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Post by lain on May 20, 2015 6:50:45 GMT -5
The engine shroud gives you less cooling than a standard heatsink on a CPU. It just loosely encloses the area for the fan to blow around, a better approach would be to add heatsinks to draw the heat away and have the shroud push the air out the bottom all around, maybe add a fan to the other side. Idk though, I don;t have any overheating so I haven't invested any real time into the idea. The cylinder jug itself is a heat sink with its cooling fins. The shroud is designed to force air through those fins. Without it, turbulence would make the air flow around them instead of through them. But wouldn't adding more heatsinks help? Like to the valve cover? I barely have a shroud anymore and never messed with it, just have some ideas. I just have a warm engine when I stop I can put my hand on the valve cover without getting burned. I like to run a little on the rich side so my engine stays cool. That's all I do for heat management for my ride. |
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Post by lain on May 19, 2015 22:21:34 GMT -5
The engine shroud gives you less cooling than a standard heatsink on a CPU. It just loosely encloses the area for the fan to blow around, a better approach would be to add heatsinks to draw the heat away and have the shroud push the air out the bottom all around, maybe add a fan to the other side. Idk though, I don;t have any overheating so I haven't invested any real time into the idea.
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Post by lain on May 19, 2015 11:15:57 GMT -5
Yes, there's no play, but possibly a broken oil seal now on the left shock. Saw oil on it today. Going to dissasemble and inspect the inner workings of the shocks later when it dries up outside, add some CPVC spacers to the springs to make them stiffer to react to bumps and weight changes faster. When I put the old front shocks on the tree with the old front wheel it does not touch the fairing or frame at all, but the old shocks are rusted on the inside and filled with mud and well over a decade and some old. I would obviously use that if I felt it was safe, but it only has a drum brake and I do not trust drum front brakes, and I like my antilocking front disc brake. Everything is straight, nothing bent, nothing has any play, all SEEMS good till I stop hard or have a passenger and stop regularly. I have enough fork oil to do a few more changes so I may try and see how it is with new oil, and replace the seal I think may be bad with one from the old shocks, you can remove them without rendering them useless right? Front shocks can be disassembled , but he rear shocks are a little more difficult. Not sure if they can be completely disassembled like the front ? Rear isn't a problem with my yellow spring rear shock. Plenty of clearance in the back with or without passenger. Only the front is problematic. |
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Post by lain on May 19, 2015 10:44:09 GMT -5
The forks should not move at all . my front tire is about 1/2 inch or less from the bottom of the front fairing. Its more like 1/4 inch from it. When I stop my tire doesn't hit the fairing at all . I weigh about 215 lbs , so you think with my weight and stopping all of a sudden , the front tire would hit the fairing, but it doesn't. Did you make sure everything was tight and no play anywhere ? Yes, there's no play, but possibly a broken oil seal now on the left shock. Saw oil on it today. Going to dissasemble and inspect the inner workings of the shocks later when it dries up outside, add some CPVC spacers to the springs to make them stiffer to react to bumps and weight changes faster. When I put the old front shocks on the tree with the old front wheel it does not touch the fairing or frame at all, but the old shocks are rusted on the inside and filled with mud and well over a decade and some old. I would obviously use that if I felt it was safe, but it only has a drum brake and I do not trust drum front brakes, and I like my antilocking front disc brake. Everything is straight, nothing bent, nothing has any play, all SEEMS good till I stop hard or have a passenger and stop regularly. I have enough fork oil to do a few more changes so I may try and see how it is with new oil, and replace the seal I think may be bad with one from the old shocks, you can remove them without rendering them useless right? |
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Post by lain on May 19, 2015 8:14:02 GMT -5
Either replace the head with a new one since the exhaust port is on the head, unless it's a 2 stroke, or retap the hole and get a new stud. Remove the head before you tap it though, you don't wan't shavings flying in ur eye as you attempt to do it from the bottom of the scoot lol. A new head may be cheaper than a tap kit for it though, at least when I had the same exact issue I found the kit was $30 and the stud was $2, the new head was $30, easy choice. Either way, don't forget to get new gaskets, the old ones will create vacuum leaks if you try to reuse them and will ultimately destroy your engine. Either BBK or stock is purely up to you. I run 100cc BBK and get about 60-70 mpg, I fill up once a week and drive at least 10 miles a day. I think mpg is more dependant on your carb tuning than the size of the chamber where the explosions happen. Carbs draw in and mix fuel, cylinders, pistons and heads just are a space where the fuel is turned into explosions that create the power that propels you forward. This is the BBK I use: www.ebay.com/itm/like/161018154007?lpid=82 |
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Post by lain on May 19, 2015 7:04:48 GMT -5
After having to rebuild my scoot I have had many different issues, but this is the worst.
