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Post by lain on May 16, 2015 7:55:56 GMT -5
Heat sinks with copper hoses running through them and a radiator to dump the heat in, take a look at how water cooling systems for computers work, same principals can be used on anything metal that gets hot.
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Post by lain on May 15, 2015 21:01:49 GMT -5
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Post by lain on May 15, 2015 20:55:14 GMT -5
Been doing so much hard work today... I love it! So there was also a bar at the bottom of the frame that would have been in the way of the muffler, it is the bar where the center stand attaches, but my engine has the stand on it so I don't need the frame center stand. I cut everything off the frame that I needed to with surprising ease with a lenox high tension hacksaw with medium (24 tooth) blade. I oiled the blade between every cut with gear oil, worked great to make the cutting take less effort and work faster. I am currently at the point where I have the front fork, tree, shocks, wheels, front brake caliper, disc, and the engine mounted. The top pictures show where I am right now. I am finishing tomorrow but I need to take a break, my body aches... but it's hard work so it's great!     This is what I got for a frame from the CL scoot I bought, as you can see it is top mounted:    This is the pesky center stand bar: This is me demonstrating how light the new frame is: These are the cuts I made off the new frame:Top mount:     Center stand (forgot to take pics of the bar cuts too this is just cuts of the welding on the sides of the bar):   This is the finished product of all the cutting:      |
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Post by lain on May 15, 2015 9:08:28 GMT -5
I recently got a 50cc 2004 Geely scooter with a great frame to replace my frame which is all bent now. It appears to have the bottom mount built into the frame but also has the top engine mount welded on the frame. The engine is a 2 stroke top mounted engine, has more than a dozen problems so I'm not going to use the engine at all (let me know if anyone wants it).
I am going to cut the top mount with a hacksaw, will post pics soon.
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Post by lain on May 14, 2015 21:23:40 GMT -5
Got the scooter from CL, it's a top mounted frame and I have a bottom mounted engine. It is the same exact frame except it looks like the top engine mount was welded on. The front end is what's most important, I took the tripletree and handebars off, the bearings and tree and everything looks excellent.
The bottom of the tripletree is about 1cm wider, otherwise everything is the same, same length, and everything, going to see how it works out with the slightly wider one with my current front wheel, if it isn't good I will just use the front wheel from the CL scoot.
I would like to at some point use the CL scoot's frame though, I may just save it for a 150cc scoot project later.
Can a SawAll cut these scoot frames?
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Post by lain on May 14, 2015 0:19:27 GMT -5
I've been there, man. Over Christmas, the shock on the bottom of the frame of my scoot got stuck, and the frame broke before I knew what was going on. I had another 50cc that was old and decrepit, so I tore it down, and put my scoot on that frame. The body didn't fit on it right, though, so it doesn't look totally right. The floorboard doesn't lay right, and the side panels don't fit snug. I'm so sorry to hear about your scoot, buddy! Look in the local trader paper. Go to junkyards, pawnshops, etc. Seems luck is on my side hopefully. Found a scoot on CL with the same exact frame is great condition. Has wheels too. Looks like I may actually end up making my scooter better now. I needed new wheels anyways, my bearings were on the way out. |
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Post by lain on May 13, 2015 22:14:42 GMT -5
There's no junkyards or pawnshops around with scooters. I've already been down this road once, because some dumbsh backed over my front end. I've replaced the entire front end before but now the damage is to the frame as well. I've looked everywhere but the only chance I really have is to buy a used or broken scooter on craigslist, and there aren't as many as you might think. I could also just replace every single piece again...  |
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Post by lain on May 13, 2015 21:29:28 GMT -5
So I have been riding around with my friend for the past few days. I have been letting him use my beloved scoot I put pretty much all my money and effort into for the past couple years... He took too sharp of a turn over a bump and now my entire front end is crooked. Crooked tripletree scraping the inside of the frame, crooked handlebars, destroyed the mounting for the mirror on the right side, the shocks are crooked, the brakes are crooked, a lot of this stuff is recently new too... it's barely manageable now to steer... Ontop of that now the muffler is about to fall off of the exhaust tube, and it's one of those welded on ones.
He's fine, I asked him how he was first, told him to go clean up and gave him some bandages. His hand was scraped, but that's it. I told him beforehand that if he crashed it he's buying me a new one or at least paying for the damages, but now that he actually did I feel bad. I feel bad because my best friend messed up my only treasure. Ugh...
I don't want to gouge his wallet, he's done so much for me in the past, but I can't pay for the damages. I want to find a cheap solution... Does anyone have a 50cc scoot frame with good front end, shocks, wheel, handlebars, etc, they don't need and would let go for a reasonable amount?
