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Post by tactics on Jun 6, 2013 18:57:39 GMT -5
welp, took the cover off checked the valve bolts realized my timing was off by 2 teeth so took the rockers off to fix the timing put it all back together making sure the bolts where tight so no leaks this time around go to start it.... boom, something goes wrong. I think the puffing was one of the valves going out. It's knocking horribly now so I guess I am going to take it all apart and try to get the BBK head to work. Only problem is it's a 64mm valve head and my 1p39qmb takes a 69mm so I'm not sure if it's going to work at all.
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Post by tactics on Jun 6, 2013 16:43:50 GMT -5
I just changed the plug yesterday but it was already doing it before that and I checked the head bolts while I was in there because I thought the same thing but no difference at all. Maybe the valve bolts? I didn't go that far in just checked the 8 bolts on the outside of the motor.
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Post by tactics on Jun 6, 2013 16:31:33 GMT -5
That is exactly the sound it is making just not as loud. I don't have a way to shoot vid and post and this was the only one I could find with the same sound.
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Post by tactics on Jun 6, 2013 16:12:35 GMT -5
So I put my 50mm bbk in and it ran great for a while, but now I am getting a strange puffing sound that scales with RPMs. It is not there when cold only after a couple miles and my hill climb/acceleration have dropped a bit. Any ideas? I was wondering if it could be related to my ERG? No air box means the exhaust tube for it just kinda hangs there. Its not popping or ticking, it sounds like a tiny steam engine lol. No smoke or other weird sounds to go on right now.
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Post by tactics on Jun 5, 2013 20:44:52 GMT -5
I have the same issue right now. I believe it's related to the torque spring in the clutch. The variator trying to put more in than the clutch has. As least that is the " most likely " option in my opinion checked over everything else earlier today and it's all in good standing. Logic behind this just so I don't seem insane ( even if I am wrong lol ) The stock torque spring is only like 800rpm so I figure that with ANY sort of performance parts on you already throw off the ratio set between the rollers and clutch springs. Variator attempts to close fully but the clutch is already fully open due to rpms. I figure the two worst upgrades to cause it are rollers/sliders and CDI considering % of stock CDIs are rpm limited to match the springs ( US at least ). I get that the CVT is supposed to " adjust " accordingly, but with such a low stock setting on the torque/shoe springs, the CDI plus the roller weight. I can't help but believe that one " tweak " to the CVT system has to be followed by others to balance it back out. I'm not the best person to listen to sometimes though. I have been stewing my brain on this one for a few days now but i'm still new to the whole CVT system to. Also, you could be running lean and getting to hot at WOT. >.> Probably should have gave the easy answer first huh?
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My ATM50-a
by: tactics - Jun 5, 2013 14:19:06 GMT -5
Post by tactics on Jun 5, 2013 14:19:06 GMT -5
No belt yet, gonna order that springs and sliders friday when I get paid. The 8g rollers came with the kit that had my bbk exhaust and all that so I figured I would try them. I have about 30 miles in on this setup so far. Not to much still working the kinks out of it. The back shock and the " other " work I am going to save for winter. Only things I am planning on doing with it in the near future are 2k shoe and contra springs, 5/6g sliders, a better belt and a plug. Somehow my stock plug is still running strong lol. I pulled the stock rollers and after only 250-300 miles they already had flat spots on each one I think my variator is sticking but I'll have to make it work for at least a month or so till I can get a performance variator/clutch. I am finding all of a sudden that after 3/4 throttle i'm not gaining much at all, it is not bogging but not really gaining from 25-35 unless I leave it at 3/4 but after 35 it picks back up.
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My ATM50-a
by: tactics - Jun 4, 2013 21:40:57 GMT -5
Post by tactics on Jun 4, 2013 21:40:57 GMT -5
Sig has everything I have done to it. Already a bkk (50mm) carb (20mm) cdi, jet ( ), air filter and 8g rollers ;D Just noticed a weird rattle scaling with the rpm's in the CVT and a " puffing " noise that does the same from somewhere in the engine shroud. No time to check it out tonight gonna look tomorrow. Neither noise is there when cold, they seem to start up after about 4 miles. No difference in performance that I can notice though.
