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Post by beenriding on Aug 13, 2015 14:03:04 GMT -5
I'm going with the alarm, thanks for the link I got an under 20$ one.. And an Abus cable lock, it might slow em down.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 13, 2015 12:37:48 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing the resolve with us. often in this and its friends forums you find out the solution to posted problems. I'm on other forums Blah Blah , I just got it back from the shop. John I've been reading a LOT of older posts here, many of them trail off with no resolution to the issue. There's a lot of people still asking for help getting their scooter started from two years ago. Maybe if a post is irrelevant, (had no solution or participation) it could get deleted? Having so many issue's resolved here is a great. But needs some cleaning up.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 13, 2015 9:05:24 GMT -5
Oh yea, that's a beautiful ride, and their factory is quite impressive!
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Post by beenriding on Aug 13, 2015 1:19:52 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing the resolve with us.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 20:26:29 GMT -5
The higher the DOT rating the more heat and pressure it can withstand, you'll be fine with 3. I knew a guy once said 'Safety is no accident', whatever that means......
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 18:42:41 GMT -5
Thank you, I think it's funny how they call 300cc scooters 'mid-size' now. 250's used to be called maxi-scooters!
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 17:55:23 GMT -5
Howdy Horace, I've only worked on a front disk system once. My fluid was also blackish and seemed very watery for brake fluid. Your seals are probably shot, think it'd be easiest to replace the whole caliper unit and flush it good. Then use a real brake fluid to fill it up with. New seals would probably cost 1/2 as much as the unit, and then you gotta play with it. Orrr, you could try to take it all apart, clean it real good with brake clean and rebuild it. Unless those seals are indeed broken then it's a replace. But first try just replacing ALL the tea they put in there as brake fluid and pump it thru, bleed it out good. You do know how to bleed brakes? Maybe just replacing the old fluid and evacuating the air will work. Good luck.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 15:08:13 GMT -5
I've been seeing the prices of most all scooter parts come down in the last few years.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 7:43:00 GMT -5
If you do not have an air filter installed you wont create enough vacuum to open fuel petcock. If it starts by spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner like piston guy says, this is most certainly your problem.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 7:34:35 GMT -5
"Not wanting to wear around a leather jacket in June, I hit on sleeping with it",
When I first got my mesh jacket this spring I liked it so much I wanted to sleep with it, the wife said no. Man I thought we had an open relationship!
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Post by beenriding on Aug 12, 2015 7:24:39 GMT -5
For some reason when I ordered the correct part in the pictures online it shows the intake tube bolted to the head and clamped on the carb. That is some type of error because all of the elite ch80s are bolted to the head and the carb. In order to get to either inside nut to unloosen the back wheel has to come off. Well unless you have a 3 inch long open end wrench then you would have enough room to take it off at the head first. And Sockets are to fat and won't fit between the nut and the intake tube. Sounds a lot like my Honda NB50, the inner carb mount bolt was designed by Satan.. I had a 8mm wrench that I could get maybe a 1/4 turn on, then flip the wrench over, another 1/4 turn. This scooter also had a similar hit a bump cut out for just a second. Only on really stout bumps though. I'm sure it was an ignition issue, it just wasn't that bad so I never resolved it.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 11, 2015 22:02:58 GMT -5
My scoot runs both bulbs at the same time for low beams AND high beams when I press the button for high beams to come on. What will happen when I press the scoots high beam button? Anything? Dunno how yours is wired. If you put an 11-pole in you don't need to worry about it. What I did was put in a little bank of illuminated switches. Have flashers on both the LED driving light and the low beam. With 4 switches i can control exactly as I want - low beam either steady or flashing; driving either steady of flashing. And - flip the high beam switch on and regardless of the rocker switches I instantly get steady high (which i use at night). Nice set up!!
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Post by beenriding on Aug 11, 2015 22:01:29 GMT -5
This is what i bought. m.ebay.com/itm/141693392435 I figure I can wire my scooters existing wires to the tabs on my new h4 35w 12v bulbs and expect them to work and not melt my housing. Does anyone see any problems with this? I know that they will fit in the existing holes with the metal clips no problem. Getting rid of that original bulb is a good idea, and I like rcq92130's idea about changing out the socket. Those original scooter bulbs don't last, this seems like good way away around it.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 11, 2015 17:08:01 GMT -5
Reflex is a sweet ride! Say howdy to your wife too.
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Post by beenriding on Aug 11, 2015 16:59:54 GMT -5
I'm am soo happy, Now to get her back in a decent tune ( forgive me if I don't respond for a while) I have an old toy to play with!!!!!! THANK YOU ALL!!! Beenriding is my new HERO!!!!! Never doubt this man Aw shucks, just lying here in bed.... Just glad you got it going! It's all about the ride.
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