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Post by lain on May 13, 2015 11:22:40 GMT -5
I had put in lighter weights the other day to try stuff out, got up to 9k rpm on a level street, and 10k downhill. There is no added power over like 8k though, so there's no point. I of course switched back to my 6.66g weights and only get up to about 7500 max, but that's the highest rpm that will give out useful torque and horsepower. Yes BBK is next on the list, however even if using NCY 61MM BBK and heads would it be just as reliable? I drive a good 3k Miles each summer, for an hour at the time. I've never had issues running all day with a cheap chinese BBK, but I honestly wouldn't take it further than I can push it. That's just me though, tons of other people would. |
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Post by lain on May 13, 2015 10:25:34 GMT -5
I think taking the engine above 8000 RPMs is a little dangerous. I tuned my CVT to max out at 7500. Yes your friend my slightly quicker than you, but he will be broken down much quicker. Maybe instead of trying to match him with RPMs, install a BBK without telling him. I had put in lighter weights the other day to try stuff out, got up to 9k rpm on a level street, and 10k downhill. There is no added power over like 8k though, so there's no point. I of course switched back to my 6.66g weights and only get up to about 7500 max, but that's the highest rpm that will give out useful torque and horsepower. |
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Post by lain on May 12, 2015 8:28:10 GMT -5
Are u still running a 115 main ? If so I'd drop to a 110 and raise the mixture. This will give you the same mixture through most of the throttle range but keep you from running lean on decel. i think but honestly i don't remember it's either 115 or 120, either way ill drop it down and size and see where that leaves me Go up a size in the idle or main jet without changing anything else. I suspect the idle would be the one to change like geh said. |
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Post by lain on May 11, 2015 11:21:52 GMT -5
So I have been tuning this vespa for a week. I ended up switching the carb to a stock CVK carb. Unplugged the tuning screw, it was only a half turn out holy sh!! Tuned it to about 1 and 7/8 out, starts up fine sometimes, needs revving sometimes, always runs perfectly and after moving will idle at stops but if just trying to idle it on the stand it takes revving it for 10 seconds to get it to stay idling.
Had this same exact issue with my other scoot, the 100cc bbk agility. Rose the needle on it to make one notch leaner and it starts perfectly in less than a second without revving every time. I suspect new england weather to make it hard to tune but come on...
The vespa has the stock CVK carb with a non adjustable needle. How do I rig the needle to be leaner? I know you can put spacers to make it richer, but what about leaner?
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Post by lain on May 11, 2015 11:15:02 GMT -5
Might need jets in less than 5 size increments to fine tune it. Keep changing the idle, it sounds like idle circuit giving too much.
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Post by lain on May 11, 2015 10:18:25 GMT -5
I really like the K&S variator , its just a little harder to tune in . this variator is much more sensitive and has to be tuned with the main clutch spring also. The first koso I ever bought was pretty good , but the others were almost impossible to tune and get good belt climb. I was running 9.5 gram weights in the last couple Koso's and that was with a 2000 main clutch spring. You did a great job tuning that thing up. I just did the 50mm BBK on my 50cc Jonway. I put in a 1500 clutch spring(those are a pain to get in the first time. The socket that fits it is the absolutely biggest socket I could find. The nut is a 38mm, but I couldn't find one in metric that big, so I found a 1-1/2" socket, which equals 38.1mm, and it worked!) Some 8g weights came with the BBK, but those kept me at about 5700 rpm, which is too low. The new variator I ordered came with 5g, but those hold me at about about 7300 rpm, which feels too high. I have some 7g ones coming in, and I think if I mix those with the 5's, I will be in the good. We shall see. I also got the 11 pole stator in. I hooked up the 7 wire reg/rect, and it has 3 DC outputs. I'm running everything off of DC, except the enricher, and the tail lights. I have 130 watts of lights hooked up in the front! It handles that no problem. I ride about 35 min in the morning in the dark. I have a little Tim Allen in me, too, because that is probably more than too much light, heh heh. Sounds like we have the same ride and BBK, I found 6.5g weights work the best. |
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Post by lain on May 10, 2015 11:13:02 GMT -5
You've got that thing humming, buddy. I was checking out the thread you made on your variator earlier. That's a nice variator. I just ordered a nicer variator, but it's not the really nice kind. I really like the K&S variator , its just a little harder to tune in . this variator is much more sensitive and has to be tuned with the main clutch spring also. The first koso I ever bought was pretty good , but the others were almost impossible to tune and get good belt climb. I was running 9.5 gram weights in the last couple Koso's and that was with a 2000 main clutch spring. What is the stock clutch spring on 150cc? I have a 150cc engine I'm going to scrap soon, transmission is in impeccable condition. |
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