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Post by chewbaca on Sept 4, 2017 11:35:03 GMT -5
Yea that happens to but not as often
I get good results cleaning out the switch with WD40
electric parts cleaner is ok as well if you happen to have a can
But the WD40 seams to make the plastic last longer
Dielectric grease seams to harden up in the dusty PHX heat
I have had to scrape off old stuff that looked like gummy plaster
I hope you have better luck with it
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Post by chewbaca on Sept 3, 2017 13:05:47 GMT -5
Not that the starter switch can't go bad
But it's very likely that the starter relay has started to stick
They get rusty inside and the OEM relay is soooo cheap
You can get a replacement relay at any auto parts store
Even the generic no name stuff is ten times better
Every China scooter I have ever had or worked on has that part go bad sooner than later
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Post by chewbaca on Sept 2, 2017 11:02:59 GMT -5
Insurance or safety ?? None. it works until it doesn't however it's a fail safe scenario. So if you don't catch it in time its fine no damage has occurred. But if you want a range 0.002 is for race day ripping around a track at 9000 plus RPM trying to avoid valve float. 0.006 would be your kids scooter with a rev limiter
And you don't want to be wrenching on it all the time
The TI retainers I got were to stock spec on the critical surface
It was ez to feel the difference in weight even with only my fingers.
I prefer a little bit lower spring tension
I get back the lost valve control range by having lighter valve train components. So I dished my valves and trimmed and polished my rocker arms
There is a LOT of room for improvement in the OEM valve train components.
Someone is probably going going squawk at me
But I managed to get better that stock RPM with only an outer valve spring. The inner spring was broken and I didn't have a replacement.
If you do that with stock valve train components the intake valve starts to float @ 5000 RPM
I was pushing 8000 RPM before I got a little bit of float.
I think that after I got my new set of springs I might have had a 1400 RPM capable motor. But I never went fast enough to test that.
I never did get to find out how fast that scooter was before it was stolen 😖
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Post by chewbaca on Sept 1, 2017 18:55:01 GMT -5
It depends do you want to rip around on a screaming RPM demon. Or do you want to cruze a thumper
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Variater
by: chewbaca - Sept 1, 2017 0:58:54 GMT -5
mike5 likes this
Post by chewbaca on Sept 1, 2017 0:58:54 GMT -5
Sounds like a roller got jammed and the veriator is not opening
An impact wrench is a very ez way to pop of a variator
And if your going to work on a scooter its a must have tool
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Post by chewbaca on Sept 1, 2017 0:36:12 GMT -5
5000 to 10000 miles is what I have been seeing for a first valve adjustment and about 20% longer before the next
It depends on the quality of the head
The .001 or .002 plus .003 is how you get to the .004 thousandths
gap that is so popular.
It's a very good number a Goldilocks type of number.
Wile you can add more it will cost in added wear
And adding less will wear less on your head but you'll need to do more frequent valve adjustments
On my last scooter i had titanium valve spring retainers and dished valves
This helped me a lot it gave me better high RPM valve performance AND reliability was improved as their was less mass getting hammered about
You can't buy a dished valve tho you have to do it yourself
I would be a PITA to do on its own but as part of a needed valve grind it was not to bad
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 31, 2017 12:02:39 GMT -5
On setting valve gap
Ideally there is almost zero gap between the cam lobe and the rocker arm when the motor is hot. Just enough for a thin layer of oil and nothing more
That's where you get the most valve lift and least float and wear
Unfortunately this wonderful ideal lasts about a week under lite use and moderate RPM and then the great power starts to just get dumped out your pipe
Cased by a failing exhaust valve seal
The exhaust valve is bigger gets hotter and is dealing with a more abrasive medium so it goes first. Soon after that, the seal is bad enough to cause cold starting problems.
In my experience a new stock motor loses about .4 to .6 thousandths a month that's .0004 or .0006 of an inch
And a valve will grow a thousandth or two more than than the head will when heated to normal operational temperature
So you add in the extra valve gap you need to compensate for thermal expansion and a few more thousandths so you don't have to do it again in a month
And now you have all the information you need to know what your doing with a valve job
The how can be found on YouTube
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 30, 2017 17:21:36 GMT -5
 !!! You purchased new plastick? I hate all that rattly bass crap 😝 yuck I get rid of it as soon as it breaks |
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 30, 2017 17:13:13 GMT -5
We got some shade here in phx I just ignored the out of the eclipse though
Didn't even go outside
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 30, 2017 16:58:26 GMT -5
The stock carb on a gy6 150 is actually pretty darn good. It would probably be big enough for a 250 if it was geared tall
The only thing I don't like about it is the auto choke
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 30, 2017 10:38:53 GMT -5
I think I understand the idea
unfortunately the math is bad
The veriator fan will only ever spin twice for each opening of the intake. Assuming perfect performance of the fan it's just about enough to fill the combustion chamber with no compression...But you can't get perfect performance
And the fan is hot so the power would be than worse stock
I think if you had a much bigger fan, maybe twice the diameter and not hot that might do something for power
If... you're thinking of cooling the CVT with suction from the engine
No, do not do that
Just don't
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 29, 2017 22:31:41 GMT -5
I have ridden in the heavy monsoon rain with an open CVT cover
Nothing to it. No different than dry weather
Well......... Except it was miserable
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 29, 2017 22:01:07 GMT -5
I don't know for sure about Hoca but it seems to be at least one step ahead of stock My guess would be stock parts that have been cleaned up balanced and some what upgraded If you want the real shic slit check out PASSWORD.JDM Some of that stuff is drool worthy I personally believe that this is the best ankle biter drive pulley on the market passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-GY6-Power-Pulley-Type-I-P8762C483.aspx |
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 27, 2017 20:58:08 GMT -5
It will not make a lot of difference the spring in question is rather linear and has a lot of extra play
And the bearing is thin
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 27, 2017 20:40:22 GMT -5
The racing clutch that most sell is just a stock clutch with a shine
If you want to get serious about your scoot and get real improvement get a good scale at least as accurate a gram
Trimming the clutch weights is a far more reliable way to raise the RPM of the clutch grab than the playing the eBay lottery Hoping to get good quality springs. I have three different colors sets of spring sitting in box with identical to stock strength
Big wast of time and money
Oh and I recommend not trusting that big brass nut if it's been mucked up
A hole new stock clutch is like 30$
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