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Post by thecollector on Jul 14, 2016 22:53:48 GMT -5
I purchased the NCY super trans kit. I was hoping to get it done today but ran into some obstacles. I got the case off and the 17mm nuts on both sides would not budge. All the tricks were tried and it was especially frustrating because I had bought a cordless drill/impact set to help with this job and the driver failed at its "one job." It just is not strong enough for this job. I finally got a buddy's bigger corded unit and they got off.
Began cleaning it up and was looking forward to disassembling the clutch assembly. I had bought a 39mm impact socket because ALL 150cc gy6 clutch nuts are 39mm across. Not mine, it's about 42mm across. I have friend coming over now who has some better tools and it looks like we're gonna go the "hard way."
I'll post again when I make more progress.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Jul 8, 2016 11:07:56 GMT -5
Jug is what you'd commonly refer to as cylinder, me it's a jug. Thanks for the refresher on the cash grab known as motor vehicle code but being an "adult" I am fully aware of actions vs. consequences. I too could have bought a 150 but it is easier to hop up a big body 50 than it is to find Someone willing to give me a certificate of origin stating the 150 is a 50. Besides who wants to pay the state for a "legal" 150 when you could buy speed parts with the money saved on an "illegal" 50. With the utmost certainty I will crash, eventually. I had an epic crash with my gas engine bicycle but that's for another forum... Let's face it if you get caught doing 50 in a 35 on or in anything you're just stupid anyway. Thanks for the welcomes, I'm looking forward to links and information on quick and easy mods on how to make my 50 quicker and faster for the summer, seeing I am not versed in scooters yet, So I can possibly crash at breakneck speed, Until I go full rouge "illegal" and swap out for bigger displacement . Anyone else wanna chime in? Cool. I can see you're not stupid and you know what you're doing. I feel better that I gave you a warning just in case you might have overlooked something. Perhaps you overlooked what I said about jet, airbox, variator and exhaust but I'm sure people will "chime in" will all those links and information. Good Luck. |
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Post by thecollector on Jul 7, 2016 13:21:34 GMT -5
Congratulations on the new scoot. There are many who are on this board that have much more experience than I do. I have a 150cc that has been modified quite a bit and goes much faster than it did bone stock.
Please do not take this the wrong way. You remind me a bit of someone in my scooter group who got a 50cc but wants it to go faster than it does. He wrecked his and just bought another. He had the chance to get a bigger one, and actually could have saved some money, but he has it in his mind that he wants a 50cc but just a really fast one.
The way the 50cc's are set up is that they are designed to conform to DMV laws so they will not exceed 40 mph. If you did get yours to exceed 40 mph, and you can fairly easily, you are technically breaking the law. I just want you to know that. Hypothetically, if a cop caught you going 50 mph in a 35 mph zone and you did not have motorcycle plates and a motorcycle endorsed driver's license you could be in a heap of trouble.
I'll also mention I have another friend who has a few scoots and has modified his Honda Metropolitan (and he's lowered it, too) that is really cool and goes pretty fast. He's an adult, we don't tell him he's doing something wrong, but he knows it and seems willing to take that amount of risk.
When you say "jug" do you mean a different carburetor? Sounds like you are on the right track. However, based on my experience and my friend's with the Metro, there are other ways to achieve more speed. The same carb with a larger main jet coupled with a less restrictive airbox go together. The ratio of fuel and air should be about the same as before, but more of both. My experience is that an improved exhaust does wonders. Also an upgrade to the CVT's variator, I'm told, is one of the best upgrades you can do to a 50cc.
Anyone else want to chime in?
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Jul 3, 2016 12:05:42 GMT -5
I would like to hear some more opinions in this area. The recent changes I have made have exaggerated the typical suspension scenario; too soft up front and too stiff in the rear. Now it seems to whip a bit too much front to rear. I would like to get some better shocks for the rear but don't want to throw money away.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Jun 27, 2016 20:51:14 GMT -5
During the last High Desert Gathering I won a gift certificate from Pirate Upholstery. My scoot wasn't running at the time and I was unsure if I would ever get around to using it. I wound up recommitting to this project, turned it around, and decided I wanted a new seat to finish it off. Here is what I had...  And this is it with the new seat...  I love it. I tried my best to match the colors of my wheels and graphics and they are not really exact. It actually matches the pod filter better. They said they were going to move the driver seat area back about two inches; it feels like much more. At 6'2" I never was completely comfortable on it but now it feels like I have a solid three point (hands, butt, feet) position without feeling cramped. The new riding position will take a bit of seat time (  ) to get used to, but I AM going to enjoy that. Their prices are on the expensive side but the quality of work is top notch. I recommend them unequivocally. |
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Jun 26, 2016 15:13:13 GMT -5
When I planned on doing several upgrades this Summer I had slotted the oil change in that schedule. When I changed the schedule, I did not move the oil change up. Long story short, I recently changed the oil a bit late when I noticed the oil level was running a bit low.
When I removed the side plug there was a layer of metal suspended in oil on that bolt. It looked like a layer of mercury that came off the bolt: about enough to barely cover the end of my finger. The lower cap and plug looked very clean; I expected a bit more metal would be found there.
