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Post by lain on Jun 19, 2015 10:39:33 GMT -5
I used a 2 block stone hone. I actually honed it by hand, didn't have a drill on hand. Made perfect 45 degree crosshatches, wish I had a camera when I was doing it. I just taped the hone handle with grip tape and rotated it by hand. I was just mentioning it because I thought it may be slightly relevant.
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Post by lain on Jun 19, 2015 8:30:51 GMT -5
While I'm in this thread and because I don't have school anymore...do you guys have any ideas for any fun/cheap mods I can to to make my scoot run better or look cooler? I'll be really bored when not working and I figure I'll do something constructive. I'm already planning on a uni but I don't know what else to do. Maybe some LEDs? It's a 2007 Jacket 150s with a completely stock GY6 engine...I know it's a pretty cheap scooter but I'll mainly just be put-putting around on it anyways Look around your house for things that aren't on a scooter, then put them on! I've hooked up TVs, underbody lights, usb chargers, lighters, radios, comm. devices (2 way radios and handsfree setup for phones), CB radios, christmas lights, plasma balls, extra horns, car horns, anything with a 12v power input, just get creative! |
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Post by lain on Jun 18, 2015 10:07:50 GMT -5
Something just came to mind from one of your earlier posts. You initially used Synthetic oil on the Brand new BBK. I noted this and you were going to change to Dino Oil for the rest of the top end break in. Ive had issues in the past with going to Syth, to quickly and found it nearly impossible to seat the new rings to the new bore. Had to use a Dyno with a break to really crank down on engine load that could not be duplicated on the street to seat the new rings. I sure hope this is not your problem of excessive blow by caused by initial start up and run with Synth Oil. I used 0w-40 Synth Mobil1 to break in the new rings I put in mine recently. Was all I had at the time. Drove my 100 to break in the new rings, got paid, then changed out to 10w-40 SAE Pennzoil. The old oil looked as to be expected, had lots of very tiny "glitter dust" in it like it should have after breakin. I rode most of the 100 in one day though so that may be the key factor as to why the lightweight synth worked for me for this. |
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Post by lain on Jun 18, 2015 8:45:23 GMT -5
Besides breaking in a new engine valves usually tighten from use, the exhaust tightens more because it is the hottest valve. That horribly off gap might have been a big issue with trying to start it before.
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Post by lain on Jun 17, 2015 23:36:17 GMT -5
Ok I found the reccommended maintenance schedule. It says to check valve clearance every 4000km. It only says 0.12 so im assuming thats in MM and not IN. What clearance do you guys recommend i run? The generic manual says 0.05in I saw a post that said 0.04 for both, and another that said 0.04 on intake 0.05 on exhaust. What do you guys think? It is a 2005 roketa 150cc scoot, with 6k on the odometer(unsure if its KMs or Miles) baseed of gy6 I also have a problem with the center kickstand. It doesnt lock into place. when i rock it back the kickstand just slides forward. It never locks into place with the rear wheel lifted.  Where did you get that? Nomatter how you measure it 0.12 is waaaaaaay too open for any scooter. I've never followed a chart, I make my own schedules and have OCD about maintaining my scoots. They carry me everywhere I want to go so I repay them with checkups and maintenance every month, including checking valves. I do not run 150's, but I have never seen anyone recommend a gap larger than 0.005 inches which according to every manual is still excessive, though running loose is better than tight. I personally run 0.004 on a "100cc" BBK. I have ran as large as 0.005 without issues as well, usually during the winter because larger gaps with lighter oil (0w-40) will get you started easier in below freezing temps, but you don't need to worry about the cold for a while ya? lol I have seen some excellent spray can jobs on scoots, so good you can't tell it was painted. Get the high quality cans at an auto store, krylon is my fave. You need to spray in small shots while moving. It's hard to explain, I'll post a video tomorrow demonstrating how to paint body plastic to look good if you'd like? If the numbers on the top row of the speedo are km (usually the higher numbers on the speedo) then your odometer is most likely km, and vice versa. The center stand is simple, take it off and figure why it isn't working. Possibly bent somehow. |
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Post by lain on Jun 17, 2015 11:35:40 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Jun 17, 2015 11:25:20 GMT -5
