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Post by justin010304 on Jul 1, 2013 11:41:12 GMT -5
I'm all set with Harley's. I want nothing to do with them, noisy, unbalanced, slow, over priced bikes.
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 1, 2013 4:17:20 GMT -5
Looks like a blast!
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 22:12:31 GMT -5
You're not going to see any improvement in performanceif that's what your asking.
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 19:05:34 GMT -5
I found a windshield slowed me down. Adding more power allows the option for gears later if you still aren't happy with what you have.
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 18:07:39 GMT -5
If your willing to split the cases for a stroker crank why wouldn't you bore the cases? I vote stroker crank and bore the cases. Later you can add any big bore kit you choose if the added TQ isn't enough.
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Sparkles
by: justin010304 - Jun 30, 2013 13:24:22 GMT -5
Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 13:24:22 GMT -5
If you would have seen it in the sun it was way overkill. The metallic flake was ridiculous!
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 12:03:17 GMT -5
I wouldn't be afraid to just run rtv. Area 808 garage does it to bump up compression.
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Sparkles
by: justin010304 - Jun 30, 2013 9:03:40 GMT -5
Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 9:03:40 GMT -5
Speedometer pro
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 8:55:40 GMT -5
Pulling the base gasket and just using a bead of rtv is a common practice. Also running ncy flat SS valves will help bump up compression. Be careful though too much compression will cause detonation without proper octane fuel.
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Scooter-van
by: justin010304 - Jun 30, 2013 8:38:19 GMT -5
Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 8:38:19 GMT -5
I fit one in the back or a Chevy Astro van with the mirrors off.
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 8:28:26 GMT -5
From what I can tell I need the rear cover that goes over the transmission gears, but I don't know if the gears are going to be the same or not (lengths and tooth count). I think my oil pump will work, looks like the ports line up. I'm not sure of the cvt stuff is going to swap over or not yet. If I had the crank in my hands I would start putting everything back together and see what is missing/ doesn't work but it never showed up with the cases I need to call Monday about it. Im assuming the brake stuff will all swap over but I'm not positive. As for actually mounting the motor back in the scooter hopefully my shock will still work, not sure yet as the mounting points are different distances.
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Sparkles
by: justin010304 - Jun 30, 2013 8:21:12 GMT -5
Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 8:21:12 GMT -5
Picked up this scooter last year for $300 from a lady who didn't know she needed a motorcycle lisence to drive it. It is a BKM Sauron by Vento. She went down on it when she first got it and had it painted bright sparkly red, hideous IMO.  I rode it for a few months then decided I needed to have it painted. I went with a platinum gray metallic.   While I had the plastic off I took the oppurtunity to upgrade the horn. I picked up a WOLO model 419 bad boy horn www.wolo-mfg.com/air.htm . I found a spot under the front plastic just big enough to fit the horn. Set it up with a relay to make sure the wiring wouldn't fry. While I was in there I deleted the alarm system, didnt want to risk it leaving me stranded. After another a couple more weeks I decided I wanted to change to a foam filter from the factory air box. I picked up a foam filter from scrappydogscooters, what a mistake that that was. I put it on and I couldn't get the jetting correct for the life of me. Initially I took it out and it wouldn't pull past half throttle. I tried a larger jet, no go. Tried another still didn't work, put the stock jet back and it was a little better, put in a smaller jet and it got even better. Finally I pulled the filter back off and looked at it.  The "high flow filter" wasn't very high flow, more like choke flow! Threw it in the trash and picked up a uni filter. What a world of difference! Better flow for sure! Up till this point I never played with the variation weights because it seemed to go pretty good. Well I thought I would try out some different stuff. I weighed wheat was in there, turned out to be 11g rollers. So I ordered some 10g and 12g rollers to see what it liked. Both lost top speed, 10's rev'd too high and 12's wouldn't rev high enough, they both lost top speed. So, the 11's went back in. Went out and did a top speed run, 62.6 mph on flat ground tucked down. This is with a basically stock 125, no fancy spark plug, high performance coil, nothing besides an air filter.  That was about the end of last season. That brings up up to this year. Decided I wanted more power and speed to cruise to work on 55mph roads. Put the scooter in the garage and pulled the motor out and ordered parts. TAIDA valve cover TAIDA Ti retainers NCY 61mm cylinder and head Bored cases from kspower 2.2mm stroked crank from kspower BanJin heavy duty starter clutch NCY 16/38 gears NCY valve springs NCY SS high compression valves Gates powerlink 842 belt 1.5k rpm clutch spring I also picked up starter clutch tool, flywheel puller and a couple pullers to combine so I could pull the kick start gear off. So far during the tear down process I have figured out that this freak of a motor has a taller head, longer valves, longer cam chain, longer head studs, fits a 13" tire even though it is a shortcase, and the oil pump sprocket is held on with a c clip not a bolt. The starter idle gear and pin is different the old one won't fit in the new cases, it's too big. All the transmission gears are different. The oil pump sheet metal cover is different, the mounting holes are further apart. |
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 5:51:51 GMT -5
I'll also add for the archives this motor also had a taller head than the standard 157 motor, along with longer engine studs and cam chain. The exhaust flange is also clocked so you would have to modify a normal scoot exhaust to make it fit. The oil pump sproket is held on with a c clip not a bolt. I'll note any other changes I may find.
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 5:17:56 GMT -5
My case is the one on the left. The belt that I was running was an 842 20 30. The engine code is VE153QMI-3
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Post by justin010304 on Jun 30, 2013 0:45:00 GMT -5
Even if I ordered a short case set of cases it wouldn't work with what I have! The gear box area is completely different. Like I said, I'm running a long case belt so I thought that was enough confirmation it would be a long case. Either way I need to figure out what else I need to complete the transmission, I think I have everything else.
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