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Post by jjt on Aug 27, 2017 2:41:03 GMT -5
I am making one thread to ask both of these questions. First I plan on eventually doing a 180cc bbk but I'm wondering if there is a service manual out there for the gy6. I'm mostly interested in it for the torque specs but since this is a motor I haven't ever messed with it would be nice to have for all the info a service manual provides. I'm having a lot of fun with this little thing and I'm trying to see how much speed I can get out of it before actually messing with internals. With the new exhaust and dialing in the jetting it hit 57mph. My goal is 60 on the stock motor. This leads me to my 2nd question. How far are you guys revving your stock gy6 150? Not once but on a regular basis. I don't mind if it blows up but if I can avoid it by not doing something stupid like over revving it, I will.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:41:14 GMT -5
I have a valley/hill to go thru to get to town so I make a run for it....7,200-7,400 everyday. Be very Picky with your Valve Lash..... My current CVT tune, I GPS'd her at 64.8 mph@7,400rpm, and yes she is Bone Stock internals. There is a whole bunch of speed to be had in a properly tuned CVT. One need to know ere to look.. Check that Belt Climb on the Vari. there is much to gain and lose there.. Good luck
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:46:33 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 6:54:05 GMT -5
One thing on above 60mph speed on my Hunter Phantom style scoot, The Forks have only one clamp and this ride is a really sketchy getting scary ride at those speeds. It really wasn't fun, to the point of just darn dangerous.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 27, 2017 8:22:11 GMT -5
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Post by jjt on Aug 27, 2017 9:05:28 GMT -5
Thanks for that link piston. Looks like I have more left in there than I thought. I haven't tried to tuck yet I'm trying to get 60 in a normal riding position. That may not happen unless I try a downhill speed run lol. Hopefully today or tomorrow I can check the variator to see how high the belt is going. I haven't checked it since putting the dr pulley variator on. I want to try the lighter sliders as well. I was wondering when I was going to hit speeds where it started feeling unsafe. I haven't pulled my forks yet to see if they are serviceable.(I haven't done any research on it yet either). If they are I thought about seeing if I could add a touch more preload. I think I'm a bit heavier than the average guy that Yamaha assumed would be riding a 50 lol. Honestly at the speeds I'm hitting so far it feels rock solid and even as small as the front brake is , I am very impressed with the braking power.
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Post by jjt on Aug 27, 2017 9:12:31 GMT -5
Btw I am going to be doing a valve adjustment soon. I seen in the link you posted where the one guy said 4-6. You said be very picky on the valve adjustment. Did you find something that worked a little better ? Typically if I seen these specs I would set at 4. But I would also run it hard and check it again while it was still as hot as possible to make sure I wasn't closing that gap to much when hot.
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Post by jjt on Aug 27, 2017 21:50:31 GMT -5
Hey man I just seen the link for the gy6 manual. That's awesome thanks
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Post by jjt on Aug 27, 2017 21:59:52 GMT -5
I downloaded that speedometer app and done 2 runs today.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 28, 2017 6:32:36 GMT -5
I downloaded that speedometer app and done 2 runs today. Cool beans, your getting there..
