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I'd ride the helix as is for a while and gain some experience, then move to a motorcycle. Older goldwings are pretty inexpensive, if you keep your eyes out and they are really forgiving bikes, especially if you go with the 1500cc.

I went from a 150, then a 250, then an Aprillia 500cc (most heavy feeling of the group, worse parking lot manners then my 1100cc goldwing) If I had to do it again, I would of done the 150 then moved to the goldwing. Out of all the bikes I've ridden, the 150 was the most fun.... the Aprillia 500cc was very comfortable at 90mph on the freeway (with plenty of throttle left top speed was like 105), and the goldwing is my baby!

Again, Goldwings aint sport bikes, so don't let the size scare ya.... The 1500 is as easy to ride as a 250 scooter, just a little heavy when it's not moving, but not bad.... The 1100, 1200 and 1000 are very easy to work on as well but the 1500 is the most forgiving to ride of the group.

go to .004 on both valves. I used to run my at .003 but it was a 150.

This will be counter intuitive... but it will hold the exhaust valve open a little longer and it will open a little earlier and close a little later. It will actually lower the crank case pressure.

What kind of oil are you using during break in? you might not of run it hard enough.to seat the rings.

Did you clock the rings when you installed them? (all ring gaps should be degrees from each other so that they don't line up)... And you have probably posted this, but what's your valve gap?

I still think the rings didn't seat. How many miles has the BBK been on it? How did you break it in, etc.

Symptoms of worn or not seated rings.... higher crank case pressures (your valve cover vent hose), combustion by products contaminating the oil, and of course, low compression.

Is the plug oily?

On the carb issue, I'd pull it and clean it and check for vacuum leaks.

I don't think it's the valves, if he has compression. if you spray starter fluid and it's not starting and it has compression, then it's a spark issue, or the carb isn't on it (even if you took the carb off, and sprayed starting fluid down the intake manifold, it should start and run util it burns all the starting fluid, if you have spark and compression.

Check the valves, just because it's cheap and it rules it out but I think you will find it's in the ignition somewhere.

How are you testing for spark?

I second (or was it third) valve adjustment.

You usually have to adjust them pretty early the first time. (break in)

ok... readjust the valves....

will it run if you spray carb cleaner in the carb throat while hitting the starter?

This one's a tricky one, simply because you haven't been able to re-create the problem, yet..

Next time it does it, try removing the gas cap in case the tank is not venting properly.

Just change the filter. They are cheap and will eliminate a source of failure. It's good practice to change it at the beginning of the season anyway.

Other possibilties....

sticking needle valve in the carb. they usually stick open, not closed tho but with it sitting it might have a little goop up in there (and yes, goop is a technical term).... If it does it again, and removing the gas cap doesn't do it, give the float bowl a sharp rap with the handle of a screwdriver. If that gets it restarted, then it's time to open the carb and give it a good cleaning.

could also be a bad cdi, or coil. CDI's and coils, when they are going bad, often misbehave when they get warm. And yes, sometimes they go just sitting. Carry an extra spark plug and if it dies, use the spare plug to see if you have spark. (never remove a plug from a hot or warm engine if you can help it, it's really hard on the heads spark plug threads)...