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150cc peace sports

Maybe I need a degree in ridiculous, but I can't make out as far as the programming of the Ecotrons kit. First, the program it came with does not jive at all with my scoot. Next, reading the manual, is like reading and engineering drawing of an engineer that has learned English as a second language. Finally, If you want to learn how to program, you have to skip around the text on the over 200+ pages and basically learn the abbreviations for simple things. Oh yea, don't forget, an O2 sensor is a Lambda sensor. If you want to view anything, you have to stop measuring then roll click something almost equivalent to writing DOS code, then start measuring. All you guys that think I'm dumb, that's fine but this is mildly ridiculous. I know now why this is not labeled a PnP system. The extra $50 I've had to drop in assorted odds and ends is stupid. Yet I continue to try...

f you notice, we have a completely different setup. You have the bubble type fuel pump kit. I have the small fuel pump. Check out the new instruction manual which includes routing and hook up of both systems.

this is what he sent me though



Matt of Ecotrons
Feb 27 (3 days ago)
to Support, me
Yes, MAP sensor is probably temporarily damaged by the fuel. MAP sensor has to be higher than the throttle body.
You can drill a hole on the top of the manifold and move the MAP sensor up there, if you have to run injector at the bottom.

Just about done. Everything it hooked up. I'm very disappointed in the fuel injection line. I will be replacing all of the clear with actual Gates fuel injection line, and the clamp with Ideal fuel injection clamps. Right now I'm just trying to get it to run and stop backfiring. Kinda sucks that you have to wait for emails which seem to come in around 10pm. I'm just ready to be done with this. Check out the pics below. I flipped the throttle body so it would actually fit but it meant I had to put the MAP sensor on the manifold. Fuel was backing up into the line.



I've done my best for wire management. The fuel pump has to move because the seat won't go back down. I could heat it with the heat gun and mold it around it but right now I can easily stuff a 12-pack under my seat and I don't want to compromise.


Another view from right to left.


A view from above the throttle body. A general mess. There are 3 wire connections here and 1 fuel line. Best advice I can give on this, is to buy a box of hose clamps before you do this and Get a 2 feet of 5/32" and 7/32" vacuum line. If you go to advance do not buy hose clamps off the shelf. Ask for a commercial pack that they keep in back and do not offer to the public. A box of 10 should cost you $4.



Up close of the map. HOOK EVERYTHING TO THE THROTTLE BODY BEFORE BOLTING DOWN THE MANIFOLD!!!!!!!
There is not a lot of room at this point to do anything without taking it in and out. Overall, this has been pretty good. I'm going to put together my receipts and put together a shopping list of any of you are interested in doing this. It's not that bad. You basically have to rip apart all of your plastics but the install itself is easy. It just takes longer if you want to go a little further and stretch things or add loom.

By the way, this is a 2012 Peace Dart 150. And yes it was new and cheap. And for that cheap price, I got tires that were not round.

I actually got the flanged throttle body and not the cvk so I'm waiting for the right throttle body and have been in a holding pattern for about a week. 'll let you know and will post plenty when I get it. I have rewired the MIL light because it was so short and used a light from an old car alarm to run it up to the gauges and I extended the performance switch and added a hard mount switch. I haven't done the 11 pole stator yet. I'm waiting to see the need.