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Post by carasdad on Apr 18, 2013 9:38:24 GMT -5
Syntric irritates me. They've pirated a whole bunch of our images over the years for parts that they sell that are similar to ours. Abscooter's description of how Syntric works is pretty close, and certainly accurate enough for the conversation here. Matt Matt I will say they have a few images of parts that are identical to your site sir. Abscooters..that is why I used pay pal...had my credit card out..looked around for the SSL notification...not there.  |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 18, 2013 9:22:21 GMT -5
some of the performance cdi's actually make it worse, i only get them from scrappys now and tell all my customers the same and have had no issues since millsc...agreed Mr 4 Stroke guru! My wholesaler in China is a very honest man. He buys his blue aluminum finned "New Racing CDI" for 3 companies. One brand he is discontinuing has a linear 12 degree advance from idle to top end...there is no curve built into them. He says to me in an email. "Problem causing 12 degree constant advance make for difficulty in start of engine. Idling and up to 3/4 turn of acceleration handle timing is too soon, this cause detonate of ignition giving low power and possible engine damage. These I now selling off to other company in Beijing.They release them for purchase very cheap on Ebay,so customer not knowing what they buy on Ebay.Customer seeing them at lower cost than standard CDI buy them and have difficulties with proper running of engine. So I now sell just one brand which we have performed testing. We also received parts with stamp NCY, but not made in Taiwan and not true NCY.These such items we will not sale,but other business here in China do as such.That is reason we suggest at my company,that American parts and component dealers buy one of an item and test before sold many to customers" So millsc...right from a wholesaler himself! He knows many companies in China that even will sell a rejected item. He told me to look for an X or * stamp on an item....that means it does not meet standards and the materials must be reclaimed to make a new part.  So buyer beware!! |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 18, 2013 8:59:29 GMT -5
Carasdad: I'm not saying that lithium batteries are not great, they are. Just that they are expensive! rtsecino can score a sealed AGM Scorpion battery (YT4L-BS) for $35.00 with free shipping (if he lives in the lower 48 states) here: www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYT4L-BS.htmlExcellent battery & if he keeps it on a float charge it should last him @ least 4+ years, if not more. Just saying that all decent scooters come with an AGM battery (Kymco, SYM, Genuine etc.) & they have become standard now. I'm not sure...but what would a lithium battery cost? $150.00? Rtsecino: You can score a 4Ah here for $39.00: www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sytz5s.htmlGood Luck! Wow..now THAT is a deal for an AGM battery. For stock or moderate performance parts on your scoot..they will work great..and no 'wet cell' lead/acid corrosion which is my biggest contempt for 'wet cell' batteries. Sometimes even at a low charge rate they bubble over...corrode the terminals and have to be cleaned often. For those..like our family fleet of scoots...the CDI is right next to the battery and it corrodes as well.  With the AGM most customers have an old antique charger Grandpa gave to them..or a "Smart Charger" and once the voltage falls below 10.8 the chargers assume it has a dead or shorted cell and won't charge it. So they bring it back to me claiming it's junk. I have shown them how those type of chargers WILL charge the AGM. That being put a known good battery on the charger...use 2 jumpers with Alligator clips)I even make them a set for free) Use the jumpers and connect the AGM parallel to the good battery and it will charge. But for most it is confusing..or just too much work 'read..Lazy) Lithium batteries have come down in price just in this past month. Still more than a 'wet cell' or AGM..but would save them the confusion of AGM and corrosion of 'wet cell' The EVO2 lithium are a kewl idea 7amps in a tiny package...BUT the 4amp and 7amp most scoots use...the EVO2 will fit the box...except that they are a few inches taller...so you can't get your battery cover on....and for some reason they are low on CCA. As said before..another reason I like the new Litium size for size match of a 4amp or 7amp battery..is because most of my customers are younger folks...and they want the ULTIMATE performance build on their scoot. Which means advancing hi po CDI and 50-52mm BBK's . This puts compression way up there and with the advanced timing..a standard 'wet cell' or AGM does not have the power to crank them well...resulting in a quickly drained battery due to the high current draw from the struggling starter motor. AND you know young folks...they do not understand the 5 second burst concept when starting a scoot. They will hold the start button until the battery is depleted.....hold the button 1,2 or 3 minutes even..but in that case the battery depletes...however nearly everytime they fry the starter in doing so.  So to take away one part of the ignorance equation...I put in a Lithium with its higher cranking amperage. Ya see...it is easier to fix a battery problem....than it is is to fix youthful ignorance... ;D |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 18, 2013 8:37:35 GMT -5
