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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 13:49:36 GMT -5
Vermi,,,1000 hail mary's and 2400 our fathers to atone for this transgression,,,i beat this very thing over on SD more than once,,,you have to inspect and give the machine a walk around every time you get on the thing,,i check tire pressure every sunday morn,,,(once a week),,,a get off at speed can get ugly,,,really ugly if you're whippin 45mph and it goes out and pulls you into on coming traffic,,,at 45-50 going the other way,,,,you will not survive,,,and if you did you probably would wish you didn't,,,,, i have 10/11/12/13mm long handle open end combo wrenches set in my box so i can get to them easy and hit all the criticle bolts and nuts 3-4 times a month minimum,,,i don't reuse lock washers or nyloc nuts or cotter pins,,,i look for rust powder on frame and all other joints,,,(this means movement ),, i don't like pain,,,and is the biggest reason i never was a spy,,,they'd catch me and roll out the tools and i'd be singing before they got one off the table,,,, after all i am the biggest pusy on this forum and i have a reputation to uphold,,,, Lol
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 12:36:37 GMT -5
I have the best way to install the new tires !! Getting them off wasn't that bad , but on is a different story. This is what you do . leave the tire out in the hot sun and put the rim in the freezer for about 30 mins . lightly use some grease around the bead and as quick as possibly use the normal method for installing the tire on the rim . much easier , ask Lain . it sounds ridiculous but works great.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 12:32:23 GMT -5
Hey guys. Thanks for all your help. I ended up purchasing a new carb. My scooter ran great....until yesterday when I filled the tank 3/4 of the way up. Now it won't start at all. I'm getting a clean spark and it initially started up just fine but bogged out as soon as I took off. I didn't have a vent hose (the port nearest the diaphragm and needle cap) before and it was totally fine....now there is fuel coming out of that port when I turn the engine over. I am absolutely clueless and honestly a but frustrated that filling up on gas caused an issue like this. Do you guys have any idea what might be my problem? By the way, when I throw a vent hose on there, it doesn't fill up with gas and the engine still doesn't turn over correction* it does turn over but does not start If you have a gravity fed system , you need to check the vacuum operated fuel valve. It may be gummed up . if its a fuel pump , well the same issue , it may be gummed up . you should have replaced all the fuel lines and checked the valve or pump already , but if not , then that may be the issue. And do what lain said , empty the tank and flush it with some good gas.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 12:17:28 GMT -5
Sorry for the lack of response Kiekara, I haven't had much time for the forums lately. Life has handed me a full plate and time has become a valuable commodity for me at the moment. Luckily, with it being Sunday, I have a minute to catch my breath. I meant to include a 105, 108 and 110. I accidentally included a 106 I guess. I didn't realize I had any 106's... I'll be most interested to see if changing the needle height fixes your bogging issue. I've used these carbs on a lot of different scoots and never had to mess with the needle. Hey no problem, and yea the 106 I thought was a 108 as well but as I looked closer it is a 106, the top of the six almost comes around and touches looking like an 8. Now as far as the testing last night, had more power on takeoff, felt like the old motor when I got the scoot new lol. The bogging was not as bad as far as didn't lose as much power just kinda flattened out until was almost to 5k, but was still picking up mph faster. So I think I will try to change the needle a little bit richer, hopefully I can do it without pulling the carb off, if that still doesn't fix it I may take the cvt cover off and take a look make sure it's not an issue in there restricting the scoot for some reason. I def think its in the carb , it just takes some time . I agree with dmartin , I also have never had to mess with the needle.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 12:12:34 GMT -5
You all know the long bolt the holds the engine to the mount ? Well I lost the nut from the bolt before . my engine was just about ready to go . I felt a slight swaying soz when I got home I noticed it . left engine mount hole was hanging on by the last couple threads on the bolt !! I had to pound the bolt back through and luckily I had another nut that fit it.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 12:09:34 GMT -5
Mine use to come loose all the time , so I now use loctite on it .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 12:04:22 GMT -5
Thanks for the order !! I'll have it in the mail 2moro ! You sent $65 instead of $45 . does that mean you want 2 unlabeled , empty prescription bottles ? I can label them if you want . I have a decent printer. I can even fill them , but I have to wait for another power outage . I also need to pic up a new ski mask . so it may take a few days .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:58:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the order !! I'll have it in the mail 2moro !
