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Post by gy6er on Jan 16, 2016 20:07:44 GMT -5
For your rear wheel spinning,seems your inner (3) clutch springs are defective. I just installed a brand new gy6 clutch and did the same thing. You will need to take a 38 or 39 mm impact socket and remove huge nut.There is also a youtube video of a guy using hugh adjustable wrench to remove it,I've done that and it works like a charm. Be careful, make sure you can put both feet on the outside of the clutch as they are under spring load. Then you may have a backing plate or maby not. Parts for scooters or scrappy dog scooters will have the springs you need,then you also may need snap ring pliers if you have to remove a back plate. Other than that I find just a regular pic to remove the 3 springs is pretty ok. Beware, sometimes i have bought new springs and installed them only to have same result. You might get a set of 1500 springs and like a set of stock in case the 1st don't work. Don't know about your other issues. I will think the thread over. Make sure you can comfortably reach the clutch when working on. Sometimes you may get the nut off and yet the clutch will not come apart easily but it should. If not you will need to keep foot on it and tap around edges with rubber mallet until it breaks loose. Use pic or preferred method to re install and that should take care of that. Good luck, gettin scoot to truck! As noted in my first post, I've replaced the clutch wholesale. I already have an impact wrench and have replaced those parts. Unless you suppose the springs on the old AND new clutch are somehow defective, but visual inspection doesn't indicate this compared to images I've seen. Here's the thing, I and don't know who else has ever heard of the rear wheel spinning for another reason and just to let you know it is waayyy possible you did wear out your old set of springs and get a botched new set. FYI... I just had a used up battery,got a new one and did the run around when it still just clicked and sat there( solenoid,coil,connections & so forth) cause new batt said 13.6 v, but only after days,now it was only at 3.0 v . Was the new battery was dud also. I have had many dud parts. Just to help not rule out IMO a good cause. I just installed the other day a brand new clutch with the wheel spinning even at idle. Well I know in my case it is the 3 springs. Maby if you order some and have not found a solution,just might fix the ol boy. |
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Post by gy6er on Jan 16, 2016 18:23:13 GMT -5
If it's a gear thing it should be front variator or rear clutch related(max reves low MPH) and not just lost power The power loss happens exactly at a given MPH of 25-30 MPH. Otherwise it's got amazing power for a 50cc due to my tuning, as it always has. Again, to be clear, there is no "bogging down" or "power loss at maximum throttle" like other issues. This issue is that it is as if the drive shaft disengages entirely after a given MPH. Contrariwise, this only happens ridden, because without any weight on it the engine will (on stand) go to high speeds. Thats a thinker,These machiens are fairly simple. Something should point to something. Aside of the good accel,do you think she may be winding down? |
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Post by gy6er on Jan 16, 2016 18:10:37 GMT -5
If it's a gear thing it should be front variator or rear clutch related(max reves low MPH) and not just lost power. Do you know what weight the rollers are cause they might be to light?
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Post by gy6er on Jan 16, 2016 17:56:09 GMT -5
For your rear wheel spinning,seems your inner (3) clutch springs are defective. I just installed a brand new gy6 clutch and did the same thing. You will need to take a 38 or 39 mm impact socket and remove huge nut.There is also a youtube video of a guy using hugh adjustable wrench to remove it,I've done that and it works like a charm. Be careful, make sure you can put both feet on the outside of the clutch as they are under spring load. Then you may have a backing plate or maby not. Parts for scooters or scrappy dog scooters will have the springs you need,then you also may need snap ring pliers if you have to remove a back plate. Other than that I find just a regular pic to remove the 3 springs is pretty ok. Beware, sometimes i have bought new springs and installed them only to have same result. You might get a set of 1500 springs and like a set of stock in case the 1st don't work. Don't know about your other issues. I will think the thread over. Make sure you can comfortably reach the clutch when working on. Sometimes you may get the nut off and yet the clutch will not come apart easily but it should. If not you will need to keep foot on it and tap around edges with rubber mallet until it breaks loose. Use pic or preferred method to re install and that should take care of that. Good luck, gettin scoot to truck!
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Post by gy6er on Jan 14, 2016 16:16:28 GMT -5
Hey all, I have a Gorilla Motor Works EX-150, nice bike but was wondering,this thing has signs of ac driven and dc driven cdi. Now, The question is,I had it run with both battery terminals off. She still ran. So does this prove that it is ac indefinitely? Thanks
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Post by gy6er on Nov 26, 2015 23:38:54 GMT -5
I know a click when starting is no........no good, but If it keeps up must it be batt. She's old 2 yr plus but just wondering. would a solinoid do same thing?  |
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Post by gy6er on Nov 25, 2015 9:18:29 GMT -5
Turns out it was a bad Banjing Hp brand new drum! Here we go with the RMA thing.
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Post by gy6er on Nov 24, 2015 22:33:19 GMT -5
Way been there and done those...good insight,But I have been aware of this. That's why is driving me crazy. Just did another set of pads on a new banjing drum. Shakes like nobody's business. I'm lost on this. Thanks for ideas. I have had a problem in past with glazing cause my one scoot's rear actually does not spin even when on double stand.Weird brake grab until weight is on it. It's gotta be something. I also try to give a set amount of juice to like 3-5 mph to avoid. It's crazy how much I took apart my cvt...like4-5 times today. Tomm I will try an old stock drum,maby better luck,for now  |
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Post by gy6er on Nov 24, 2015 20:35:30 GMT -5
Don't know what is going on. All of a sudden getting a shimmy on take off(when sheave moves) Tried all kinds of stuff. Ran diff variators and whole different clutches. Inspected stuff and I keep getting slippage under these brief tests. Seems outside of clutch pad slips. I know a little,but must be missing something. Any help waaay welcomed.
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Post by gy6er on Nov 13, 2015 16:36:26 GMT -5
Nope,I had same thing happen and was 2 jets to rich. Pretty sure.
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Post by gy6er on Nov 8, 2015 9:20:22 GMT -5
why cant you use original piston cyl and head anyway. Seems like all you would need is new gaskets. Are you sure you cant do top or bottom guide buy just taking tensinor out of the way? I only need top one BTW
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Post by gy6er on Nov 8, 2015 8:30:44 GMT -5
Was wondering what needs to be done for chain guide replace. Top has chips off of it. I recently saw small piece sitting on top of oil drain plug at oil change so looked and,yup was the top chain guide indeed. Q; what needs to be done,you only need to remove variator to get to bolt and then just un bolt and bolt new one correct? I do believe you must remove shrouding top to access the cam tensioner itself. Also was wondering,do you need to have cyl head off for either top guide or bottom removal/install? Seems like releasing pressure from tensioner will let me pop out bottom guide. Thanks
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Post by gy6er on Nov 4, 2015 12:36:36 GMT -5
What do I do if my 150cc scooters new motor is ac when the bike is wired up for DC? What parts would I need etc?
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Post by gy6er on Oct 18, 2015 12:09:08 GMT -5
Any should,just make sure your v slides are Dr pulley. If they get old,or seem frail,replace at once. That is the only reason your variator tore. Parts for scooters or scrappy stock replacement one should be fine. Way fair price at them also.
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Post by gy6er on Oct 16, 2015 14:13:22 GMT -5
Yupper,did a quick switch aroo with other bikes. Shop mounted tire and bent the disc rotor. Words of advice to others. Take off rotor when dropping off at the local shop. Bad B&M....Bad
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