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Post by lain on Nov 4, 2015 19:53:45 GMT -5
Well when you use a larger carb you also allow a larger band of air to enter which may be ratio-wise the same as the old carb but in quantity there is more gas to explode and more air to use to explode the gas which in turn creates more torque. Bigger more forceful explosions happening in the combustion chamber will force the piston away from the chamber with much more power, of course there is always a limit to how much particles you can fit in there. If you can figure out how to put more in there than physically possible your next project will most likely be a Tardis, lol.
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Post by lain on Nov 4, 2015 16:25:03 GMT -5
Just swapped my stock 24mm carburetor on my 150cc for a 30mm carburetor form GY6 Racing Team. Give me a few days to fine tune it, and then I'll have some statistics on performance. Standby for the results..... Yes Size matters. Stock Motor? I believe that is what he may have said. |
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Post by lain on Nov 4, 2015 16:02:06 GMT -5
The airbox is after the carb, the engine is what provides the carb with vaccuum pressure. make sure the lines are hooked up correctly.
If you fell then rode away right after theres a chance the fall loosened your stator wires and having an already heated up engine made it possible to ride home with loose wires.
I'd also check the valve gaps just in case, if you've had it for 3 years and never set them you should be overdue to set them. I'd also check to make sure the fuel is flowing through the petcock and also to make sure it is moving through the carb. depending on how you fell maybe theres a chance you hit the carb hard, the intake manifold bends but the spacer is very cheap plastic and could crack easily. I'd also throw some seafoam (its a product) in there to resolve any question of gas quality issues.
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Post by lain on Nov 4, 2015 12:57:25 GMT -5
Bearings. Crank depends on bearings also. Well, I'm also noticing when it runs it pours oil through a tiny hole in the rear middle of the case in front of the wheel and behind the crank. I'm surprised though, the scooter never lost performance or stalled or anything when I had the engine in there, but did smell like burning oil right at the end before I removed it. I was able to ride it home the day it started acting up real bad, I had to drive about 40 miles and it made it home and coasted around 50 on the faster roads. It also kept working fine but the noise was too much I had to remove it. |
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Post by lain on Nov 4, 2015 12:37:47 GMT -5
What do I do if my 150cc scooters new motor is ac when the bike is wired up for DC? What parts would I need etc? I had the same thing happen when I had to replace a 150cc engine for a friend. What I did was I ordered a flywheel puller and removed the stator from the old engine and put it in the new engine, then hooked up everything up as I normally would with the old engine but now using the new engine. If you don't have the old engine you can just order a stator with dc wire hookup that matches the stator wires. |
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Post by lain on Nov 4, 2015 10:57:09 GMT -5
So after fully removing everything from the transmission and getting it to start with just the crank and topend minus the transmission the noise was still there, so I have come to the conclusion that with over 40k miles this engine is done, period. The topend is brand new, the crank is all that's left. I also checked the flywheel and stator and everything was tight so it wasn't that either. It's definitely the crank, I mean it's got to be right?
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Post by lain on Nov 2, 2015 20:05:21 GMT -5
yep exactly,,,,,sometimes those swages can be a beast to get apart,,, You're telling me man, I've already broken a gear puller and a claw puller, and all from being pressed on only jeez |
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Post by lain on Nov 2, 2015 16:47:06 GMT -5
heat the flywheel and cool the shaft with ice,,,that may break it free Can you explain how one would cool the shaft with ice? Like hold an ice cube on the end? |
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Post by lain on Nov 2, 2015 9:24:09 GMT -5
Do you guys think it would be a good idea to try to run it around the block a couple times to heat up the engine and then try to take it off, or would the risk of damaging the crank be too great?
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Post by lain on Nov 1, 2015 21:48:59 GMT -5
This is what I have to work with:
Impact wrench powered by 5 gallon compressor
The same butterfly shaped remover tool as tvnacman has above
rubber mallet
hammer
a brick
various nuts and bolts
hair dryer
rubber strap wrench
screwdrivers and wrenches
wd40
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Post by lain on Nov 1, 2015 21:42:17 GMT -5
Well since one of the arms on my claw broke while attempting to remove the flywheel I really wouldn't want to get a tool on loan then have to pay for it because it breaks too. This this is like impossibly on there. To think it isn't even screwed in and it is that strong of a hold.
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Post by lain on Nov 1, 2015 21:27:23 GMT -5
how about your 3 jaws with a slide hammer? Can't, don't have a slide hammer and can't afford it. |
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Post by lain on Nov 1, 2015 21:25:24 GMT -5
That's one of the ways I tried but it didn't work. It kept bending and the threads kept stripping and getting messed up on the fan holes until they weren't holding anymore. |
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Post by lain on Nov 1, 2015 17:55:02 GMT -5
You can build a small displacement chair rocker  As soon as I saw it I thought it was a joke, then he started it up and the old lady fell apart before the chair! lol I guess that goes to show the importance of riding gear! |
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Post by lain on Nov 1, 2015 17:46:09 GMT -5
I am trying to use my spare 50cc engine in my main scooter now. The only problem it has is the oil pump no longer works and the flywheel threads are all stripped and the flywheel needs to be replaced but the shaft is still good and it runs very well.
So as I said above the threads are stripped, all of them, the middle ones for the removal tool and the ones for the fan bolts. I tried using a 3 arm claw to no avail. Would it really be that bad to run with the bad oil pump? I really want to replace it though, I have 5 of them brand new in my parts bin.
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