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Post by jtron on Jun 22, 2015 14:09:35 GMT -5
Hmmmm. Interesting article. I wanna switch to synthetic eventually, I only have like 340 miles so far tho so I'm using conventional. How long is it reccomended to use conventional for while you break it in?
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 17:09:38 GMT -5
Looks like they have 10.2 cm ones and 14.5 cm ones one ebay. Both say for gy6. What size would work? I have a 157qmj long case 150
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 16:16:07 GMT -5
Ok cool. Btw I do have one of those laser temp guns...would I be able to get a decent measurement by measuring the heat of the case or would that just be way off from the actual oil temp? Maybe ill just get one of those 100c ones
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 15:51:47 GMT -5
Nice bike, bintelli seems like a pretty legit dealer. I was on a bit more of a budget so I got an ssr x6 150 zuma clone. Pretty much the exact same as the havoc, built by znen I think, except it has 10" wheels with 130  10 front and 120 10 rear. Still has the long case. Anyways I rly like mine it looks almost exactly the same as the havoc but its only like 1250 so its a tiny bit cheaper. I think theyre both nice looking bikes, and I have nothing to complain about pertaining to the build quality, no leaks or loose parts and it runs well. Just another option I wanted to mention if youre into zuma clones. |
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 13:22:03 GMT -5
Damn, its hard to believe someone would let it get into that shape with so few miles...unless the odometer jst broke lol. Seems like a good find if theres not too much wrong with it, id expect the engine to be barely broken in with that few miles on it. Good luck with the rebuild youre stoked, fun little project
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Post by jtron on Jun 21, 2015 13:18:36 GMT -5
so I was checking out oil temp gauge dipsticks but they only seem to go to 100c/212 f. As I understand gy6s tend to get hotter than that. I was wondering if anyone has managed to find one that fits, and can measure higher temps, kinda over trying to fabricate one. Am I outa luck?
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Post by jtron on Jun 15, 2015 16:43:39 GMT -5
I just got these because my worried mother insisted www.motorcycle-superstore.com/64981/i/speed-and-strength-black-9-moto-shoes. They look like high top skate shoes but have reinforced toe and ankles. They are nice and casual, and the tan suede is nice. I wear a textile armored jacket,full face, and these shoes. I figure going 55 and sliding or hitting a car warrants some protection just in case |
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 23:13:56 GMT -5
So I was wondering as I was sitting in stop n go traffic. Will the clutch wear out early if you are always stopping and going slowly, or going slowly for a while with it just starting to engage? I was thinking it would probably wear if it just barely is engaging on and off constantly. Any input or experience?
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 22:17:41 GMT -5
Is it possible that the ethanol n crap in the pump gas just isnt coloring my plug? Ive heard all the detergents n junk sometimes keep a plug from coloring we have e10 in california. Anyone have any experience in the matter? Should I be seeing color anyways?r Maybe im overthinking this but I want my scooter to last lol
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 21:23:18 GMT -5
I wound def try adjusting the af screw before upjetting Ya. I figured id drill out the stupid tamper proof thing and mess with the af mix a bit if it gets worse i can always set it back to how it was. I wish I could just adjust it without having to take off the carb and drill the damn thing. Oh well, I guess ill just get more experience fixing it. |
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 21:14:10 GMT -5
Well, id rather not adjust anything considering it runs pretty damn well. Ive just read everywhere if the plugs white youre a bit lean and many say it could run too hot. But usually when ppl are too lean theres a lot of symptoms. Mine pulls well all the way through. Might be lacking a little wot I can only hit 52 indicated or so on a flat but its a 150 gy6 zuma clone with fatty dual purposr tires that are only 10" so thats probably all ill get stock. What do you guys think? Keep it as it is, adjust a/f mixture or needle a bit, or upjet a tiny bit? The set I orsered has like 100-105-108-110-114-115 then a few more in multiples of 5. Ive been reading vigorously on carb tuning but im totally new to this. Any advice is much appreciated
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 16:35:58 GMT -5
The aluminium plugs come out with just a bit more force than the brass ones, but the same method works fine. Awesome, thats good to know thanks |
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 16:32:50 GMT -5
Cool, makes me feel a bit less paranoid. Even though it runs well I should still try n tune it or upjet it though right? I wana get that plug nice and toasty tan and ill worry less. I just hope its not an ordeal trying to tune it.
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 16:03:09 GMT -5
Hope so lol. Also, about that tamperproof carb. Ive seen that ppls air/fuel screw has a brass plug, but mine looks like its plug is aluminum or something not brass...I hope its ok when I drill it out. Sure would suck if there was like nothing under there lol. I hate california emissions bs, those beaurocrats are so out of touch with reality....carbs NEED adjustment what the heck are they thinking.
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Post by jtron on Jun 14, 2015 15:37:41 GMT -5
Being in cali my carb came running lean. I ordered some jets, but I cant richen it up until I remove the carb and drill out the adjustment screw cuz I have one of those bs tamperproof carbs. Gona change the main jet and tune it in a couple of days once my jets arrive. But basically I was wondering if its dangerous for my engine to ride in the meantime lean...it runs well no hesitation or bogging at all but the plug is white still. I know it can burn your engine out running lean, jw if it can still be dangerously lean while still running very well. In the meantime would obstructing my intake a little be a good idea to reduce airflow and richen it up a bit?
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10 front and 120 
