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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 14:53:51 GMT -5
Right now it has Castrol synthetic blend in it. 10w40. The starter clutch has three starts on it. Gonna yank it apart again tomorrow. I just hate draining the oil again. it's like 10 bucks a quart. What is the boric acid treatment?
I am actually hoping that this scooter is brilliant when it's done... and it probably will be, but right now, it's a PITA... and the biggest piece of crap I've worked on.
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awesomeness
by: urbanmadness - Apr 19, 2013 14:34:20 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 14:34:20 GMT -5
My buddy just bought a Piaggio BV500 "Beverly".. Totally awesome bike. I had to ride it home for him (life is soooo hard but I gotta help my freidns when I can, LOL)...
Very fast and smooth bike and it has like 22k on the clock. Paints not the best but very nice bike. A bit heavy but it's also a 460cc bike. Let just say, I got it to 75 and it was still pulling hard.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 8:24:40 GMT -5
[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]It's not kicking back when it's starting, it's kicking back when it dies... Maybe kickback is the wrong term for this. The CDI is so buried in this thing that I haven't even seen it. I will take a look saturday and see if it's a stock one.
I'm gonna take it apart again, on saturday....
I guess I'll screw down that idle speed screw before starting it next time, then back it down when it's running.
I gotta say, I'm not real impressed with 250's. At least not so far. I love the 150s tho.
You were talking about the thrust washer... do the 250's have this on the starter clutch?
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 1:48:18 GMT -5
Yup, I bought one too... best purchase I've made for working on scooters. That and the stator bell pullers and the starter nut socket. When my buddies come around wanting me to work on their scooters I tell them... Ok dude, the deal is you buy me a tool... =) The next buddies buying me 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets... good ones... like 40 and 80 bucks a piece..  ... I just tear up the cheap ones. |
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Hi Im Back
by: urbanmadness - Apr 19, 2013 1:39:25 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 1:39:25 GMT -5
Welcome back
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 1:35:15 GMT -5
The weak part in the Starter Clutch are the springs, I mean they look like they came out of a PEN. Did you put the Washer on correctly, the washer is flat on one side that goes against the Thrust Bearing, then the NUT the BEVEL SIDE GOES OUT. Alleyoop I don't remember a thrust washer. This is a 250 (honda helix clone) with the clutch bolted to the stator bell. I bought the entire clutch assembly. Like I said, someone has been in this thing, and I did put it back together exactly like it came apart but that doesn't mean some parts were missing from the previous hack/mechanic. And this was suppose to be a quick CV clutch job.... ughhh... I changed the CV clutch (glazed really bad), and intake manifold, cleaned the carb and replaced the jets and all the vac lines. Just trying to get it to run right... then it took out a starter clutch, just as I was setting the idle speed. almost forgot, replaced the font wheel bearings too (they were horrible)... all this on a 900 mile bike. It sat for a few months and before my buddy bought it. It's been a real basket case. It's a Znen roar, and it's been the biggest piece of crap I've ever run across. It's pretty but that's about all I can say about it. I hope I can salvage the new starter clutch. What would cause one to kick back that hard, besides valve timing or ignition timing? Ignition timing should be right on, so maybe we have a valve timing problem? I can't see that on a newer bike that hasn't been pulled apart that deep, but, again, I don't know what the previous owner had done to it and I can't see the factory off on valve timing, but I guess it could happen. Would a carb problem cause kick back? They all kick back from time to time, but this was pretty epic. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2013 0:44:39 GMT -5
Hey guys,
I'm working on a 250cc honda helix clone, and the problem it had/has is the starter clutch isn't working, it free wheels. So, I replaced the dang clutch, and the started the bike, it died and kicked back, and now the new clutch is freewheeling. Are the clutches weak on the 250's?
This bike has 900 miles on it... It probably pounded the springs when it kicked back and if I loosen the clutch, I can probably get them to reset, and I don't think this is the first time this bike has had starter clutch problems because, the hex head cap screws that hold the clutch to the stator are in pretty bad shape (the heads are almost stripped out and they were really tight).... is there a torque spec for these allan heads? Do they need to be tight but not crazy tight?
I'm really hating this bike right now.
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youtube
by: urbanmadness - Apr 2, 2013 9:33:05 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Apr 2, 2013 9:33:05 GMT -5
it's a valid video... if I past the url in the browser, it works... It might be just this video tho... go figure.
I will try it again with a different video. Proboards keeps injecting a smiley... I'm wondering if the parser is sloppy and I have the right character combo so it injects a smiley instead of the video? who knows. I'll try it with a different video.
I have posted vids before so it is a real mystery.
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youtube
by: urbanmadness - Mar 31, 2013 3:31:56 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Mar 31, 2013 3:31:56 GMT -5
Anyone else having issues posting youtube video's?
^
\_____ won't post using the youtube tag.
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 31, 2013 3:24:44 GMT -5
[replyingto=urbanmadness]urbanmadness[/replyingto]Here is the video i keep promising... |
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 31, 2013 3:00:47 GMT -5
You can remove the seat pan on many of the retro's to get to the carb, fuel pump and plug. You do end up removing the rear section and floor bard to do valve adjustments tho. Yea, it's a pain, but then so is a MotoBrovo hornet. I had to remove all the front fairings, and drop the tank to do a valve adjustment. Every scooter is an adventure...=)
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California
by: urbanmadness - Mar 31, 2013 2:44:25 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Mar 31, 2013 2:44:25 GMT -5
Sacramento, California...
Here, Here to designer fuel, C.A.R.B. and high registration fees
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 28, 2013 11:07:38 GMT -5
what if you just replumbed it so that the carb was before the bower... then go directly from the blower right into the head? The longer "runner" might create some hesitation tho.... Pressure box for the carb maybe? I don't know if they make a push thru carb for something like this... Can a stock one be retrofitted?
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 28, 2013 10:25:37 GMT -5
[replyingto=hypocycle]hypocycle[/replyingto]The only proble I can see, is I don't think the carb is gonna like it very much.
From what I've read, you don't want to blow thru a carb, you want to suck thru the carb. When you blow thru the carb, it pressurizes the float bowl, cuasing all sorts of mis-behaving. Fuel injection wouldn't care.. Carbs are black magic and voodo... =) (and I'm learning to be a witch doctor)
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 18, 2013 12:16:43 GMT -5
My first guess would be you dropped a valve. I just had one come into the shop that did that. new head, piston and barrel, rings... split the case to clean out all the piston shrapnal. It had a 1" hole in the piston. The good news is it's all back and running and the customer is very happy.... If you didn't put a hole in the piston, it will be really stright forward. Make sure you don't over tighten the head/case studs... they only need 26ft lbs.... and if you snap one... then things get ugly quick. Take your time, note how it comes apart and take pictures if needed. When removing connectors and lines, pieces of masking tape and a sharpie come in handy. Just number them... when putting it back together, or before putting it back together... watch a few youtube vids. Things like the timing tensioner are easy explained via video but harder to explain in a forum. |
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