What millsc said above!! A performance CDI really does nothing on a stock engine. But a tad lighter roller or slider weights will show almost miraculous improvement.  |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 21:33:32 GMT -5
You can take a hair off the inner curve on the sheave so it does not hang up so much. They usually have a little point on the inside of the curve which is the hang up point file that point down and save some a good amount of bucks. Also put a little greae on the pins and on the slots. Alleyoop Yes..it does have a little point in the slot. Thought about slightly reshaping that..but was not sure if it would work. Only makes sense that it would as I have worked on a few super high mileage scoots where that 'hump' had worn down when I took the sheave apart to clean and grease it...and noticed they did not have that annoying 'shift' point in the power band. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 21:26:57 GMT -5
I used to buy from them when they shipped out of CA, now almost everything is shipped out of China and usually missing parts, so I quit ordering from them. BTW, It is just an affiliate site from Syntric, there are alot of them out there and almost all of them just dropship out of China. What is Syntric? I can't Google them... |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 21:06:27 GMT -5
Yep, onc size taller weights if you can find them will give you a kick in the pants as they say. That will push the Variator out more and push the belt up higher on the Variator, results more top end speed. Alleyoop Yes sir indeed! Just as I found out...that 1mm difference makes more of a difference than you think it would. As I mentioned before...hence Hoca using 16X13 on a 2T engine and Aprilla using 17X12. That 1mm or 2mm in the case of Aprilla... is not totally linear in its travel down the variator channel....for the most part it is until it reaches the performance variators steeper angle at the end of travel. Not sure how well it would work with round roller weights as the elliptical shape of the sliders causes a higher lift at the end of their travel. But I am going to try a set.....just to see. Now I just need to get a performance rear sliding sheave...cause that slight pause at about 30 mph...where the scoot 'shifts' the rpm's are right up there in the power band...until it hits that spot and they drop..so the engine is out of the power band until it accelerates back into it...at about 35. Then 35-50 is quite fast as well. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 20:30:52 GMT -5
i have the 52mm kit on both my scoots and run two base gaskets with a 50mm big valve head ported and polished, had the 39mm combustion head on my t3 it was too much broke my cvt case and all, so i've found that the 52mm kit works best with two base gaskets and a 50mm combustion head, i have only installed the 50mm kits with the 50mm head the 47mm kits work fine with stock head my stepson is running his scrappy 47mm kit with the stock head no issue That's what I put on all 47mm kits...the stock head. Works great..no probs and 2 customer scoots out there with about 8,000 miles....the other about 9,000 miles.. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 20:03:05 GMT -5
Ever since we bought my wife's 250 scooter, the battery would die after a few minutes of riding. Bought a new battery and that didn't solve the problem. I can charge up the battery, she can hop on and ride and the first stop, the battery is dead. I have to jump start her bike with mine. I don't know what to do. Could it be an alt or something else? I need advice please. Could be her Stator(alternator)..or her voltage regulator. One of them may be bad. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 20:01:04 GMT -5
