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Post by nulldevice on Apr 2, 2015 10:15:08 GMT -5
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 2, 2015 10:07:11 GMT -5
Brakes were a big part of the consideration when I settled upon the Aprilia 250 since it was a 326 lb bike with the same brakes with twin discs up front as the 416 lb 500 cc Scarabeo. With a good tire up front you can do wheel stands. That is GREAT! Back in the day, brakes weren't much of a consideration because they ALL sucked... We just accepted it. I'm glad these new bikes have REAL brakes! Your day is farther back than mine. At least I had dual leading shoe drum brakes that would haul me down from 60 to 0 in about 150 feet or so. Of course I needed forearms like Popeye to be able to do it. You are right though, compared to mechanical brakes the hydraulic disc brake was a revolution in braking performance and ease of use in motorcycles. |
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Post by nulldevice on Mar 30, 2015 21:00:30 GMT -5
With the trailer wheel all the way I can't get any significant load behind the trailer axle to cause sway. The geometry is more like a fifth wheel trailer. When the wheel was farther forward like the first iteration of the trailer I did get tail wagging, generally at speeds in excess of 65 MPH or pushing too hard into curves -- a really exciting terrifying experience when surrounded by rush hour traffic or in a sharp curve with oncoming traffic.
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Post by nulldevice on Mar 30, 2015 14:13:08 GMT -5
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Post by nulldevice on Mar 29, 2015 23:22:50 GMT -5
It was a long cold winter in NE Ohio this year so I redid the TMAX trailer to keep from getting cabin fever. s1359.photobucket.com/user/42nulldevice42/media/Hitch%20and%20Trailer%20Modifications/DSCN0231.JPGnew_zpsuy2hjtmn.jpg.htmlI relocated and reoriented the hitch to take the hitch off the scooter axle, moved the wheel all the way back and lowered the box as low as I could at the wheel which improved towing a lot. This lowered the center of gravity of the trailer is much closer to the line from the hitch connection to the real wheel pavement contact. The trailer no longer acts like a badly behaved, frightened passenger. |
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Post by nulldevice on May 17, 2014 21:21:22 GMT -5
OK,OK trolls, I'll bite. You scooters put out power beyond all reason. What I really think is any or all of the below: 1. You are looking at the kilometers per hour scale 2. Have an uncorrected speedometer that reads 10 to 20 percent too fast 3. With a motor that has been modified from stock 4. You live in Florida, and don't have a clue what a real hill is, or have forgotten. Or, you have found your way to Xanth. That's it from me, I'm done with this thread. Have fun, trolls.  |
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Post by nulldevice on May 17, 2014 20:28:22 GMT -5
If he was talking about a 50cc I could understand upgrading. Being that he has a 150cc his weight shouldn't be a issue when he gets the cvt tuned right for his size and terrain. Thats a fact jack  For a heavy rider the upgrade speed sounds about right to me. Living where there are hills, and having played with variator weights on a 150 scoot I had, I didn't gain that much and the higher RPMs killed the motor rather quickly. I assure you weight is the biggest issue there is when going up hill. A 260 pound rider is going to go up hill one heck of a lot slower than a 130 pound rider regardless of the variator tuning. My experience showed if you are large and want to go up long, steep hills at 50 MPH or more the cheap way to go is sell the 150 and get a 250cc class scooter or larger. Start messing with the carburetor, exhaust, variator weights and clutch springs or whatever may be fun if you like garage time, know what you are doing, have the tools and place to work on it, but it tends to shorten the life of a motor that was running well before you started "fixing" it for very little gain. Still, I had fun doing it.  |
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Post by nulldevice on May 15, 2014 20:57:51 GMT -5
For cars and light trucks, the recommended gross loaded trailer weight without brakes should not exceed 1/3 of the weight of the tow vehicle. That seems to work well for the camper trailer I built for my Ford Taurus and for the trailer I built for my Yamaha TMAX.
Experience has shown me the sagacity of that limit. That way you don't get the tail wagging the dog, and hill climbing and braking capacity is acceptable.
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Post by nulldevice on May 15, 2014 20:33:45 GMT -5
Don't modify the scooter to get more adjustment length, get a chain breaker and remove a link, or two. That's what I did back in the day when I had chain driven bikes.
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Post by nulldevice on May 15, 2014 20:00:11 GMT -5
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My new toy
by: nulldevice - May 15, 2014 10:32:24 GMT -5
Post by nulldevice on May 15, 2014 10:32:24 GMT -5
700 pounds behind the scoot? Wow, just wow. When you haul large loads your clutch must glow bright yellow on an uphill start. Coming to a stop must take forever, and your brakes probably glow on downhill stops too.  |
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Post by nulldevice on May 12, 2014 10:33:47 GMT -5
There are different levels of heat resistant paint. Be sure to get the highest temperature one meant for exhaust headers.
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Post by nulldevice on May 12, 2014 10:28:48 GMT -5
The "threaded part", which is really a gear, goes into the housing and meshes with the gear inside. When you put it all back together, make sure the tabs go into the slots on the wheel hub.
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Post by nulldevice on May 12, 2014 10:24:55 GMT -5
The solution is to use whatever pressure on the back brake you are comfortable with, and use the front brake. After your hand heals, continue to use the front brake. That is where a large majority of your stopping power is.
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Post by nulldevice on May 7, 2014 9:50:28 GMT -5
Title?
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