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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 27, 2015 22:50:05 GMT -5
I will order the CDI and coil tomorrow(my pay day) and replace all vacuum lines and fuel lines, but I am by no means a mechanic, so the valve clearances will have to wait til i can get it driven to my buddy's house as he is a moderately competent small engine mechanic by hobby. He has promised to teach me the ins and outs of the engine, but he is only available on the weekends, and I have to come to him. I really want to thank you for all the info and time you have taken to try and help, it's great to know a community like this exists to help a novice like myself. As always I will keep you posted as to the progress. Replace one piece at a time then check to see if your problem is solved. It is not productive to throw away good parts that could be used as spares. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 27, 2015 21:57:31 GMT -5
Have you checked the clutch? Maybe some aftermarket "performance" parts were installed.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 27, 2015 20:07:18 GMT -5
so i have a 250 engine with a 150ccc plate then ?? man china can confuse me. Sounds like that's what happened. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 27, 2015 10:03:20 GMT -5
Try drilling a small hole on the gas cap. Sounds like it he tank is not venting when fully filled.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 23:18:10 GMT -5
what about from the engine to the frame , then back to the battery? I changed both positive and ground wires from the battery. Those are next on the list. I stopped by Home Depot today and bought another 10' of jumper cable gauge wire. It's was about $10. The only thing preventing me from doing all the changes now is the over bearing heat we are dealing with in southern Texas. The temp in my garage right now in the middle of the night is over  degrees. I can not go over 30 minutes working without being drenched in sweat and my beer too warm. LOL |
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Fuel shutoff
by: JoeyBee - Jul 26, 2015 17:38:40 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 17:38:40 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 16:17:15 GMT -5
what about from the engine to the frame , then back to the battery? I had to keep the factory wire from the negative battery to valve cover. But an addition wire was added that runs from the forks to negative battery. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 16:14:31 GMT -5
Where are you guys getting these wires at (besides jumper cables)? I went to Lowes and not sure what ones to get. There are like 20 different wires there. I found some thick wire at Home Depot. They had a whole wall full of different gauge sizes. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 14:29:03 GMT -5
can we see what you did to make the wires better? John Just changed it to a thicker gauge. Specifically the wire from the starter to solenoid. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 13:41:22 GMT -5
that starter was dragging, poor or under sized wire or weak battery. John Wire was upgraded, and battery brand new. |
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Evap removal
by: JoeyBee - Jul 26, 2015 7:47:07 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 7:47:07 GMT -5
I have a 2014 Taotao 150 and would like to remove the evap emissions crap, got the pair system figured out, would like help removing evap. Also wondering if the 26 mm carb that scrappy sells would be a benefit  Removing the emission stuff is an easy process. Make sure the crank case, valve cover, and gas tank can breath. I sealed the venting port on my gas tank and drilled a small hole on the gas cap. As for the carb, going larger is somewhat debatable. If you have the stock carb that is sealed, it wouldn't hurt. You would get more benefit from making sure it is properly tuned. CVT also. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 7:23:19 GMT -5
if you have the original battery cables still on the are crap. Make new ones with a pair of jumper cables. I did that on mine and never had any problems cranking it with the starter motor. , thanks for the suggestion. I forgot to mention that upgrading the ignition/battery wires was one of my first modifications. I figured it was a good way to get familiar with my electrics. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 26, 2015 0:01:21 GMT -5
Looks about right. With the black cap and low price, it's probably a counterfeit keihin carb. But it should work.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 25, 2015 23:57:02 GMT -5
Good video for sure. I would like to add one more important thing though. Make sure you disconnect your battery before doing anything electrical and even sometimes mechanical to your scooter. Otherwise the next video you will be watching could be "how to rewire a scooter". That is if it don't burn down to the ground. Thanks for the advice. Sometimes it feels like over kill, but I always disconnect the battery before electrical work. The stater swap was very easy. It took longer to watch the video than the actual swap. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 25, 2015 23:02:39 GMT -5
Just as an update, the stater motor was replaced today. The engine is cranking better, but still not electrically turning over. However, the engine still starts easily with the kickstart.
I have a new ignition coil and starter relay arriving on Tuesday. At this point I'll replace each component to find the problem. How I see it, I needed the replacement parts anyways. The defective part will go in the trash.
For anyone who hasn't replaced a stater motor this is a very good video on how to do it.
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degrees. I can not go over 30 minutes working without being drenched in sweat and my beer too warm. LOL