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Post by florida on Nov 21, 2015 8:50:46 GMT -5
Walmart.com sells Gates belts but they dont list sizes at all on there website making it impossible to get the correct one if you dont already know the Gates models.
Walmart.com does list the Gates model numbers.
My scoot is a longcase 139qmb 50cc.
The gates Power-link belt from eBay size is 729-17.5 30
What is the model number for a genuine Gates recreational belt from walmart.com that fits the above mentioned engine?
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Post by florida on Nov 21, 2015 7:55:30 GMT -5
There are Gates clones, Is it a powerlink? As for the variator I agree with geh3333 you need to remove the clutch and variator and inspect. John Yes, Powelink. |
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Post by florida on Nov 21, 2015 2:17:28 GMT -5
 My scoot is a 4 stroke long case w/ 83cc bbk and nearly every high performance modification installed. Im 212lbs and live in very flat Central Florida. Bikes never been ridden in rain. 8000 miles on odometer. ] Installed a dlh performance variator 1000 miles ago with 7.5g rollers. I have 3 8g and 3 7g rollers in the variator About 500 miles after installing it I rode without a helmet on and noticed how loud it was. The new cvt seemed to be "chattering" So, upon inspection of the belt I found it shredded and one of the 3 triangle shaped plastic clips is missing. I cant find the clip, so I think it is lodged down in the variator with the roller weights. I dont have an impact wrench ( or tools ) to take it apart and find out is going on in there. ***I just inspected the variator as best as I can and I spot a few rollers loose and lodged sideways like the ramp glides have broken. Has anyone experienced this? Had to have been the missing clip caused this right? I believe that the new variator is the problem as the v clip is missing but I want to make it work. Its a dlh. I cant afford a high dollar unit. I have seen other forum members do side by side comparison reports with cny/dlh/others. Again, I do have the mnf. specs for belt size, but I belive that because my bike is heavily modified it created problems causing the belt to shred. What caused the belt to shred? Was it too short and riding high on the drive face. The higher torque forces from the bbk? The belts shoddy Chinese manufacturing processes? Its a gates Chinese belt. What size belt should I get for a 139qmb long case? Its a 83cc and heavily modified. I believe my current problems will be remedied with a longer than stock size belt ( for the bigger than stock variator ) and a replacement clip for the moveable drive plate. The rollers might be salvageable. The current belt size is a gates powerlink 729 17.5 30 |
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Post by florida on Nov 17, 2015 17:48:59 GMT -5
Your best bet is to go to ebay and buy a " 6mm gy6 exhaust scooter studs".
It will be a set of two that you need to purchase. $7 tops.
If you wait much longer your remaining stud is going to snap off leaving you with a broken stud.
Utfse and get some locktite and after installing check after a few hundred miles.
Your stud may be broken also. Which can be fixed but does require removing the engine from frame.
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Post by florida on Nov 6, 2015 11:24:55 GMT -5
I have the dlh variator. A different package and with 1500rpm springs and 5, 6,7 and 8g roller weights were all included.
I installed a new gates belt purchased from a Chinese ebay retailer. Its most likely counterfeit.
I checked my clutch shoes and they are in good condition.
I have all the same mods as you. I have an orange cdi box.
I have my lower exhaust wrapped with racing heat tape to move the very hot gasses past my air intake cone.
I think modifying your exhaust ( gutting it ) might be the culprit. Why would doing this give you more "performance' than drilling 5 3/8 inch holes in the back of canister. I think you will find that not many people agree with completely gutting an exhuast.
Today in central florida My top speed increased from 55 to 64mph due to the tempatue being a "cool" 67 degrees.
Oh yea, i run 7.5 gram rollers. I used a mix of 7 & 8 gram rollers.
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Post by florida on Oct 13, 2015 22:57:13 GMT -5
About 150 miles ago or two weeks ago I installed a new belt, DLH Variator, and 7.5g rollers. I dont have a wrench for the clutch so I didn't install the yellow or blue springs I bought.
Prior to replacing the cvt parts I described above, I installed a 52cc Bbk, valve head, A9 cam, cdi/coil and performance filter.
Before the cvt work was done and the Bbk and accesories were installed, the scooter still went 39mph but had lots more low and mid range torque.
After doing the cvt work,( im running 7.5g rollers ) the scooter was a little bit slower off the line but the speedometer read that my max speed was about 55mph.
I rode the scooter the other day without my helmet, and I noticed new noises coming from the cvt. I didnt think anything of it until a few days ago when I noticed the max speed is 50mph.
Is the lower top speed something I should be concerned with?
I cant remember what brand or material the new belt is. I bought it off eBay for $18 and it shipped from China. I am absolutely sure the belt was the correct size and that it was installed correctly.
Could it be that the new belt, after 150 miles has "broken in".
**Also, I live in Central Fl. Its very hot here every day.
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Post by florida on Oct 12, 2015 3:44:35 GMT -5
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Post by florida on Oct 8, 2015 8:04:40 GMT -5
Should I or not? Its a generic 38mm. Is it Cotton/mesh? Foam type? Most likely and Make Sure to Use Real Filter Oil Its the foam type. |
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Post by florida on Oct 8, 2015 5:41:42 GMT -5
Should I or not?
Its a generic 38mm.
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Post by florida on Oct 6, 2015 11:43:10 GMT -5
I'm thinking about tapering the forward sides of my seat to be narrower. It's not covering the compartment, just hanging over, so I could probably just trim the plastic and pull in the existing vinyl. Is it a bad idea to try to use real leather or something a step up from vinyl? I would like to know the answer to this question. I have many yards of light brown leather from a couch that came out of a High end Hotel. The marriot at a beach resort. While i have seen leather seating on Harleys, i believe it to be an "outdoor" type leather. One that sheds rain, like a horses saddle. |
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Post by florida on Oct 5, 2015 19:06:26 GMT -5
Update:
I have new numbers for my build:
- where it was once 15mph uphill I now go 35mph.
