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Post by lain on Aug 24, 2015 13:01:15 GMT -5
Well I finally got a refund today.The seller stopped communicating when I asked for either an undamaged kit or a refund. so I decided to press the return button on ebay. The seller did nothing, ignored the request so I ended up calling ebay because 2 days after it gave me the option to click to have ebay step in it would not allow me to go to the page, turned out to be a glitch but the people on ebays customer support hotline helped me out. Ebay got the money back from the seller and refunded me and now I have a paperweight that only cost me some time.
I will not be buying from that seller again, or buying any funny name brands ever again... ha learned my lesson, everyone else should learn from me and save themselves the hassle, buy name brand scooter parts or be prepared to deal with complications.
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Post by lain on Aug 24, 2015 11:45:03 GMT -5
No, it's not obstructed at all.
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by: lain - Aug 23, 2015 15:52:19 GMT -5
Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 15:52:19 GMT -5
OK, have spark, but it seems to be going from strong to weak, strong to weak, every other spark. Either you have a bad ground wire, or no ground wire at all connected to the engine and the frame, or your ignition coil or cdi is dying. They sell CDI and coil combos and even with spark plugs on ebay. You could also just order the good quality parts from some reputable distributor like scrappy. |
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Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 15:19:28 GMT -5
Replace the fuel petcock, they are easy to replace. i actually got a manual fuel petcock made for lawn mowers at advancedautoparts nearby and it hasn't let me down since. I find a lot o lawnmower parts work with scooters, even the lawn mower solenoids!
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Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 13:39:38 GMT -5
This carb I have is really bugging me. I can start the bike if I use starter fluid or gas in the intake, but it won;t stay running after the start fluid/fuel runs out. While the engine is pumping the gas in the fuel line leading to the carb slowly rises closer and closer to the tank above it. The gas however does not flow through the carb. The float seems okay, nothing is clogged at all... What the heck... The tank is vented through the cap, I tried without the cap just to make sure but still the same thing. I have never seen this phenomenon before, why would gas refuse to flow through the carb but accumulate and rise in the fuel line?
The fuel petcock is manual, not vaccuum operated. The carb is very old by the way, like 15 to 25 years old. I am so frustrated, I do not understand how this carb defies physics... I mean if it wasn't able to flow why would more gas keep getting into the fuel line? I rebuilt the carb, made my own gaskets, the weird thing is there did not seem to be a single diaphragm... Maybe it is in a part you cannot remove or get to?
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by: lain - Aug 23, 2015 13:35:56 GMT -5
Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 13:35:56 GMT -5
Can you go further into detail? When I do the same thing with my scooters the botom lip of the air intake part of the carb drips with gas when I remove my hand. Are you saying there was only enough gas to make sort of a mist on your hand but no actual droplets anywhere? There were droplets on the bottom part of my hand, but my hand was barely wet towards the top. That's good then. Like JR and Jerry said, have you checked for spark when it dies? I know this may sound kind of hard, testing something that happens seemingly random, but it could help. Before I got a Casoli CDI my CDI's died every couple months. Some CDIs are just crud. If you are thinking of getting repacement electric components get a casoli cdi. Also get a real red or orange wire coil. Scrappydogscooters.com sells real stuff, I would check there for those parts. When my CDI's die they usually would die out randomly and I would have to wait for it to cool to start up again, same thing with coils, they act funny when dying. |
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by: lain - Aug 23, 2015 11:38:42 GMT -5
Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 11:38:42 GMT -5
Lain, I have not but will try that now. Thank you. Well, gas is moving, but it was just a mist, hand smells like gas, not necessarily a bad thing. Is that what I was looking for? or should it have been more substantial? Can you go further into detail? When I do the same thing with my scooters the botom lip of the air intake part of the carb drips with gas when I remove my hand. Are you saying there was only enough gas to make sort of a mist on your hand but no actual droplets anywhere? |
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Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 11:36:58 GMT -5
Here's a good video explainig the function and how to test the elctric components, including the stator. The video shows a piaggio/vespa system but it's essentially the same, but on chinese scooters the ignition coil and cdi are seperate devices.
