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Post by doublert on Apr 21, 2014 22:54:48 GMT -5
Ok, just found out that the bottom end on my scoot was knockin, so, my brother isgoing to start taking it apart tomorrow while I'm at work, and my buddy is going to take my whole motor to his shop where all his professional tools and goodys are, and do my crankshaft, and rebuild, hes even going to do port work on my head, clean up everything in parts cleaner, paint everything, and said hes going to do this thing up right, and he said I will be tickled $hitless! He said I'm going to have the baddest scooter in the county. He said I should be back riding around Wednesday or thursday but deff Fri!  Cant wait! |
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Post by doublert on Apr 21, 2014 21:20:30 GMT -5
I have a guy coming over to look at it tonight. He was a scooter mechanic in a city here in NC. My brother said he would do my stroker crank this weekend.
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Post by doublert on Apr 21, 2014 20:21:31 GMT -5
The knocking could be a flipped weight or worst case the crankshaft, but you have a replacement or is the stroker on it already. The weights are fine. Haven't done the stroker crank yet. It will try to turn over but just wont. I hooked it up to a guys truck with battery cables, and got it to crank and idle some, but it sounded rough. I have it on the battery charger now. I used the variator fan to turn the motor over, and it seems like it has compression. I don't know. This sucks bad! I started an awesome new job today, now this happens..... |
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Post by doublert on Apr 21, 2014 19:06:43 GMT -5
Scooter just broke down, everything was running just fine til now. My question is, could a thrown out weight in the variator cause it to suddenly stop and die? I can get it cranked and idling again, but there's some knocking around in the variator, that's why I figured a weight was thrown out of place.
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Post by doublert on Apr 19, 2014 23:09:46 GMT -5
Get out the sockets and take it apart, its not that hard you can do it. Millsc, Didn't you say that you did not use any gaskets with the spacer, just the spacer right? I got a scooter mechanic guy coming over to help me and my brother with the install tomorrow. |
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Post by doublert on Apr 18, 2014 20:18:57 GMT -5
Doublert, Just skip all the trash talk and forget about it, some people just do not know how things work and make up things because that is what they believe or just want to start a pissing match or because they don't like the person. But you can tell who is knowledgeable about things by how many people a person has helped with a scooter problem and actually solved it for them. You will like the NCY clutch, my trike is heavy 350lbs and I am 180lbs and the OEM was slipping and the pads were always getting glazed I got tired of taking the glaze off so I looked for a Clutch with lot of pad material and that is when I found the NCY clutch. Since that picture I posted I have almost 6K on that clutch and it is still hanging in there. The 250s are notorious glazing the pads but that is because most are very easy starting off and the scoots are heavy and they will shudder when starting off. What I tell them is take the glaze off and if you do not want to be doing this very often give it some rpms starting off so the pads grab good to get the dead weight moving then once the weight is moving forward you can back off the throttle. Alleyoop Ok, Thanks Alley |
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Post by doublert on Apr 18, 2014 9:53:58 GMT -5
All I asked for was what are the best clutches to go with, NCY, OKO, Dr. Pulley, Koso, etc. I hope Dr, Pulley Clutches are good, cause their Variators abloutely Suck . I paid $100 for a Dr. Pulley Variator, now it just sits in the box as a paper weight, and no one wants to buy it!
Anyhow, I went with the NCY 3rd Gen. Clutch again, and a Decompression tube to complement my BBK.
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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 13:31:30 GMT -5
It comes with a little stronger contra spring on it and the rpms needed to be around 3500 before they would be thrown out and grab the clutch bell. I did not like that so I put in the contra spring from the OEM clutch and now grabs the bell around 2300-2500 rpms which I like. Let me add that if you want stronger clutch pad springs the ones that everyone sells are to long they will not fit the NCY clutch so do not bother getting the colored springs everyone sells. You have to get NCY springs and they are hard to come by. Alleyoop I already have NCY 2k contra spring, currently I'm running the 1500 contra spring in my clutch now, with NCY 2k clutch springs. |
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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 13:07:17 GMT -5
I have the NCY clutch and BELL, bought it for the extra material on the pads, it grabs more of the bell less slippping. Alleyoop Ok, thats the one that I was going to order. what about secondary spring seat? Is it worth getting?   |
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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 10:39:14 GMT -5
Fixing to order some parts from SE. What is the best clutch? Anybody use a NCY secondary spring seat? Are clutches just the same with different springs in them? Or different fancy paint on them? The NCY 3rd has longer pads, just wondering. What do you use? Just want some input before I order.
