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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 21:50:31 GMT -5
The final gears in these things just won't allow them to go much over 45. If you are really going 45, then you are winding that thing out at 9000 rpm, or probably more. That is just too much for these scooters. You are almost certainly going to break a valve spring, if you take it up there much. I maxed mine out on a long straightaway one time. The most I run mine at is about 40, and mine will reach that speed at a lower rpm, because of the larger displacement. These things redline somewhere between 7K and 8K RPM. Just some friendly advice; if you don't want to be doing a valve job on your scooter, I would just tune the CVT to where it goes between 0-32 mph, or so, to your liking.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 16:48:39 GMT -5
Are you saying you are going 45mph on a stock 50cc? Not to rain on your parade, but unless you are talking about going downhill, your speedo is off. I have the 50mm BBK on mine, which makes it 83cc, and an A9 cam, and completely tuned CVT, with sliders, and my top speed is about 47-50. Plus, I have 12" tires. My stock speedo was off about 12 mph when it said I was going "45mph". My speedo says I'm going over 60, but I'm really going about 45.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 16:04:42 GMT -5
Yeah, I guess it is. Though, I can still hear. I often wonder what I will need to hear that is relatively quiet?
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 15:51:00 GMT -5
Hey, good luck with everything. Nice that you did that for your brother. I had a question:
How did you get the shocks out of that triple tree? I was trying to get them out of one just like that, and I couldn't do it, for the life of me. How far open do you have to pry the sleeves on the triple tree?
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 15:10:47 GMT -5
Turn your starter over for 5 seconds, then feel that wire that goes from the battery to the frame. It's hot! I'm not sure if "negative current" is the right term for the current that flows through the ground wire, but there is a lot of current that must flow through the ground wire when you turn your starter. 10 gauge is not a big enough wire, or it would not get hot. There must be a very solid ground going to that starter motor, or it won't turn.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 11:10:41 GMT -5
Agreed on the full face helmet. Along with eye protection, and noise reduction, when it's cold on winter mornings, I cannot imagine having your face exposed to that kind of frigid wind.
I listen to music on earbuds when I'm riding. I guess I shouldn't say that, because I think it's illegal. But, that's what I do. Talk about noise reduction, ha ha.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 10:40:26 GMT -5
I got an LED taillight, this one: www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Smoke-20LED-Motorcycle-Brake-Tail-Turn-Signal-License-Plate-Integrated-Light-/201271665772?hash=item2edcb9e46c&vxp=mtrIt took some creative engineering. I took the red lense off of my existing one, then just removed the rest of the light part. Then, just installed that one. It has turn signals built in to it. Yellow LED blinker lights that match the LED blinkers I installed. These: www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Universal-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Black-LED-Turn-Signal-Indicator-Blinker-Light-/271569806642?hash=item3f3ad26532&vxp=mtrI think it's pretty cool to have your tail light have little blinkers that match your turn signals. It looks cool, and it's about $25 for the taillight, and the blinkers. One thing. Your taillight may be running off of AC power, as it is now. If it comes on when you turn your key, BEFORE you crank the engine, it is DC, and you can leave it as is. If it comes on AFTER you crank your engine, it is AC. If you have AC power, you will need to run DC power there for the running light. Either run a wire from your battery, with a switch in line(you have to remember to turn it on and off!), or a wire from the DC line coming off of your ignition. The line connected to the brake switches is DC, so the brake light line is fine. |
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 8:23:10 GMT -5
If you took the variator off, you should be able to get the belt off, first of all. You should be able to put your palm on the front of the clutch, and grab the half of the pulley closest to the front, and squeeze. That will open the clutch, and the belt should come right out. Then, to put the belt back on, you squeeze the clutch open, and push the belt all the way down in the clutch, and it will go right over the front variator boss. You can actually change belts this way without removing the front, or rear clutch nut.
To answer your question, that nut is a regular, right hand thread. They can be put on there pretty tight by the factory. You should be able to get the belt off without removing it, though. You can change the belt without taking off a single nut.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 8:10:41 GMT -5
I am hoping he decides to pay me to open this motor up. That way, we can have a reference for what parts work with this engine.
I looked at it, and it has a funky looking valve cover. Is a thick valve cover, with a large plug on the top, I suppose to provide access to the valves. It looks like maybe you can adjust the valves without removing the valve cover? I am going to work on it monday, and will report more.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 8:05:12 GMT -5
Your back tire is low, also, it appears. You need to check that.
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Post by steve on Jun 23, 2015 7:40:56 GMT -5
You need to hook the battery ground to the valve cover. Run a wire from the same spot on the valve cover to the frame. then, run a ground from that spot on the frame to another bolt on the engine. As close to the starter as possible. Do that, then report the results. The only grounds I have are to the valve cover and to the frame. Yeah, some, maybe most?, only have that, and it is fine. Mine has another ground wire going from the frame to one of the bolts that attaches the starter. It seems that his engine ground has lost continuity somewhere, which is why he can't get the starter to work. Maybe the gaskets? So, I would recommend he runs a wire from the frame to a spot close to the starter, or ideally to one of the bolts that attaches the starter. |
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Post by steve on Jun 22, 2015 18:00:53 GMT -5
There is supposed to be a spring that holds it up. At least, there is on a 50cc. If that spring goes bad, or comes off, the stand will come down while you are ridingl
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Post by steve on Jun 22, 2015 17:32:40 GMT -5
You need to hook the battery ground to the valve cover. Run a wire from the same spot on the valve cover to the frame. then, run a ground from that spot on the frame to another bolt on the engine. As close to the starter as possible. Optimal would be to one of the bolts that attaches the starter.Do that, then report the results.
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Post by steve on Jun 22, 2015 11:20:44 GMT -5
Remember, when you install that uni-filter, it is going to be significantly louder. I am talking LOUD. I threw mine out as soon as I tried it.
Look up my post on installing BBK's. Learn from my mistakes.
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Post by steve on Jun 22, 2015 10:07:53 GMT -5
Thanks, John.
It's on a Keeway. It uses the 140QMB 2 stroke variator parts. I will explain to customer, and if he wants me to open it up, then you are correct.
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