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Post by steve on Aug 11, 2015 15:49:42 GMT -5
If it is DC, then there is an explanation. A lot of the LED lighting has a resistor built in, so they not only need voltage, they need a bit of current as well. It could be that dinky battery that comes on these scooters. The stators don't produce optimum voltage until at least 3000 RPM. The wires are also pretty skimpy. You could always run their own wire from the battery, with at least a 16g wire. That is what I recommend.
I have the 11 pole stator as well. I will tell you that below 2000 RPM, my headlights do dim. Not a whole, whole bunch, but they do. I have my LED taillights ran off of the battery, but I have 2 batteries on my scoot run parallel, and my tail lights do not dim. I would just run a good, quality 14-16g wire, but no smaller than 16g, from the battery. Put them on a relay, or a switch.
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 13:51:12 GMT -5
I know that the hose from the airbox to the carb is torn at the end that goes into the carberator. I used duct tape to try to cover that up, but my guess is that the adhesive won't last long enough I bet that is your problem, right there. You need to somehow seal that up. That gets pretty hot. I bet the duct tape gets loose as the engine heats up. Those symptoms sound exactly like an air leak. If it were mine, I would be going over all hoses before I tried anything else. You could maybe use a couple of wire ties? You need to make sure that connection is snug. If air is getting in, you get the symptoms you described. |
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 13:17:04 GMT -5
Is there a shop nearby that sells motorcycles/scooters/ATV's? I bet that they would have some Yamaha, or Kawasaki, or Honda synthetic that would work with the warranty.
I just use Valvoline, or Autozone brand synthetic in my Chinese jobber, but I'm not worried about any warranty.
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 12:22:02 GMT -5
YaI had to fight thru the bone headed only can look it up in the computer dmbars Ive never seen anywere that didn't have a whole tray of sizes, Yup there they are on a shelf in the back. really? seriously jr? at least try ya know? I, ummm, beg your pardon? |
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 12:18:27 GMT -5
all stators are ac . Some electrical systems on scooters are mixed use ac and dc. To help figure out the problem you need to know what you have. What would help is pictures of the stators wiring and the regulator. What are you powering the tail light with ac or dc and where is it coming from? John I know my scooter is using an AC system and I'll try to trace it after work and get some pictures. What if I were to connect the tailight to directly to the battery through a switch relay? Would the direct DC power source (battery) make it stay constantly lit regardless of idle speed? I traced the ground wires and they are all secured to the frame. No breaks in the ground wires either. Looks like all connections are secure. If you run it directly from the battery, that would be ideal, yes. I have LED tail lights, and that is how I have mine run. No dimming issues. |
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 11:50:44 GMT -5
That sure sounds like a vacuum leak, to me.
Check your intake manifold for cracks. Check the hoses for air leaks. Those will be the hoses coming off of the nipples on the manifold. It could also be the connections on the carb are loose. Check the hose going from the airbox to the carb, and make sure it is fit on there snug, also, make sure the carb is in the intake manifold snugly.
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 11:31:10 GMT -5
It never hurts to try, but I bought a cheap one similar to that, and my engine lost compression and stopped running within 2 days. I bought another one from a reputable dealer, for more money, and it's still going strong. That cheap one had casting holes in it all the way through to the cylinder.
If it were me, I would pass. But, mine is my main transportation. If you can afford the risk, the worst thing that can happen is you are out $34.
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 11:20:48 GMT -5
I would say that's pretty normal. Especially with a single phase stator(I assume you don't have an 11 pole stator).
Since yours are direct wire to the stator, that is completely normal. Most headlights are direct wired to the stator, and they dim when the RPM drop. The stators don't produce proper voltage unless your engine is running at 3000 RPM.
Are those universal LED's? The reason I ask is because stators produce AC voltage. Unless you have a rectifier in front of the tail lights, they are probably not going to last very long running on AC voltage.
I have LED tail lights on mine, and I just ran them off of the battery, on a switch. If you do this, you won't have the dimming issues. That would also put them on DC voltage. Like John said, ALL stators put out AC voltage, so you are running AC voltage to your tail lights.
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Post by steve on Aug 10, 2015 11:11:44 GMT -5
If this is a 50cc, then that air/fuel screw is not going to be the difference between not starting at all, and suddenly starting up again, and running fine. I have a couple of questions:
When you took the cylinder out and inspected the rings and such, did you replace the cylinder, or just the head, and put the cylinder back together?
If you did not replace the cylinder and piston, you need to. Once you take it apart, you unseat the rings, and the cylinder is glazed. The rings will not reseat. You need to replace the entire cylinder, piston, and rings. Otherwise, your compression is severely compromised, and it will never run right.
A couple of things I would check, to get started: Assuming you replaced the cylinder, and changed the fuel out of the gas tank.
1st of all, take the fan cover, and the fan off. Inspect your flywheel, and make sure it is not loose. Sometimes the woodruff keys bust loose on those, and that will screw the timing up so badly it will not start. If you have compression, spark, and fuel, this is what I would first suspect.
2: Replace the Carb. You can get one for $20 on ebay. Just replace the whole thing.
Once you do these 2 things, along with replacing all of the fuel in the system, you have narrowed it down quite a bit.
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Post by steve on Aug 3, 2015 15:09:31 GMT -5
It could also be an extremely worn/stretched out belt. Or, the wrong size belt on there. That would basically disable the CVT. You need to do the compression test, adjust the valves(look on youtube, lots of vids), and get that CVT open.
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Post by steve on Aug 3, 2015 15:02:29 GMT -5
The 6.5's should be just about perfect. Those clutch springs only affect the take off. They engage your clutch at a higher rev, 2K RPM higher, to be exact. What I did was bumped my roller weights up to 7g, and installed the yellow 1K torque spring. You should be happy with the BBK. 30ish up hill should be no problem.
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Post by steve on Jul 2, 2015 17:02:05 GMT -5
If it goes in between your valve cover, and your airbox, I don't know what it's called. PCV?. It just catches oil, and whatever else out of the vent hose.
Sorry, it looks just like a carbon canister, that goes in between the gas tank vent, and the airbox.
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Post by steve on Jul 2, 2015 14:24:05 GMT -5
It's fine now. I have it vented very well. I ran it about 30 miles yesterday, and 30 miles today, and it is fine. It's happened twice to me in 10 years. Just a set of circumstances that made the float stick open. I'm not going to take anything apart, or replace anything, unless it happens continuously. Just thought I would share. If anybody else has that problem, shut the gas off, run the carburetor dry, then turn the gas back on, and keep on a'gettin' it.
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Post by steve on Jul 2, 2015 12:57:32 GMT -5
I agree with John about the flywheel. The little key thingies(that's the technical term), on the crankshaft can break. It happened to me.
Any background on the scoot you can share? Have you seen it run? When?
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Post by steve on Jul 2, 2015 12:53:30 GMT -5
It is a carbon canister. Part of what I believe is called the EVAP system. It burns the fumes coming out of the vent on your gas tank.
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