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Post by jjt on Aug 28, 2017 15:25:26 GMT -5
Yes sir. Appreciate the help
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Post by oldchopperguy on Aug 30, 2017 23:20:46 GMT -5
I have a valley/hill to go thru to get to town so I make a run for it....7,200-7,400 everyday. Be very Picky with your Valve Lash..... My current CVT tune, I GPS'd her at 64.8 mph@7,400rpm, and yes she is Bone Stock internals. There is a whole bunch of speed to be had in a properly tuned CVT. One need to know ere to look.. Check that Belt Climb on the Vari. there is much to gain and lose there.. Good luck Pistonguy, Here's one WE can TOTALLY agree on! Have a bone...On my old Xingyue 150 I had your same results. Getting the CVT just right made more difference than anything else. These GY6 engines do put out around 1hp per cubic inch, which is decent. Tweaking the CVT tranny allows you to get the most from that approx. 10hp... Each scoot is different, but tweaking the CVT is probably more rewarding than most other "mods"... especially the roller-weights. I traded "Lil' Bubba" on my "new" old Kymco before having a chance to try sliders, but from posts I've seen, they may be better than rollers for all-round performance by allowing the belt to more fully use the entire variator. The CVT tranny may not be the absolute best setup ever devised, but it's simple, easy to work on and still works extremely well, especially when you take time to get it all "optimal"... Ride safe,Leo in Texas
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 31, 2017 4:46:57 GMT -5
I have a valley/hill to go thru to get to town so I make a run for it....7,200-7,400 everyday. Be very Picky with your Valve Lash..... My current CVT tune, I GPS'd her at 64.8 mph@7,400rpm, and yes she is Bone Stock internals. There is a whole bunch of speed to be had in a properly tuned CVT. One need to know ere to look.. Check that Belt Climb on the Vari. there is much to gain and lose there.. Good luck Pistonguy, Here's one WE can TOTALLY agree on! Have a bone...On my old Xingyue 150 I had your same results. Getting the CVT just right made more difference than anything else. These GY6 engines do put out around 1hp per cubic inch, which is decent. Tweaking the CVT tranny allows you to get the most from that approx. 10hp... Each scoot is different, but tweaking the CVT is probably more rewarding than most other "mods"... especially the roller-weights. I traded "Lil' Bubba" on my "new" old Kymco before having a chance to try sliders, but from posts I've seen, they may be better than rollers for all-round performance by allowing the belt to more fully use the entire variator. The CVT tranny may not be the absolute best setup ever devised, but it's simple, easy to work on and still works extremely well, especially when you take time to get it all "optimal"... Ride safe,Leo in Texas ........
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Post by chewbaca on Aug 31, 2017 12:02:39 GMT -5
On setting valve gap
Ideally there is almost zero gap between the cam lobe and the rocker arm when the motor is hot. Just enough for a thin layer of oil and nothing more That's where you get the most valve lift and least float and wear Unfortunately this wonderful ideal lasts about a week under lite use and moderate RPM and then the great power starts to just get dumped out your pipe Cased by a failing exhaust valve seal The exhaust valve is bigger gets hotter and is dealing with a more abrasive medium so it goes first. Soon after that, the seal is bad enough to cause cold starting problems.
In my experience a new stock motor loses about .4 to .6 thousandths a month that's .0004 or .0006 of an inch And a valve will grow a thousandth or two more than than the head will when heated to normal operational temperature
So you add in the extra valve gap you need to compensate for thermal expansion and a few more thousandths so you don't have to do it again in a month
And now you have all the information you need to know what your doing with a valve job
The how can be found on YouTube
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 31, 2017 23:17:45 GMT -5
On setting valve gap Ideally there is almost zero gap between the cam lobe and the rocker arm when the motor is hot. Just enough for a thin layer of oil and nothing more That's where you get the most valve lift and least float and wear Unfortunately this wonderful ideal lasts about a week under lite use and moderate RPM and then the great power starts to just get dumped out your pipe Cased by a failing exhaust valve seal The exhaust valve is bigger gets hotter and is dealing with a more abrasive medium so it goes first. Soon after that, the seal is bad enough to cause cold starting problems. In my experience a new stock motor loses about .4 to .6 thousandths a month that's .0004 or .0006 of an inch And a valve will grow a thousandth or two more than than the head will when heated to normal operational temperature So you add in the extra valve gap you need to compensate for thermal expansion and a few more thousandths so you don't have to do it again in a month And now you have all the information you need to know what your doing with a valve job The how can be found on YouTube K, Chewy ya gotta keep it going now. So then how many months, hours or miles is the new stock take to set to spec and not have to adjust valve lash every month? So correct me, if my spec is .004" your saying I should add .002" for thermal expansion then another Few, thats .003" more so my corrected lash is now .009"?
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