I would say that the magnets are doing their job as advertised.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Jun 13, 2016 16:03:32 GMT -5
from FacebookJOIN THE BLUE RIBBON KINGS AND HIGH DESERT SCOOTERIST FOR A WEEKEND OF RIDES, FOOD, BEER AND MUSIC... REGISTRATION IS $35, INCLUDES RALLY PACK RALLY PATCH RALLY SHIRT (WITH EARLY REGISTRATION BY TO JULY 6TH) CAMPING AND ENTRANCE TO THE SANCTUARY ALL WEEKEND BLUE RIBBON KING BACK YARD BBQ, BEVERAGES FROM SCOOTER BREWING COMPANY and DUKE CITY CIDER COMPANY FRIDAY NIGHT BREAKFAST SATURDAY MORNING TACO BAR DINNER and BEER FROM THE BOOK CLIFF HOME BREW CLUB SATURDAY NIGHT BREAKFAST BURRITOS SUNDAY MORNING (ALL MEALS WILL HAVE A VEGAN/VEGETARIAN OPTION) SCOOTER/MOTORCYCLE ADMISSION TO COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT SUNDAY (REGISTRATION CLOSES AUGUST 3, 2016) VISIT THE WEB PAGE TO REGISTER... there should also be a Gymkhana and raffle (win a Bajaj!) |
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Jun 9, 2016 23:57:09 GMT -5
Good for you! The Honda PCX is one of the most popular and well designed rides around. Together with the fact you sound like a smart (safe) rider, I expect you'll have many miles and lots of smiles, good luck! Ditto. |
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Post by thecollector on May 31, 2016 10:28:38 GMT -5
I agree with tortoise. Where you plan on riding it makes a difference because a small ride can be okay in light traffic in a small town but a real obstacle in a big city. Also your size, don't mean to get too personal, is also a consideration. If you are over 6 feet tall and over 200 lbs with all your gear on, then a 50cc is gonna be a bit on the slow side.
As an experienced mechanic you might enjoy trying to get that little ride up to speed with some larger bikes, but based on my experience and conversations with other riders, getting the larger bike makes more sense. You say you are inclined to do the work on the ride; I think you would be happier with one of the big Japanese brands, albeit a slightly used one. How much riding experience do you have? You might want to try a rental for a day to see what suits you best.
There are several good sites for finding good deals on used scooters, and depending on your proximity to a larger metro area, could be a short distance away. Winter is usually the best time to get a good deal on a used bike. Right now is when the prices are usually the highest.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on May 15, 2016 23:47:05 GMT -5
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Apr 23, 2016 18:21:52 GMT -5
I have ridden some since yesterday, it has been very windy lately, but it starts right up and seems to be charging at a reasonable rate. Still keeping an eye on it.
Thanks.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by thecollector on Apr 22, 2016 19:42:42 GMT -5
Recently, I have had a charging issue. I had replaced the regulator-rectifier some years ago and thought at first it needed replacement. After watching a video on YouTube on how to troubleshoot such an issue I got out my multimeter and began testing. After double checking my results, it appeared one side of the stator was generating enough voltage, but the other was not. I had yet to pull the cover off the stator, but my plan was to do that today. Today I pulled the cover off and immediately noticed there was something wedged on the left side of the magneto. I wasn’t sure what it was, it was sort of gray-silver: I thought it looked like a piece of duct tape. I began to remove the fan from the flywheel and this dropped out. 
Yeah, for some reason there was an exhaust gasket between the fan and the flywheel.
I am beyond actually being angry at this point. I replaced the stock exhaust years ago. I remember thinking when I took the old exhaust out, “why isn’t there a gasket in there?” I added a special gasket, similar to this one, when I installed the new exhaust. I remember thinking that not using a gasket was a really stingy way the bike company could save a buck.
Now it seems when they assembled this thing some worker thought the gasket belonged in this spot, between the fan and the flywheel, and not between the engine block and the exhaust.
I find that to be a bit disturbing.
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Post by thecollector on Dec 3, 2015 16:09:27 GMT -5
Thanks for all the responses.
I am not expecting 250cc plus speeds but hoping for more than a 5mph increase as well as NOT losing speed on hills. I agree my type of bike would not be very safe or stable at much increased speeds (my current setup is about 55 mph WOT). My home is at 4800' elevation and my scooting buddies like climbing hills around here that are 1000 to 2500 feet above the Valley floor. I just don't want to be left in the dust THAT easily on the big runs on some of the flat outs.
Assuming we don't have a long winter inversion I'll report back in a couple months with how it goes.
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Post by thecollector on Dec 1, 2015 13:52:14 GMT -5
I am thinking of doing a CVT upgrade and have been reading up on the subject. As the weather around here has slipped below freezing I do not plan on starting the project soon but will wait until early next year. I am looking for more speed at the high end and am willing to sacrifice acceleration off the line. I have not, but plan to, re-jet the carb and open up my air intake at around the same time as the CVT change.
I have seen recommendations that different manufacturers parts should not be mixed together. I am thinking about the NCY kit as my choice. I was wondering why they have a 1,000 rpm main spring with this kit? I've seen many people recommend a 1,500 rpm main spring for people doing my kind of upgrade.
Would the spring from this kit get me the right kind of shifting or should I get a 1,500 spring at the same time?
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Post by thecollector on Nov 9, 2015 20:04:00 GMT -5
I'll have to inspect the area better to check if anything else got melted. So you blocked it off with a plate, any idea if not blocking it would be a problem? My tube is toast and removed, but I didn't block anything off. My scooter doesn't currently run and I'm hoping to know if this could be contributing.
If you haven't replaced the tube/hose then maybe the open hole in the valve cover causes too much open air in the chamber. It is not necessary to use a block off plate but open holes or hoses not hooked up will prevent proper compression and keep it from running.
Anyone else with more experience than me, feel free to chime in. 
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