- my top speed has increased 16 mph from 39 mph after rebuild to a top speed of approaching ( untested on gps ) 55mph after replacing variator, installing heavier weights and a new belt.
Any other Gmw owners, and Gy6 enthusiasts pm me. Id like to attend a group ride. I reside in pinellas county Central Florida.
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Post by florida on Oct 2, 2015 12:38:30 GMT -5
New shock from GMW retailer in my City. Its 11 1/4 in compared to the stock 10 1/4 in. I didnt feel that the different geometry has any noticable effect on my scooters handling.  |
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PAIR system
by: florida - Oct 2, 2015 10:03:57 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by florida on Oct 2, 2015 10:03:57 GMT -5
Okay... I'm going to try and be quick with my explanation, ask if you need more details. The hose from the valve cover gets a fuel filter on the end and attached to the frame. On my scooter I have it bending in a u then just slightly lower than the bottom of the frame. Others say to mount the end to a high point of the frame. That way oil vapor will cool and run back in. As for the air box, disconnect it and throw it in the trash. Amazon has pod filter for $10. The stock air boxes restrict flow and only cause problems. Only reason to keep the stock box is if you do off roading or drive on a gravel road. If not its just junk. Now the only two parts that need a vacuum line is the carb and fuel petcock. Excellent instructions. If you have a petcock like my Znen 50cc, the vacumn line starts from in front of the carb and goes to the lower fitting on the petcock. The higher fitting on your petcock is the fuel line that attatches to your carbuerator. My stock airbox serves as a toolbox after switching to a red $10 round air filter. The tube that went from airbox to carb was ditched and I glued a black piece of plastic ( cut from an oil jug) to plug the hole. I also glued black plastic in the airboxes round hole to make my toolbox watertight. You might wonder how I plan on accessing my tools when I break down. I cut down an appropriate size philips head screwdriver and drilled a hole in it that slips on my key ring. Has Anyone else made this modification? |
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Post by florida on Sept 30, 2015 1:21:50 GMT -5
Recently I've installed:
- DLH variator.
-I've got both 1000rpm and 1500rpm version clutch springs. I havent installed them yet.
- 7.5 g roller weights.
- new belt
- installed new rear shock. Same adjustable collar type as stock but 1 1/4 in. longer.
- Used but very good condition OEM front forks. Original fork was ruined when fender tab broke off exposing the forks internals.
-New front brake master lever.
- New rear drum brake shoes.
-5w Xenon front lights.
- 12w Xenon front lights.
- 35w H4 headlights.
- new kickstand and spring.
-new center-stand.
- all new bolts, nuts, washers and clips. A few are stainless. Ace Hardware has a bigger selection of metric fasteners than Lowes and HD.
- I've also made an effort at waterproofing my gy6 wiring harness from Floridas Tropical Storms. Ive used a bicycle inner tube, cut into lengths and then one end zip-tied above the male connect. The loose end slips over the female plug-in effectively sealing the deal!
**
**Ive heard rumors of wine bottles being used to protect a
38mm filter from the elements. Is this true?
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Post by florida on Sept 29, 2015 15:33:36 GMT -5
Hello phil, Welcome to itstheride.boards.net! I too am in Central Fl. I ride a Znen Corp. 50cc scoot. Check out my thread, its my first build. itistheride.boards.net/thread/8301/gmw-coil-filter-tachomter-installedThis is the $21 craftsman torque wrench I used. It is highly reccomended that you use a beam type torque wrench rather than a "click type". You can break a bolt much more easily with a click type than a Beam Type torque wrench. pic :  Torque Specs for the head nuts are 15 ft lbs. The bolts that are on the side of the head should be tightened AFTER you torque the head bolts to 12lbs to be on the safe side. ( I torqued my head bolts to 15 ft lbs and on the last one I felt the bolt start to strip a little bit inside the engine case as my beam style torque wrench reached 15lbs. DO NOT use a "click style" torque wrench. They are notorious for being inacurate on the inexpensive models and also your head studs are probaly cheapo Chinese made steel. ) 2) I changed my oil 3 or 4 times in the first 1000 miles after 100cc bbk conversion and made sure to rummage in the used oil for any metal shavings from the "breaking in" process of a new Bbk. I never did find any metal pieces in the used oil, leading me to belive that how I was told to break in the engine from itstheride.boards.net forum was accurate information. ****i rode my new 100cc scoot at varying throttle positions. I drove the scoot at 15 mph for periods of time ( I live in a congested area. The causeways in Tampa Bay are congested at times and thats how I was able to drive at such a low speed.) I drove at speeds hovering around 25mph. I approached full throttle for periods of time during the break in process but never twisted the throttle to full throttle or w.o.t. ( wide open throttle). ** My znen scoot went 39mph top speed with 6500 miles on it and was very slow when taking off from a traffic light and over bridges. Now after the conversion it has much more low end torque and Im not a hazard in traffic. Its reccomended that you use 15w 40 motor oil during the first 1000 miles. I did my first oil change at 100 miles, the next at 400 miles, the one after that at 750 miles and at 1000 miles I started to use 10w40. Thats 3 oil changes. Use 15w 40 for 100 miles and at the 1000 mile mark switch to 10w 40 oil. I personally use Walmart motor oil. I have been changing my oil every 700 miles. Thread on breaking in bbk. itistheride.boards.net/thread/6738/break |
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main-jet I already have. 