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Post by doublert on Apr 17, 2014 8:46:22 GMT -5
Ok guys, My brother said that he would consider putting my crankshaft in, but I have to pay him. My brother did his bbk, and my bbk, and is a good mechanic, hes just never done crankshafts on these scooters before. My local scooter shop qouted me from $150-$200 for the install, is that expensive or about the right price for this project? Money is no option or a problem, I do not mind paying 150-200 to do this, but they won't seem to answer there phone or either too busy. Alley, Millsc, I sure wish some guys like you were near me, I would pay you $$. But anyways, if my brother is going to do this, I will need to know some questions. Can this be done without taking every single thing apart? I know the motor, (jug piston, head, chain, fan, flywheel, stator, clutch, variator, etc.) has to come out. I understand one engine case must be removed but do both engine cases have to come out? Does the back wheel have to come off? Nevermind just seen a good video of what needs to come apart, and dang, thats alot of crap that has to come apart! The video of Mo on Scrappydogs isnt of good visual quality. Well just got off the phone with local scooter shop, they won't touch an aftermarket crankshaft install. Another powersports place 50 miles away qouted me $300, Dang! I'm thinking about just not doing it now....
Thanks everyone,
Randy
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Post by doublert on Apr 16, 2014 8:21:15 GMT -5
Man, I wish some guys like you lived near me! I live in a small town and have nobody with experience on installing crankshafts, bbk's, gears, etc. My brother installed my bbk, and I watched him, so I'm pretty sure I could do that. As far as gears I have 15/36 NCY gears, but will need taller gears soon. Me and my brother are not going to attempt my stroker crank install, instead, the scooter shop about 30 miles from me, qouted me about $175 to install the crankshaft, so I guess thats the route I'm going to have to go.
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Post by doublert on Apr 12, 2014 22:39:47 GMT -5
I'm installing my new ncy intake as we speak, its the new red design. Is it ok not to use the plastic spacer thing to the head? So far I'm going as follow: Intake to gasket, and straight to head. I even cut more of the engine shroud for a better flushed seal. Is this ok? Cause my brother is arguing with me telling me I need that spacer put on. Btw, my head is the ncy 61mm big valve head. How do you guys do it? I did not and would not use the spacer Ok, I'm finished. It was a little tight cause of that stupid crossbar. I didnt use the spacer, just a matched gasket, and of coarse the O-ring that comes with the intake. cranked it, and it started fine. Is there any performance difference in these intakes, or just the fact that it is better quality built and no cracking like the oem? Btw, I got my 3mm Taida Stroker Crankshaft, Gasket set, and Spacer in yesterday. Cant wait til thats done! |
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Post by doublert on Apr 10, 2014 11:41:48 GMT -5
Hello all, I have looked for a good video of installing a stroker crank on a gy6 150, and cant seem to find a good one. Does anyone have one, or a clue? It looks like my mechanic guy isnt going to be in town for a month or two, so me and my brother are going to attempt this project. My brother did the BBK on mine, and his 50 vip, so I think he could probably do a stroker crank I would imagine. Also any help or tips from you guys would be great! Thanks, Randy[/quote Bump Need a good instructional video of the tear down and install of crankshaft. I want to do things right and have confidence with my stroker crankshaft install. |
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Post by doublert on Apr 6, 2014 15:23:25 GMT -5
My stock chain only had 600 miles on it at the time though yours with 10000 I ld replace it with a good quality  link chain. I've put around 400 miles on my stroker and taida cylinder kit it seems to be improving more and more with break in. I'm past the worry of the chain snapping now I believe it will hold up for many many miles. Walter is going to change my order Monday to the 3mm, I also asked him to exchange the 92 chain to the stock oem chain, I'd rather be safe putting a new one in, than using the old one. |
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link chain. I've put around 400 miles on my stroker and taida cylinder kit it seems to be improving more and more with break in. I'm past the worry of the chain snapping now I believe it will hold up for many many miles.