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Post by nulldevice on Jan 9, 2016 21:54:57 GMT -5
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 9, 2016 19:53:17 GMT -5
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 1, 2016 15:49:56 GMT -5
Not knowing what the loud clicking sound it could involve much more that just a cylinder rebuild kit. I agree with rocknv, it would most likely be cheaper to buy a new scooter, especially since what you have still runs. You could sell it to help pay for the new scooter.
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 19, 2015 23:17:55 GMT -5
I am in the early stages of setting up a slow speed gymkhana event. I did it once before for just the club I run with and it was a success. We needed more games though.
The games I have in mind:
Slow race with the lanes getting narrower with each elimination round
The U-turn squeeze with the box getting narrower as eliminations continue
The spiral of death. Starting with a 15 foot radius and getting 5 gallon bucket diameter times pi narrower with each lap
The ever tightening chicane of pain. Weave between cones that keep getting closer and closer together.
Brake test! The problem is getting consistent speed from the riders as they enter the stopping box.
Any other game ideas? Keep in mind it is meant to be a slow contest, not a speed one and there are very few riding double since most of the women have their own scooters.
One final thing -- is handicapping do-able? My Majesty 400 can do a U turn in well under 20 feet, my TMAX could barely do it, and those on the 650 Burgmans . . . well, there is an old Country Western song "Give me 40 Acres . . ."
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 16, 2015 18:33:32 GMT -5
Your goal seems to be better lighting and you seem to have met your goal. Good luck on regulator life. You removed about 60 watts of load and the regulator now needs to dissipate 60 more watts of heat to keep the voltage controlled. To appreciate the heat load added to the regulator, turn on a 60 watt incandescent bulb for five minutes and feel the heat. Good luck to you. My luck wasn't. Do you have a Burgman with the modern regulator or a Chinese Scooter that has the less reliable shunt-type regulators. One of the best upgrades one can do if the have a problematic shunt-type regulator when it keeps failing is to upgrade it to the more modern MOSFET type from say a Honda or Suzuki. The Shindengen FH012AA is the model that appears to be a popular choice for this upgrade. The stator should also run cooler with a MOSFET regulator and last longer as should the battery. The Burgman has a permanent magnet alternator. This means the alternator generates at its full capacity all the time. If you use a regulator that isn't a shunt regulator the extra current winds up circulating in the stator coils and heating them up. The Shindegen regulator is a shunt regulator. The choice of MOSFETs or BJTs or just a big zener diode is of no consequence. The reliability and temperature rise is in the design, execution of the design, and quality control system, at which the Chinese manufacturers are notoriously bad. I wound up building shunt regulators for my Chinese scooters myself. NPN or PNP transistors, N channel or P channel MOSFETS, it didn't matter. They worked well, they didn't fail. It is the choice of beefy components and generous heat sinking that makes the difference. |
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 14, 2015 19:04:54 GMT -5
Your goal seems to be better lighting and you seem to have met your goal. Good luck on regulator life.
You removed about 60 watts of load and the regulator now needs to dissipate 60 more watts of heat to keep the voltage controlled. To appreciate the heat load added to the regulator, turn on a 60 watt incandescent bulb for five minutes and feel the heat. Good luck to you. My luck wasn't.
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 11, 2015 13:56:32 GMT -5
Where are you finding the room to put your ring inside the flywheel? There are a bunch of wire coils in there for running and charging the electrics.Are you removing the stator and running a full loss electric and ignition system?
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 9, 2015 20:00:07 GMT -5
Have you checked the coolant temperature gauge against a known good one? You may not really have a cooling problem. I had a stock one that read much higher than what the temperature really was. I bought one of these www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LCD-Display-Temperature-Meter-Gague-2Meter-Length-Waterproof-Probe-/251749747034?hash=item3a9d74495a:g:32oAAOxycmBS3-iJBefore I put it on the scooter I dunked the sensor into a pan of boiling water for a few minutes to see what it read at 100 C and used the correction for all readings. I epoxied the sensor to the radiator tank near the return hose and took a long, fast ride. Thus I discovered I really had no heat problem. Too bad you have such severe restrictions. I hope in return you have a much lower traffic injury and death rate. |
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 9, 2015 18:27:56 GMT -5
You need to add the same wattage load to the electrical system that you removed by going with LED lights. Otherwise you are adding load to the regulator and running it hotter. This makes regulator failure probable if you don't.