lain I put about a 2mm bead on it..It didnt really ooze out anywhere. I followed the manufacturers directions and let it sit about an hour before torquing down the bolts. I didnt want to pull out the original gasket because it looked so brittle that it wouldve problably split somewhere upon removal. The rtv is rated for up to 750F. Oh, I thought you replaced the gasket with rtv, lol my bad. That's not as bad, but may still be an issue later, especially when you decide to pop it open to check the valve gaps. It will tear, there is a chance when you pull it off some pieces may fall into the chain passageway and you'll be trying to grab tiny pieces while listening to Yakety Sax  I personally would have put it under the gasket, and first moistened the gasket for an hour with seafoam so it wouldn't crack on removal. I've been using seafoam for everything lately lol, already used it in the above way to remove horribly dry carb bowl gaskets from old scoots. Also is your rtv good on direct contact with oil or gas? Mine isn't, I have the permatex brand. |
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Post by lain on Jun 17, 2015 11:17:15 GMT -5
She has about 2000 miles on her, and I generally use her almost every day except for the weekends. I change her oil every 800 miles, so I've changed the oil twice. The valves were adjusted for the first time by me about a month ago. Since then, no one had adjusted the valves since I first bought it. The Scooter is not stored during Winter months. I typically use it during the winter months (I live in california). I have not cleaned the carb since I bought her, which has been about two years, so that might definitely be the first thing I do. As a fellow winter rider I would suggest cleaning the carb after winter even if it runs well. Salt and traction sand can be sucked in. How's the filter look? Clean that every 500 miles. Make sure to oil the filter with filter oil to prevent small debris from passing the filter. |
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Post by lain on Jun 17, 2015 10:42:14 GMT -5
Go back and remove that rtv before you go starting it up... That is just a horrible idea man. It will come off in pieces and clog the oil passages. The only way to prevent that would be to use so little it wouldn't work. Get some valve cover gaskets, they are cheap, or just use the old one till you get a new one, and rotate it so the flat spot on the old gqasket is facing inwards towards the middle, it will give you a little more use, but RTV will come off in pieces as the engine vibrates then one day your engine will be overheating, or worse...
Also, if you are only storing it with no permission to mod or repair it I would put everything back and wait for permission. You can get screwd over for doing anything beyond the original wishes of the owner, but if it's just a friend I would go ahead and restore it and make it look new as a surprise present for a friend.
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Post by lain on Jun 16, 2015 16:32:19 GMT -5
I've almost put in the hundred to break in the new rings, been riding all day and haven't heard that horrible sound once yet. |
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Highbeam
by: lain - Jun 15, 2015 21:33:38 GMT -5
Post by lain on Jun 15, 2015 21:33:38 GMT -5
Are the filaments okay? Are the terminals for the bulb touching the end of the bulb? Pull the light fixture out of the lamp and trace all the wires and make sure none of them look fried, cut up, or disconnected.
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Post by lain on Jun 15, 2015 21:26:20 GMT -5
Are you trying to get the filter to fill up while the carb has gas in it already? If the carb bowl is full it cuts off the flow, so even if the tank is letting the petcock open nothing will flow until the demand arises. Also if fuel was unable to flow it would not come out of the carb.
Take apart your carb, make sure all passageways are entirely clean. Do not use carb cleaner with rubber or plastic parts still in the carb, and flush it out with gas or seafoam before putting any plastic or rubber back. Carb cleaner has been known to eat through some materials, and ontop of that cleaners can taint the gas that passes through the carb if it wasn't flushed out first and give you no starts, or poor starts, or poor performance and idling or all of the above and more. I've had to go back before and do it again, but some times I was able to just put seafoam into the carb and keep turning the engine until it flushed out enough to be useful.
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Post by lain on Jun 15, 2015 15:36:11 GMT -5
If you have the knowledge, tuning your engine yourself will help you understand it better and be in tune with it so to say
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Post by lain on Jun 15, 2015 14:27:21 GMT -5
I thought he was talking about the tank vent?
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Post by lain on Jun 15, 2015 11:47:41 GMT -5
The important thing is the engine is running great now without issues and I can count on it again to use as my passenger carrying and far going scoot, my 50cc is my town scoot again now lol.
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