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by: lain - Aug 23, 2015 10:38:32 GMT -5
Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 10:38:32 GMT -5
It's possible that even though gas gets to the carb that it cannot move from the carb to the engine if a passageway is clogged or dirty. Have you cleaned out the carb and checked everything? You can check to see if gas flows into the venturi by removing the air filter from the carb temporarily and holding your hand over the air intake while trying to start, if gas is flowing it will get your hand wet. If it is not, your hand will be dry.
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Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 9:25:29 GMT -5
Since you installed a new cylinder are you sure your timing is correct? Yeah like Joey says, are you sure? You have to make sure to set them at very small gaps (0.003 to 0.005 in. are what valves are usually set to) so you can't really guess on it or you'll end up with a useless bike until it is done right. |
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Post by lain on Aug 23, 2015 9:02:02 GMT -5
Hopefully I'll have it all done tomorrow on my day off--- bolts out and forks on. I'd rather be in the sun doing it than my clustered garage anyway. Those phillip screw heads suck in that location. I knew they were going to be a pain. I'd have no problem getting them out with a socket if they were that style. Oh well. Lol. I think I'll take the hex/washer route myself hillbillybob. Oh I didn't realize we were talking about the phillips head screws on the fender, yeah those royally are a pain and are usually rusted and hard to remove on any bike when you go to remove them. I personally just unscrew them with vice grips by really gripping the head with the vice grips so much that it digs it's teeth into the head. Remove the screw, clean the hole with wd40 rust remover and some soap and warm water, finish with regular wd40 or the same rust remover you used to prevent rust. Spray the hole with antiseize or something (I use graphite lube, it is dry lube and wipes off easy with a wet rag) screw in a new bolt, a hex top bolt for sure not a silly phillips head, and enjoy your work. If in a bind and want to remove the bolt before going to the store, zipties hold the fender on well for short trips, especially since the fender already connects to the axel rod. |
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Post by lain on Aug 22, 2015 20:48:12 GMT -5
what arms?  With centrifugal clutches, when it spins and gets to a certain rpm there are "arms" with brake pad like pads at the end of these arms that "clutch" onto the bell of the clutch. When it does this it engages the gears and rest of the transmission in order to transfer engine output power to the rear wheel. If it is working improperly and does not stop "clutching" the bell then when the rear wheel stops moving it will force the engine to stop as well since the clutch wouldn't disengage so the movement of the rear wheel would be linked to the movement of the engine. |
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Post by lain on Aug 22, 2015 18:05:14 GMT -5
So I have this bike and the issue with it seems to be gas delivery. Now I took apart the carb and cleaned it meticulouslywith a variety of different width wires and about 3 cans of carb cleaner. I checked the lines, all good, gas flows fast if disconnected from the carb (it has a manual petcock). Inside the carb the floater is a metal floater, no rust, some old residue from gas but all that could be cleaned off has been, however one side of the float is bent a little bit inwards. Would that effect float and cause it to not let gas flow through the carb? It starts every time when I put some gas in the air intake side of the carb and start it up at the same tie and will run until the gas is gone from the intake side. No gas seems to flow through the fuel line (clear tubing so I can see). All jets and passageways are clear in the carb. I literally spent 3 hours cleaning the jets alone until they were spotless, they had very hard gas clogging them and the atomiser, but as I said I meticulously cleaned the carb and the only thing I noticed was the floater was a little bent.
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Post by lain on Aug 22, 2015 15:26:59 GMT -5
If you wana keep the cvt and run a jackshaft n chain to a sprocket check out how the guys do it for their yanmar diesel motorcycle conversions. They use a go cart cvt (youll just use your gy6s) then to a jackshaft which is prettt cheap to a sprocket its pretty cool how they set up their little 10hp generators to their bikes Got any links or anything I can look at to get more ideas? |
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by: lain - Aug 22, 2015 13:49:09 GMT -5
Post by lain on Aug 22, 2015 13:49:09 GMT -5
I did the valves one week ago, I set them both to .005 and it ran great for a day. then started doing the same thing again. I have the bike apart, I will recheck the lash in both, the scoot has good spark, but wont even start now and I dont smell gas when I try to start it, I think I may have but the carb back together wrong and the floats are not operating properly. because it starts runs for awhile and dies like its out of fuel. I hope anyway. Yeah that was the next thing I was going to suggest, checking the float. It sounds like a fuel issue to me. |
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