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Post by nulldevice on Dec 9, 2015 18:05:26 GMT -5
d-damn  I'd say
I guess i'm going to have to tear down to the weights and throw them on a digital scale to see what ive got before I order--I have the means
its when/if I throw this uni type pod filter on is when ive got to start paying attention and not do anything permanent I guess
I guess i'll see how it acts when that filter gets here
thanks again for your input 
When you start mucking around with the intake and exhaust you will likely need to change the carburettor jetting as well. Rather than buy a bunch of different main jets I had a set of really tiny number sized drills and a pin vise. It works this way -- find the largest drill size that goes through the jet then drill it out with the next larger drill bit and try it out. Keep drilling bigger and bigger until you lose performance. Solder the jet closed, back down one drill size and drill the jet to your final size. Of course, this makes sense only if you have the drills and pin vise/Xacto knife handle already. |
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Post by nulldevice on Nov 27, 2015 19:21:34 GMT -5
....i bet we can do it here. east coast riders west coast riders And once again the MidWest is totally ignored. Sigh. Always the bridesmaid, never the scoot meet-up. Or something.  Seriously, there's several in the KC area (albeit on opposite sides), and we do have honkin' good bbq. That alone should merit mention for a meet up!.... >'Kat Yes, and the North Coast is ignored. It's probably unknown outside the immediate area as well. |
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Police
by: nulldevice - Nov 11, 2015 23:05:18 GMT -5
Post by nulldevice on Nov 11, 2015 23:05:18 GMT -5
Keep it up. Eventually they will take your license and impound your scooter.
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Post by nulldevice on Nov 5, 2015 22:48:08 GMT -5
All the used scooters for sale used in my area are 49cc. If I wanted a 500 pound scooter I'd rather keep my 500 pound Scrambler. I live in a small city with some nice country roads. The Kymco is rated at 29 hp and reviewers say it will do 80. Dry weight is 364 . The main by pass 4 later has a 60 mph limit. Anyone want to buy my 150 Wolf Blaze for $1100 in Roanoke Va Cool, that is only a few HP less than my Majesty and sounds good for what you want. Do enjoy whatever you find when you get it. In reference to "classic" motorcycles. I looked the word up and found the word classic has a zillion different meanings depending on context. My classic was of enduring original design. I think you used it as based on a classic design. In all truthfulness, I hope your Triumph only looked much like the 1060s bike. It would numb your hands, eat batteries and headlight bulbs from the vibration, was noisy as all get out, and had a clunky shifting transmission. It was fun trying to keep the oil inside the motor and off the garage floor and the electric system by Lucas, lord of darkness, was a trip too. It's no wonder the Japanese ran the whole British motor cycle industry out of business. How much things can change in half a century. |
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Post by nulldevice on Nov 4, 2015 19:02:36 GMT -5
Can buy a new 2012 for $3400 plus tax and tags. Just bought a Wolf 150 which is a bit disappointing but willing to sell it at a loss. Still learning but I'm addicted the 300 should be all I need, not interested in the Goldwings type luxo scooters. Seems like the Kymco is a a great deal for the tech, quality and performance from in town to 2 up and even the 65mph highways. Any advice appreciated. It will also replace my 500 pound Triumph. At age 65 it's time to ditch overweight classics Think about a used 400cc Majesty or Burgman instead. You can find ridiculously low mileage ones for about that much. I just bought my 2012 Majesty 400 for about $3500 plus tax, tags, and title with about 2100 miles on it. I'm a big fellow, over 300 pounds and over 6 ft tall. About as much load as two average size people. I went with a 400cc scooter for the following reasons, and I'm glad I did. 1. A 300 cc motor isn't that much bigger than a 250cc motor. 2. Many highways have higher speed limits than 65 MPH 3. Most of the time the actual traffic speed is five to fifteen MPH faster than the speed limit. 4. Head winds are a fact of life. 5. Up hill grades are too. 6. If you aren't into doing your own wrenching they have a large, long established nation wide dealership network and parts distribution system. The only clinker is the 400cc machines weigh close to 500 pounds, but the over 70 contingent of the A C W Scooter Club seem to have no problems handling their maxi scooters. Ask the dealer to let you move one around and see how it works for you. 500 pound classic Triumph? What are you calling a classic Triumph? A 1970 Bonneville weighed 363 pounds. Replace the battery with a few large capacitors in parallel (the vibration ate batteries) and it would weigh less than 350 pounds. www.classic-british-motorcycles.com/1970-triumph-bonneville.html |
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Post by nulldevice on Oct 25, 2015 18:05:54 GMT -5
Not my way at all. Put it away with a full tank of fuel and then leave it alone until you are ready to ride it.
All those cold starts in cold weather without a load on it and no miles (shudder). Not a good thing for the motor.
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