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My ATM50-a
by: tactics - Jun 4, 2013 13:24:01 GMT -5
Post by tactics on Jun 4, 2013 13:24:01 GMT -5
Well this is my current scoot. A lot more fun that I thought it was going to be. Been a blast working on it so far with upgrades, still a few to go. CVT work mainly and maybe a crank later down the road. Attachments:
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Post by tactics on Jun 4, 2013 10:43:16 GMT -5
Check all the connections and check the fuse on the positive cable should be in a little snap box. Make sure the grounds are connected good to they have a habit of not being tight enough. While you are going to have it apart anyway I would go through and do a full PDI and just check ALL the connections and replace fuel and vac lines.
It sounds like either the fuse blew out, the voltage regulator fried or there is a wire protrusion somewhere causing arch ( likely a positive wire, neg it should just shut down ).
Anyway that is my two cents, good luck and hope you get it back up and running!!
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Post by tactics on Jun 4, 2013 1:09:31 GMT -5
Ya a lot of them measure in Km. I added up the miles to and from work the avg amount of gas I put in about .3-.4 of a gallon every two days. It looks like I am getting around 65-70mpg with a 80cc ( 50mm ) bbk 22mm carb and a main. Not to bad, still better than any car running around town. Minus the 2 smart cars haha. I don't know why I didn't think to do that before. Sometimes I baffle even myself with bad brain function.
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Post by tactics on Jun 3, 2013 22:57:40 GMT -5
I have one on my 1p39qmb it's a direction hose for draining gear oil. I have a piece of tube hanging from mine.
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Post by tactics on Jun 3, 2013 22:00:03 GMT -5
Anyone happen to know how big the gas tank is on a 2011 atm50-a? I can't find the spec anywhere, even my manual says " When needle is close to red 1.5 liters will be plenty " Literally.... thats what is says no actual spec. My entire manual is all in broken English that I can't make heads or tails of half the time. I'm trying to calculate my mpg, but it's not like I can just run it bone dry then poof to the gas station. I live in an apartment and literally cannot have a gas tank according to manager " It's a safety hazard " or I would just run it low and let it sit till it ran dry. I have been looking and can't find it anywhere online, maybe i'm just not looking in the right place?
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Post by tactics on Jun 3, 2013 20:44:46 GMT -5
So given the situation I did some research, checked my variator and clutch. I think 2k's should do just fine with the 8g rollers ( getting 6g sliders to try out too ) with the BBK. Combined Clutch/Contra / Powerlink belt / 6g sliders together on ebay and it's only $58.61 so friday I am just going to order it all slap it on when it gets here and see what happens.
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Post by tactics on Jun 3, 2013 17:29:16 GMT -5
I might just go with the 2k's then and check my variator/clutch ratio after. I have no idea how to balance it out and know what size contra to go with but I know for sure the stock 800 sucks and has got to go. After that bit of info I am getting the 2k clutch springs for sure though. Maybe the CVT guide here will help me out. I have the basic understanding on how it works. But no idea how to balance it out right. I'll remember that on the slider weight before I order them though thank for that bit of info. I'm hitting 50 on flat ground right now ( according to speedo ) just takes forever to get there starts creeping after 45 but that is plenty of top speed really, the only section of road I hit that is 50 is only about 3-4 blocks worth of road up a slight hill.
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Post by tactics on Jun 3, 2013 17:04:46 GMT -5
;D Well thank you, I used to do a lot of work on dirtbikes so once I hopped on here and read up a little I decided to go through everything the CVT and valves are a new concept to me. Everything I have worked with was chain driven and 2t. I was thinking with the BBK in I should be able to go up to 1.5 contra and shoe springs with no top end loss after reading up on the mechanics of the CVT a bit. I think I might lose out a bit on the 2k's. But I am not 100% on that. I would like to get all the acceleration and hill climb I can out of it. I use it mainly to get to work and I have a couple steep hills I tackle. It is doing a lot better with the bbk and the 8g rollers on the test drive but I lost acceleration with the heavier rollers. But I don't want to try the 2k ad only be able to hit 30-35 mph either. I'm getting 50 top end right now.
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