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Post by lain on Apr 20, 2015 9:33:26 GMT -5
I agree 9000 rpms is a little high, I'd try to keep her no higher the 8000 rpms , and that's down hill. I do disagree a little on the main clutch spring . a stronger main spring kepps you in a lower gear a little longer , which will slightly raise the rpms through out accel. When the clutch finally opens fully you should still be running at higher rpms. The only way I can every drop rpms is either taller gears or heavier weights. That's exactly what is happening for me. The rpms raise by a lot as I accelerate, once I am on the road it will stay around 7k at around 30mph, but when i get up to 40-50mph im running RPMs at like 8-9k |
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 22:18:29 GMT -5
I'll have to look tomorrow. I just cleaned out the cvt too, so it should be easy to see...
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 21:51:03 GMT -5
I replaced my variator with my stock variator, now my RPMs go all the way up to 9k. My fuses keep blowing too which is annoying. And I can smell the belt rubbing the case on the inside, smells like burning rubber when I start or go fast... Using 8.45 and 8.00g weights, staggered of course.
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 10:53:21 GMT -5
as long as the parts you put in that rotate around the crank are balanced and the surface area are nic free it should not be causing any problems. It might be better if you can show us what your talking about. John I'll take some pics |
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 10:39:12 GMT -5
Its either something we've never seen before " if it came from the engine" or purposely put there , if not accidentally during manufacturing / assembly. Why would part of your mag end up in his scoot? Are you confessing dude? |
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 10:34:01 GMT -5
You can get AC stators for around $20, if you really have an issue sell the DC stator on ebay and use the money to buy an AC stator. Don't try to make a part not for yoru scoot work for it, you're just going to end up doing a lot of work you don't want to do.
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 10:27:07 GMT -5
I found some issues with my CVT, needless to say I'm on my backup belt right now, about to install my backup variator and clutch as well... I feel the cause of the issue was due to using variator parts from 3 different sets. The variator I had in there was very light, and had some of the walls ground out by a plate I had on there that seemed to fit, but when in motion would slightly grind against the wall. After finding that out I put in a plate that was shaped perfectly for the job, but was from my first variator and very heavy, heavier than the actual variator. Since then I have been having belts and variator slides break. However my backup belt made my motosports has been holding up to all the abuse like a champ, and I've put most of my miles since last september on this belt. What I want to know about CVTs is; if you use parts from other sets with other sets that may be drastically lighter or heavier, can these cause imbalances in the way the CVT works and cause damages? Or should I be looking for something else? I read this link but it does not explain about things like this. |
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 10:15:58 GMT -5
I don't even know how to begin getting the front fairing off lol looks like a ton of screws. And as for tape gorilla works good for a lot of things..lol All the screws are along the edges, may be on either the inside or outside sometimes, and there may be a couple behind the wheel. First, get an ice cube tray, then get your tools, then go to your scoot and start taking off screws and bolts and organizing them by position or size depending on what you feel works best for you. It takes a lot less time than guessing about it and risking getting stuck on the road miles away from home and having to push it home by hand... Trust me, been there, done that. You want to have everything 100% good before you leave your block. |
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Post by lain on Apr 19, 2015 10:01:50 GMT -5
Another thing I noticed is when I take off it cuts out for a second before I get full power. And at top speed (around 45) it cuts out a tiny also. I've taken the carb off and checked hoses and the intake tube. I haven't had any of the front plastic off yet as soon as I get the extra time I will, it seems like quite a job just from the looks of it The wires in the front belong to your rectifier/regulator, ignition switch, killswitch, blinkers, controls, and whatnot. You need to look at these wires as well when trying to find and solve what seems like a wiring issue. If you are feeling lazy instead of screwing in the front fairing just tape it on for test runs. I actually have had my front fairing taped on for many months since I got my scoot broken into and torn apart. I can't screw mine in anymore, all the screw holes are torn off, but you can use the tape method for a long time is what I am saying without issues. Having screws to hold the front on is always good though haha. The things you mention above here, where it cuts out, the thing to look for is a pattern. Does it ALWAYS cut out at those points??? |
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Post by lain on Apr 18, 2015 16:13:07 GMT -5
Not sure how you have your system wired up, but if you mean the wire that goes from the ignition/starter button to the solenoid I think it should read about the same as the other positives. Unless maybe you have a solenoid that works a different way. Your system does look a little bit more complicated than a scooter. On scooter solenoids we have a wire that connects to the solenoid from the starter button that sends a signal to the solenoid to tell it to send electricity to the starter motor.
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Post by lain on Apr 18, 2015 16:05:14 GMT -5
Just because you have continuity doesn't mean the wire is good. That is the thing about doing that test with scooters. That just proves there is a connection between the 2 ends. It does not prove it can carry large loads of electricity like for the starter.
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fuel pump
by: lain - Apr 18, 2015 15:25:41 GMT -5
Post by lain on Apr 18, 2015 15:25:41 GMT -5
I installed the new manual petcock. It seems to have 2 output options. One that pulls from a circle and one that pulls from an oval on the petcock where it connects to the tank. It came with a really long filter with a straw in it, I took the straw and long filter out and put the short filter from my vacuum petcock on the manual petcock. I'm not sure why you would need the straw or long filter, but I suppose the options are to pull from the straw or oval near where the straw goes in.
It it okay to just leave the fuel on when I park it for long times?
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Post by lain on Apr 18, 2015 11:23:51 GMT -5
Was it clean, or was it lean? Engine running hot is a lean symptom. Fuel cools the engine, so if you have more fuel the engine does not get as hot.
I'm not sure how hot your engine is getting, but I personally do a hand check. I have a high tolerance for heat and cold extremes, so if the CVT case right where the variator is feels burning then I would say it is hot. When I have good fuel to air ratio then after a 10-20 mile ride I can put the back of my hand on the spot I mentioned and it will just feel warm to me.
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Post by lain on Apr 18, 2015 11:20:22 GMT -5
Well if every wire is 100% good, I would move on to checking all hoses by hand by covering the ends and blowing into them to see if air flows or not. If no air flow with the end covered it should be good. If there is air flow with the end covered/plugged then the hose is no good. If those are good I would then check for loose engine bolts or leaks.
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Post by lain on Apr 18, 2015 10:52:26 GMT -5
I am not sure, not from experience, but I think if there is that much play it could cause wear, plus why is it doing that in the first place one has to ask... Just get a new cam, they don't cost much, and you won't have to find out what happens when there is too much play by breaking down and needing a head rebuild which would cost a LOT more...
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