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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 29, 2013 18:10:48 GMT -5
YEah yeah, I should of told him-- Valve adjustment..... I saw, it had been sitting.... I think sitting is the number one enemy on these scooters....
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 29, 2013 15:58:01 GMT -5
I've got a huskey set and a Stanley fat max set. The ratches in both are Junk! On the fat max, I've worn off the laser etch on the sockets (8mm and 10mm 1/4 drive)...
I've had one of the ratchets replaced under warrenty on the Huskey set but I can't seem to find a place to exchange the two fat max ratchets. The huskey ratches just are garbage... Low tooth count, etc. The ratchets in the fat max look like the same but seem to have a higher tooth count.
I'm probably just gonna go get some decent one's from Grainger. Like a set of Proto ratchets. Wish they would fit in the Fatmax case tho...
My impact wrench is a 120volt harbor frieght one and that thing has really surprised me... It's actually half way decent. So is my heat gun. My volt meter is a seventies era realistic... Awesome meter..... My scale, harbor frieght.... impact sockets... also harbor frieght (and actually pretty decent considering the price) the crowning jewl in my collection is my tool box. Top box and bottom box are both craftsman pro series with ball bearing slides.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 29, 2013 14:25:54 GMT -5
couple of things come to mind... I'd start by tearing the carb down and cleaning it, make sure the jets and all the passages are nice and clear then set the a/f mixture. Make sure the enricher is working correctly and then take a good long look at the intake manifold for cracks and holes, they are very cheap (10.00 bucks) I'd have half a mind to just replace the intake manifold so you know you don't have a vacuume leak there. There is also an intake manifold isolater gasket that gives problems, change that as well (like 3.00 bucks). That's where I'd start. While you are at it, replace all the fuel lines, fuel filter and make sure what comes out of that line is nice and clean. Scoots don't like dirty or old fuel. If it still runs poorly, do all the vacuum lines as well. Between fuel lines and vacuum lines, it's like 10 bucks of tubing from an autoparts store. The spray type carb cleaner can be had for like 4 bucks a can (get 2)... IF you don't feel confident with tearing apart the carb to clean it, a repalcement should be around 40 bucks, but honestly, cleaning these carbs are very easy. Just lay out a nice white piece of paper or I use one of those aluminum turkey roating pans you get a supermarket as a work space as it will help you see all the little parts.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 29, 2013 14:01:59 GMT -5
I'd say check the filter, and that it is installed in the correct orintation. Are you sure you have fuel in the float bowl when it dies?
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 29, 2013 13:54:37 GMT -5
Are you sure you are not comming up on compression for the rough spot?... try taking the spark plug out and see if it turns freely..... comming up on compression would be once every two revolutions of the crank shaft.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 29, 2013 13:20:08 GMT -5
Ok thanks, I'll split the case and I'll try just snugging them down. I do have them quite tight now. I was more concerned getting them tightened evenly and the old one was on very tight.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 28, 2013 2:40:00 GMT -5
some of our group out on a shake down ride for the motobrovo super hornet
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 28, 2013 1:15:01 GMT -5
Me riding the Motobrovo hornet I rebuilt
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 28, 2013 1:12:29 GMT -5
my scooter Attachments:
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 28, 2013 0:23:56 GMT -5
Well, got the bike running half way decent now. It does have a little bogging when accelerating off of idle. Just need to do a little more fine tuning on the carb. It's  percent there. I do have an exhaust leak that will need to be addressed next. But of course, on the test drive... It died and the starter clutch decided to freewheel. I'm thinking it's defective. It's got less then 30 starts on it. I had to walk this bike home about three blocks. I was not a happy camper. So tomorrow, I get to drain the coolent, the oil and pull the stator cover off the bike again and see what's up. I bought the clutch from Scrappy dawg so I'm hoping they will exchange it. In the mean time, is there torque specs for the starter clutch to stator bell bolts? Thanks, Ray |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 25, 2013 14:12:07 GMT -5
really nice explination
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 25, 2013 12:12:28 GMT -5
Has anyone thought about having one chromed at a plating shop?
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 25, 2013 12:06:59 GMT -5
Both of my scooter have the 115mm teflon lined Hoca variators and if it's an experiment, some baselines would be nice. It's the perfect bike for it too. 150cc Touring scoot... Lots of wieght, built like a tank and very easy to work on. =) It's even nice to ride, if not just a little on the slow side... It's about 100 plus lbs more then my vintage. Both bikes are running 12g rollers (I think) The new stock variator I have on the shelf, has 13g rollers. I'm not sure of the diminsions of any of the rollers... Looks like a great excuse to buy a digital caliper =)
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 25, 2013 11:18:06 GMT -5
Ok, I've pretty much figured out the problem with it hammering the starter clutch but the starter clutch is still not relieable. I actually got this bike to idle last night... huge but it means I have some work ahead of me. The idle mixture is too rich. I found it while trouble shooting everything. I bypassed all the emmisions, and ran a line to the fuel pump, and de acel valve on the carb and it was still running horible. When I pulled the vacuume line when running, with the port open, it actually started to idle smooth. Plug the port with my finger.... and it's starts to stumble and die. So I'm thinking idle mixture. Of course the screw is under the carb and has a nice brass plug covering it. So tonight, I'm putting stock jets back in the carb (it has the stock pilot jet already) drilling out the plug, and then I'm gonna adjust the a/f mixture.
So now the next problem. The new starter clutch is still a little wonkey (technical term)... It works most of the time, then it will freewheel. When it freewheels, if I tap the varaitor with a hammer, it will start working again. And no, I don't like tapping a variator with a hammer to get things to work. So, this is a question for Alleyopp, I'm thinking that maybe one of the bolts that holds the starter clutch to the stator bell is too tight? All of them too tight or not tight enough?
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 25, 2013 11:07:26 GMT -5
makes sense to me. I unfortantly don't have enough specs on my bike when I was running a stock variator. Maybe after I get my other one running right, I'll put the stock variator back in it, and get some figures for a base line, then try your idea. My vintage is too much of a pain to remove the cvt cover. The shankey 150de is alot easier to remove the cvt cover on so it will make a great test bike for this (gotta split the case and see what's going on with the starter in it)
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percent there. I do have an exhaust leak that will need to be addressed next. But of course, on the test drive... It died and the starter clutch decided to freewheel. I'm thinking it's defective. It's got less then 30 starts on it. I had to walk this bike home about three blocks. I was not a happy camper. So tomorrow, I get to drain the coolent, the oil and pull the stator cover off the bike again and see what's up. I bought the clutch from Scrappy dawg so I'm hoping they will exchange it. In the mean time, is there torque specs for the starter clutch to stator bell bolts?