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:52:53 GMT -5
Yes the clutch pads can def wear out quick depending on the circumstances. my ncy clutch " pads" wore out pretty quick. I was using a 2000 main spring and 1500 rpm clutch springs and the pads wore out in about 12k miles. That might seem like a lot , but when you now average about 6k miles or more every year , its not much . if you stop and takeoff a lot , that will have an effect on how long they last .
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hoca 52mm kit
by: geh3333 - Jun 15, 2015 11:41:46 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:41:46 GMT -5
Maybe he ported it more who knows? LOL How's it going Jim ? This is George from Pa. Have you had any luck with the trike parts ?
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FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 15, 2015 11:40:17 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:40:17 GMT -5
R u running hih rpms at top end ? If your weijts are too light you will have high rpms but it will feel really weak . that is at top end Yeah it does, I'm using 8g weights. I have to wait a few weeks until I can afford anything though. I just sold all of my lighter weights on eBay. From 9 to 14 grams. I sold about 60 of them for $17 fee shipping. I wish I still had some , I'd would have sent you a few heavier sets .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:37:34 GMT -5
Sorry bud , I just got back on here a little bit ago . go with heavier weights . go up 1 gram at a time and mark the variator with a sharpie so u can see how high the belt is climbing. That's the main factor in " do in need to change gearing " . keep going up in weights , until you either have full climb or are around 73-7500 rpms on a straight run . if you reach full climb and still have high rpms , the u will need to change gearing.
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FFWWAOOOMP!
by: geh3333 - Jun 15, 2015 11:30:55 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:30:55 GMT -5
rcq92130 I would if I knew how to weld and had the money for it. So everything seems good again now after finishing everything. Rehoned the cylinder, put new rings on the piston, put a head on with less miles that looks better, put it all back together and it definitely feels stronger and smoother, and ontop of that quieter! I feel the high end is lacking and the high end revs aren't being used to the full potential but I believe I'll experiment with weights and figure it out, plus I plan to get better final gears, but the engine issues are gone now. Oh and no more oil consumption issue R u running hih rpms at top end ? If your weijts are too light you will have high rpms but it will feel really weak . that is at top end
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:26:37 GMT -5
Just cut the metal tab and be done with it. I have no need cut mine . I actually think its a good idea keeping it , considering many of us need to remove the gas cap to remove the underseat compartment , so we can work on our scoots. I always put the cap back on after removing the compartment , but on ocassion I have forgot to. It would be terrible to drop something somewhat big into the tank while your working on the scoot. Think about it , imagine I'm working on my scoot and I leave the gas cap off . I then reach into my pocket to grab my mind altering prescription drugs and NOOOOOOOOOOOO !!! right into the gas tank . now if the bracket was there my unlabeled prescription bottle would be safe an sound right at the top of the tank. But now I can't finish working on her because withdraw has begun to set in !! This whole catastrophe could have been diverted if I had just kept the darn bracket !! That's why I'll take this time to announce that Im selling a replacement bracket for all who read this and had chills run through their bodies. No need to spend years trying to reattach the old cut bracket with ductape and bubblegum ! Just buy my new gas tank hole bracket . this bracket is made of flint so as you install it there is no need to remove the gasoline !! Just use the metal striker " I mean " file , to file the bracket to size ! Just hold the new bracket into place and file it down to size. No need for any glues , tape or welding . this bracket has its own bracket !! And it sets between the cap and the tank !! So hurry while supplies last . so far I have 1 in my inventory so please hurry ! The first 500 callers will receive an empty unlabeled prescription bottle !! For only 19.99 plus shipping and handling. The bracket will be an extra 19.99 plus shipping and handling . so please hurry ! Lol , please dont take seriously .
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 10:53:47 GMT -5
Actually , since the piston does not rise into the combustion chamber , the piston would only suck from tdc of the cylinder , to the bottom of the stroke in the cylinder . however , the combustion chamber would still be filled with extra air . so this means the air to fuel ratio being sucked in by the piston can be a little richer , because of the extra in the combustion chamber . I hope I didn't confuse anyone , lol
Then again it would be exhaust gasses left in the combustion chamber . sooo , hmmm
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