The tripletree and shocks are not bent, there is no mechanical issue. The frame has the tripletree angled inwards at the bottom, the frame i took for parts had 16.5 inch long shocks, I am using 16 inch shocks on it now. When I stop or go fast my front wheel rubs against the frame. I had to cut the fairing behind the wheel because it was constantly rubbing the wheel.
I need to figure out what to do about this. I have been doing research and figure there are a few possible solutions, but I have little faith in all of them. I need about an inch or more of clearance when I am sitting on the scoot, especially with my girlfriend.
I've thought of putting pvc pipe in my shocks to compress the springs and possibly limit travel up the shocks.
I've thought of getting longer shocks but don't see any longer than 16.5 inches...
The last resort I could think of is to take a mallet or something to the frame to bend it to aim further outwards, but I highly doubt that would work and feel it would just cause issues too...
Nothing is bent or damaged with the frame I'm using, the old wheels that were on it looked slightly smaller, my current wheels are taller, the wheels that came with the frame are slightly shorter but also have wear marks as if they too may have been rubbing the fairing.
Has anyone tried rebuilding the front shocks with pit bike shocks and adding a bracket and support rod to the longer shocks to support them?
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Post by lain on May 18, 2015 16:15:47 GMT -5
Well I'm not talking about a muffler with expansion chamber, but just a muffler/tube welded together type factory style muffler that is currently rusting on a 2 stroke hopeless engine I have in the corner of my yard. My current muffler is literally falling apart and being held together with some weird muffler repair kit stuff I got months ago. Still holding after the fall surprisingly.
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Post by lain on May 18, 2015 15:06:56 GMT -5
iicr i think Leo put a 2-stroke pipe on his old 4-stroke. get some info from him imo. Did you do this too? Are you still using it? I am thinking there is not much differences, but maybe difference in how much air they let pass? Like different exhaust compression? |
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Post by lain on May 18, 2015 14:59:32 GMT -5
My muffler is in pretty bad shape after my friend crashed my scoot. I have a muffler from an old 2 stroke, looks the same size hole for the exhaust port but the angle is different. If I mounted it it would be aiming about 30 degrees off to the side from the back.
Is there any difference between mufflers for 2 strokes and 4 strokes? Can I bend the muffler tube to be the correct angle to mount properly to use it?
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Post by lain on May 18, 2015 7:25:09 GMT -5
So I cut the plastic on the front behind the wheel to give it more space because I found that the wheel and plastic were also grinding on stops. Since then the wheel only barely touches the frame at super hard stops, the muffler is still an issue but I've found avoiding potholes helps.
I am thinking, what if I just make the shocks stiffer somehow? Like add washers or something to the spring? That might prevent it from going low enough to be a problem?
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Post by lain on May 17, 2015 1:23:39 GMT -5
I essesntially built a low rider scoot, but I don;t want to have to replace my muffler often. If I could find a way to wrap the tube in something that won't grind off that would be great, but I'd rather lift up. I need higher clearance, not to grind my muffler off.
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Post by lain on May 17, 2015 1:00:10 GMT -5
Posting pics tomorrow.
I got everything together but the front wheel dips down and rubs the wheel fairings both front and back, the worst part is when I hit bumps the muffler tube scrapes the ground... I am thinking if I get longer front shocks it will lift it up off the ground more to provide the clearance I need. Right?
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Post by lain on May 16, 2015 11:42:47 GMT -5
So as I was moving my electrical wiring from one frame to the other I noticed my rectifier plug looked burned, so I unplugged it and there are burn marks on the plug and the rectifier has a black burn mark with somewhat of a hole coming out from between the top 2 terminals (it is a 4 pin rectifier).
Last I checked the lights were working and my battery charges great, and was already full when I took it out of the scoot.
What could cause this to happen? Wires look good. The top left terminal looks corroded or something, like it is turning brass and blue colored from silver.
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Post by lain on May 16, 2015 9:03:15 GMT -5
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Post by lain on May 16, 2015 8:36:27 GMT -5
Why not use nitro ? Instead of running it through the intake. , have it blow around the engine ! Of course you would need a lot of it , and you would go through it like crazy . Because you'd end up paying so much for nitro you might arise suspicion from the fuzz not to mention go broke. They'll think you are a kid doing baloons or something. You'd waste like an entire can before you even finish your errands I would think, need to refill more often than fuel, etc. Just put a heatsink on the valve cover, run tubes through it to a radiator, pump it somehow, that should draw a lot of the heat away from th engine. |
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