their spring after modifying the slide,,but they dont really notice much difference unless they pipe and jet.
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 9:45:31 GMT -5
I know alot of the guys on here like higher RPM,,but never able to come down below 6K rpm for cruising is not what I am after,,thats just a screamin chinese piece of grated cheese that will eventually mush apart IMO..lol
Anyway,,if I was on the track I would want to stay between 6-7.5K,,thats where the power is,,or so they say..mine pulls me 170lbs up the biggest of hills at 45 MPH with barley any throttle.
Hope it warms up a bit more today,,man I am dying to go for a rip roar...
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 7, 2015 9:35:39 GMT -5
Thats awesome bro,,
Your dad rocks the house!
He looks like a very strong guy,,when you see him again if he is responsive,,tell him we are all praying for him to stay strong and believe by faith like Leo said.
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 6, 2015 22:47:52 GMT -5
My enricher doesn't do crap for cold starts,,i even changed it out thinking it was bad,,gotta crank POP crank POP POP,crank POP crank POP POP POP,,what a pain in the butt,,Im going to put a manual on it real soon man..toss the factory enricher right in the river where it belongs!! Mine starts to take off around 2600 R's with the stock clutch springs..i like it there,,also Im not going to mess around with the contra spring,,i kinda like it soft that way the motor doesn't work as hard getting into high gear low down on the rear pulley. Hey Geh,,you said your belt climbs to the top on your variator,,that has nothing to do with the clutch pulley contra spring does it? If that contra spring is too stiff your clutch pulley will have a hard time opening up to let the belt drop into high gear,,even though the variator might be pushing the belt to the top of the face,,your rear pulley might not be allowing the belt to drop all the way into high gear..thus you wont be getting the full ratio out of the CVT.A softer contra spring is better IMO,,stiffer clutch springs are fine if you like to have some more R's before the clutch fully engages,,but thats only the first 20 MPH of your range,,after that its all variator and rear pulley. I try to set up my CVT so the clutch does minimal work,,the quicker it engages the better,,less wear,less heat,less chance to glaze and cause slippage,,but then again Im not drag racing,,Im a low RPM cruising dewd....with some passing power  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 6, 2015 21:31:21 GMT -5
Im thinking a stock contra spring is all we should need to run on these ya know....why make it harder with a stiffer spring,,heck if you had big power a weak contra spring would be bad to the bone!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 6, 2015 21:16:51 GMT -5
Dewd..
A UNI POD filter with that pipe and a 115 jet,,look out cappy,,you better hold on!!
In stock form it might be a little on the lean side since more air is moving out,,but if you dont match that air out with air in(UNI)then you should be ok,the A/F screw might take care of any slight leaning,,you may have to go up to a 110 if the A/F screw doesn't give you enough fuel, the A/F is pretty much just for the pilot jet if I remember correctly...but the best performance mod I ever did for my stock scoot was the UNI along with the pipe and a 115-118 jet,,man what a difference!!
I would get a 110,115,120 that way you can play around when and if you get a UNI...too me a free flow exhaust is worthless without a free flow air intake.Unless you just like a little more noise..lol
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 6, 2015 21:12:20 GMT -5
28 is probably big enough to supply all a 150cc engine wants. There is some discussion about a 30mm carb having no extra power in the last 1/4 or 1/8 turn of the throttle - meaning that last bit of carb size offers no benefit. On the other hand, i have yet to hear a rational explanation of what a 30mm, or 32mm carb - properly jetted - will not perform equally to a 28mm carb. Of course I may be wrong, but if not then the bigger carb may not help but will not hurt either. You know I noticed that on my 24mm before the BBK,,the last 1/4 bit of throttle had very little noticeable difference,,it was like 3/4 was really close to WOT,,you really had to pay attention to feel the difference.Im looking forward to see if that changed now with the BBK and a bigger jet. |
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