Today I was thinking.No! Actually this time I was. I was pondering why the Aprilla SR50 is such a fast stock scoot. They are basically the same as our Jog/Minarelli engines. Yet oddly we use 15X12 variator weights....and they use 17X12 variator weights. So I marked my variator with a Sharpie pen and did a WOT run with the KOSO 5gram sliders I have been running in it. Been thinking they were too light and was going to go heavier since my BBK should be able to work well with a heavier weight. I had about 6mm of untouched variator surface. All I had for sliders was a pair of generic 16X13 green color 6 gram ones I got off Ebay pretty cheap. So 10-12 swipes down a Mill File and they were now 16X12 and about 5.5 grams. While only 1mm taller than the typical Jog/Minarelli 15X12 sliders...due to their elliptical shape..at the end of travel when sliding them by hand in my variator...they appeared to increase travel by more than just that 1mm. Marked my variator with a Sharpie and installed them. I ran it with the CVT cover off first in case there was a problem and I would end up pushing the scoot home. A few good revs and all that was left of the Sharpie mark.... was a tiny dot! The belt edge was riding almost flush with the edge of the CVT. So then I thought again(2 thoughts in one day..unreal for me huh?) It came to me that when I install Hoca performance variators for folks Jog/Minarelli...they use the 16X13mm weights...1mm taller than our stock 2T weights...so possibly why folks notice a speed improvement? My KOSO variator only uses the 15X12 weights..but has longer channels as it is larger in diameter and has a steeper ramp at the end. Again I mark the CVT..put the cover on and go for a ride. Same Rocket like take off it always had...same brief acceleration pause it had at 30mph where the rpms drop and the scoot shifts(stock rear sliding sheave) From there it continued to climb to 50 steadily..which is about its top speed. But it hit 50 and was still climbing! My speedo stops at 50..that is as high as it is marked. No clue how fast I was going as I did not think to bring the GPS. But it was a fingers width or so into the white! I could definitely feel more speed as well. Also the road I was on is a 55mph zone and I was catching the truck in front of me. Of course I have no clue if he was going 55....all I know is that I was really moving. So now maybe I understand why the 2T Hoca variator uses 16X13 weights...and the Aprilla use 17X12...vice 15X12 like our standard Jog/Minarelli....CVT. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 18:46:17 GMT -5
My impression is that Scrappy doesn't operate that way. Am I correct? No..scrappy is the real deal...brick and mortar shop with huge warehouse and great staff. Rick runs an honest business and customer service is great. Shelly..who answers the phone..will even go pull a part...weigh it..measure..describe it...anything you ask. Now THAT is customer service. Parts for scooters..same way. I always get the same with ALL the folks you see in the banners above. You want quality...a good price...and great customer service...click the banners above. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 18:25:13 GMT -5
If my battery 7ah gets low it wont turn over my 52mm kits and the batteries are new I may switch to lithium good heads up carasdad You will like them millsc. btw..on your 50 and 52mm BBK's do you use the stock head or the 47mm or big valve ported ones? Funny story about the 52mm BBK..cause those are no joke powerful! I put on the stock head cause my cousin did not want to buy another head...it would not crank..so I try to kick start it..no go...this 142lb 5' 8" frame could not budge it. Frank connects his Jet Ski 200CCA battery up...it cranks. We do a compression test...242psi He said..."Add a base gasket"..I said no dumb @ss.... Add a bigger head. He got the big valve ported one from scrappy and it worked better. Compression was down to 195psi..but a low 7amp AGM still fought to crank it. Cranked over but slowly..with a few pauses. I ran home and got the Lithium 7amp battery I was gonna put in my scoot as it was given to me free from my wholesaler to test and write an evaluation for him.Bolted it in and that thing spun over like a stock 50cc engine. Shop around cause they are going for right at $100.00 at motorcycle..scooter shops...auto parts stores...pretty much everywhere. 2 places were $139.00 and $145.00. I can get them for $60.00 plus shipping to you. But here is a better idea...here is a link that with me shipping ya one would cost about the same.. www.ebay.com/itm/YTX7A-BS-7A-BS-Lithium-Ion-Sealed-Battery-12V-160-CCA-Motorcycle-Scooter-ATV-/281085409807#vi-content About 1/2 price as some are asking for one...and at the Ebay price same as you would pay for an AGM. Plus they are happy with any old charger ya have...unlike AGM and EVO2 batteries which can be picky about the charger..when low some chargers read them as a dead or shorted cell and won't charge. The Lithiums don't care..charge at 2amps for 2 hours and be ready to unleash their power. ;D |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 17:41:36 GMT -5
