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Post by mattwg on Jun 9, 2013 0:11:39 GMT -5
this has just been nuts with this bike. its starting to seem like it is denying the laws of physics
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Post by mattwg on Jun 8, 2013 10:25:01 GMT -5
I thought I lined up the T quite well but I can check it out again. I did the clearance to recommended specks for exhaust and intake. The valves were lapped and new springs were also installed. The compression feels very strong. Maybe I put the springs in wrong way up? I can check that. I just don't want to take the motor off the bike again. I'll check to make sure timing was done at TDC just to completely confirm but I did things very methodically. However here I am with an engine that wont start so I have to have something off with my job no question about it
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Post by mattwg on Jun 8, 2013 2:18:06 GMT -5
my bms v9 evo (gy6 150cc) will not start and we have done every test suggested apart from going into the timing again which appears to be in the right place but I will concede that it could be a tooth off. This all started when I replaced my my stock Chinese valves for good steal ones and put it back on the bike. It appears that I have set everything to the marks... The holes that line up parallel to the edge look very good but could be a millimeter off in their lineup with the edge of the casing. Don't know if that is a big deal. My scooter will absolutely not start even with spraying some carb cleaner through the air intake of the carb. absolutely no response to this... none. I can't get any form of firing to go. I have spark and everything. could I have lined up the timing on the wrong stroke making the spark to fire on the exhaust stroke and that being the reason for no response? Again, every test suggested besides going back to the timing has been tried... I have received great feedback on this board and am wondering what you guys have to say about this. Appreciate it!
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Post by mattwg on May 31, 2013 22:42:21 GMT -5
compessionns good grounds good now for your final step... how is the best way to check the timing with the cam gear and the chain being inside the casing? its too damn tight in this yhing
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Post by mattwg on May 31, 2013 21:37:23 GMT -5
no its not doin its thing and we have sprayed 89 octane will jumping solenoid, by passing carb and we can't even get a sloppy fire
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Post by mattwg on May 31, 2013 20:57:42 GMT -5
with the kick it looks like a better spark. I am not sure at what frequency the spark should be going. shouldn't it be one flash per stroke per compression stroke? it sparks awfully fast for me just doing a kick... as you can tell I don't entirely know my stuff about that... i use the car battery for all this just to make sure...
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Post by mattwg on May 31, 2013 20:24:42 GMT -5
I have put my scooter back together after swapping out the valves of my gy6. I have found that the spark I am getting when I pull the plug comes as one bright spark and then a constant flickering of very small arcs. Nothing that would indicate any form of correlation with a stroke. I turn the starter over by bipassing the solenoid with a screwdriver so it turns and I get spark but as I said it shows a good spark and then a steady floww of little tiny sparks as I turn the starter. any help would be very appreciated.
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Post by mattwg on May 5, 2013 15:42:54 GMT -5
It seems like I've seen so many people online who have replaced the airbox but no comment on the tubing. It makes sense that much of it would have to do with emissions now that Teddy554 mentions it. I have having big time problems solving a fuel issue due to my scooter sitting in the garage for over a year without driving as I was switching out the crappy valves. I would like to just go with a nice clean new bigger carb and toss this stocker. I have a air pipe and filter but it is meant for a larger carb it looks like. The muffler shop idea sounds like the best idea for those pipes actually. These frigin scooters are really starting to frustrate me. I mean it's one cylinder that I'm trying to keep lit not a freakin jet engine!
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Post by mattwg on May 5, 2013 2:23:37 GMT -5
when replacing stock air box for a cone filter upgrade there are so many vac lines that no longer have anything to connect to. I take it I don't need them now... but what do I do with them and why is it ok to not use them anymore? this may be a very basic question but I don't know what to do with all the lines that came out of the old air box.
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Post by mattwg on Apr 15, 2013 23:15:16 GMT -5
I've got the ground wire from the battery secured in two places (mine has two screw holes). I have been following the ground wires all over the place and have even checked in the harness wiring to see what goes where.
I don't understand why this ground wire would be hot! This is really weird. Is this something that people see occurring often? I don't know what to do about this...
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Post by mattwg on Apr 14, 2013 2:17:01 GMT -5
This must be serious. When I jump the solenoid I am getting voltage up the green ground wire from the stator. Several times now I have found the clear plastic sheath melting where this green wire from the stator connects to the corresponding green ground on the harness.
The only thing I can think of that may have caused a screw up in the wiring from the stator is when I was setting the timing belt after replacing the valves and accidentally rotated the stator backwards when trying to set top dead center. Would this have damaged wiring? I caught my wrong rotation and went on to set TDC by rotating the correct direction. I set timing very well in the end but made this rotation mistake at first.
I would check what is happening in the wiring to from the stator but I am not yet sure how to get that bolt off (how to stop the stator from turning while I turn the bolt loose).
Any commentary would be greatly appreciated. Would this have screwed up the grounding to other circuitry including the connection from the start button to the solenoid?
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Post by mattwg on Apr 12, 2013 23:56:36 GMT -5
Ok I just jumped the solenoid again by putting the main battery wire directly on the starter wire briefly with the ignition on. My headlight stopped as usual when starter turned but engine did not get going. The starter just turned. A worrying thing that happened was that a ground wire that I think is the ground wire to the stator got very hot where it clicks into the harness and melted the protective clear plastic surround over the connection! what does that mean?
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Post by mattwg on Apr 12, 2013 21:04:33 GMT -5
I'd already tested the solenoid wire with both my light tester and my multimeter when I posted this inquiry...
At this point it looks like this is not any kind of typically diagnosed problem. There must just be some random loose wire somewhere that people would never expect. I guess I'll just have to tear everything down to see every single connection and rewire it myself if needed. I was hoping to avoid that...
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Post by mattwg on Apr 11, 2013 21:14:53 GMT -5
Yes the brakes lights have always come on and I have plugged and unplugged the solenoid from the harness many times
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Post by mattwg on Apr 10, 2013 22:35:10 GMT -5
The reason I can get my starter motor to turn is because I jumped the starter strait off the battery to test if I had a working starter motor. The starter relay is supposed to be connecting the battery and starter when I press the button. I have the BMS v9 evo scooter. Is that what you have?
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