STOP! People....Sorry for the dramatic introduction...Really...AGM batteries are the standard now & "if" you invest in a Deltran Battery Tender Jr. & keep your battery on a "float" charge they will last @ least 4-5 years (one of mine lasted 7 years!) You all should be using a battery tender here: www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366231854&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+jr. It's a sub-$25.00 investment! When you keep you scooter battery on the tender when not in use, it does it's job for short coin! I have owned four Kymco's & all have been outstanding! Please keep in mind that 2 have been kept outside (under a cover & plastic tarp) in the New England weather! I always had my Battery Tender Jr. hooked-in to my outside outlet & it's been a champ! Ok..so they are the standard..fine with me. Does not mean they need to be my standard. Cause personally I think they suck. This is America and I am entitled to my beliefs and opinions...and I prefer the Lithium batteries. Try one and ya won't go back. I learned long ago as a child from the Elders on the Reservation. Just because something is 'Standard'...'Status Quot'.....'The way we always do it'....and 'That is just how it is'. None of the previous dictate that they are right and that I must follow them. Just sayin' ya know...  p.s. I have had lead acid 'wet cell' batteries last 4 years in a scoot..which is good..but I don't like the corrosion they cause...and size for size Lithium batteries put out almost twice the CCA....that is helpful in these cold Michigan winter months and for the folks I build high performance high compression engines for. The 7amp AGM even does not like the 50 or 52mm GY6 BBK's and sometimes struggle to crank them. Same size Lithium battery spins them over like the spark plug is out of the engine.. |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 11:59:08 GMT -5
Staight cut will require thicker oil since there is less surface on the teeth which means more psi for the lube to bear agains on each tooth. The helical gears had maybe 50 to 75% more surface to spread the load than the straight gears do. Thanks...I wondered why straight cut made more noise. I think the 80/  vice 30w he uses would help some. Annoying to ride next to him..cause when he lets off throttle and decelerates...it sounds like a jet engine winding down |
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Post by carasdad on Apr 17, 2013 10:22:43 GMT -5
The engine was still found to be out of oil so there is a problem there. The question is now how many miles on the bike and how long have you had it. It could just need a valve adjustment as blowing out oil which can be sent out a vent tube that comes over the cvt to the back of the gear case is a symptom of excessive crankcase pressure being developed as valves close too early when the lash gets loose. Also the GY6 is know for loosing oil if you push them before the engine warms up meaning you have to give them light throttle for a few blocks after you first start them up to allow the piston rings to expand so you don't blow your oil out of the engine. Wide open throttle on a cold GY6 can blow out a lot of oil especially if the valves are not adjusted properly. Aha...so the engine was out of oil..thought I saw that in his post that it was not just a tranny oil problem. So my above post still stands valid then --->(No offense to the site..but I bought that same exact part. Autozone..NAPA and Auto Quest have them for $2.99. But with the 150's I have worked on...when it gets to blowing oil..the check valve is just a 'Band Aid' on a deeper problem..that being excessive blow by. All 4 on tear down..I found the oil rings compressed and locked into the piston. 2 had a 'Double Whammy' collapsed oil rings and deteriorated valve stem seals allowing too much oil into the top end..where it was blown out the vent line. Each person gave the same story...they were running WOT for a long stretch of many miles. Said they felt like a sudden but slight power loss..then oil spray. Not diagnosing...just sharing what I found....so it may be worth looking into... ) @ alleyoop...reason I asked about what tranny oil you use id because a friend uses straight 30w. He put in an 'up gear' kit by Polini. The gears came as straight cut...vice the helical ones he had. Therefore the gear noise is very audible and annoying. Was thinking the 80/ would help hush them up. What's your thought on that? He complains about the new gears noise...but won't let me fill the tranny with 80/ ....  |
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So to take away one part of the ignorance equation...I put in a Lithium with its higher cranking amperage. Ya see...it is easier to fix a battery problem....than it is is to fix youthful ignorance... ;D
vice 30w he uses would help some. Annoying to ride next to him..cause when he lets off throttle and decelerates...it sounds like a jet engine winding down