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Post by ital on May 8, 2015 16:06:38 GMT -5
Well my scoot just made me a liar today. Last time inchcked the temps it was around 50 degrees out . all last summer my temps never got any higher then around 212 degrees " except when I had the shroud issue " . After hitting the deer in had to buy a new fan cover , but they sent me a b case cover !! . I had to cut it up so that it fit right. The temps seemed OK when it was around 50 degrees , but today it was 91 degrees and my scoot was close to 300 degrees " oil temp " !! So there must be something with this cover that is not letting the engine cool right. I guess I'll have to order a new cover sooner then I thought. Stick with the stock fan cover if you had good results. How do you measure your temps? I could not find anything good that seemed worth to try. unfortunately I do not know what best oil temps are but I would think that anything below 300 is fine since my high performance car runs at around 250 with an oil cooler |
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Post by ital on May 8, 2015 14:49:50 GMT -5
I would try using a bigger main Jet. Go two sizes up and see if it resolve the issue. Just give it a try you got nothing to lose but time :-) I just tried a bigger main jet, it still has the bogging when cracking open the throttle and now 1/4 to 1/2 still sputters. When I'm cruising at half throttle and then suddenly go WOT, the engine bogs for 1 sec and then immediately picks up well. I also notice sometimes when I start the bike, I get some white smoke coming out. I just finished breaking in this new engine, does the white smoke indicate richness of fuel mixture? I hope I didn't already ruin the oil seal rings on the piston so it got worse when using a bigger jet? does the bogging go away when you cover the air filter? I would seriously doubt you ruin the oil seal rings, the smoke is probably un-burned fuel. You need advise from one of the experts like the buddies alleyoop and geh3333  |
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Post by ital on May 6, 2015 10:01:15 GMT -5
I would try using a bigger main Jet. Go two sizes up and see if it resolve the issue. Just give it a try you got nothing to lose but time :-)
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Post by ital on May 6, 2015 9:58:15 GMT -5
If you have a DC CDI, i would go with the CASOLI CDI for the 150, it is good quality and worked well for me. Could have added a bit of performance but really not noticeable, however starts and engine seems to run a bit smoother.
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Post by ital on May 4, 2015 12:39:41 GMT -5
15:38 sounds like a safe bet to me, but it would be nice to hear from someone who has done this set up.
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Post by ital on May 4, 2015 10:00:52 GMT -5
I recently upgraded to a 180cc big bore kit for my GY6 ruckus and I am noticing the carb is constantly overfilled, which is evident by the excessive fuel pouring out as soon as I loosen the screws to the carb bowl and the fact the overfill tube is always full of gas. The scooter will randomly cut out when I am cruising mid-throttle. I am running an OKO 30mm D-slide carb, which is brand new, and I made sure the needle and seat are working properly. I currently have a round Mikuni DF52-21-D dual output 35L/hr pump installed, with both fuel outlets T'd to a single hose that runs to my carb. Does the stronger vacuum pressure at the intake manifold of my 180cc engine increases the fuel pressure or flow rate the vacuum pump operates at? The fuel delivery setup I have now is the same setup I used with my 150cc and I never ran into flooding or overfueling the carb. In fact, I had to use the Mikuni dual output setup because the rectangular DF-44 single output Mikuni pump wouldn't be able to provide enough fuel during WOT sessions. I would actually run the carb bowl dry only after a few minutes of WOT. Once i switched to the Mikuni dual outlet pump, I would be able to WOT all day and not starve the carb of fuel. Now it seems with the 180cc build, it's the opposite problem of overfueling. The first thing i tried was installing a vacuum restrictor (basically a hose coupler with a small hole restrictor inside) inline between the pump and the vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. I thought by restricting the vacuum, it would lower the pressure or flow rate of the pump. Turned out it didn't change anything. Carb was still getting overfilled just the same. Again, i verified the needle and seat are working properly. One friend recommended I switch my vacuum line to a smaller diameter line, but seeing how the vacuum restrictor didn't make a difference, I don't see how changing to a smaller diameter vacuum line would help either. Would switching back to the single output 14L/hr Mikuni pump fix this issue? did you resolve the issue? |
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Post by ital on May 3, 2015 20:23:32 GMT -5
 Looks like we have similar scoots. I installed this Tach about a year ago. Works great! we do indeed. What do you have? mine is a Puma Valentine 150cc soon to be 171 :-) |
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Post by ital on May 1, 2015 12:40:06 GMT -5
just downloaded speedview. i'll let you know how I make out with it. I might ride tomorrow.
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Post by ital on May 1, 2015 12:08:41 GMT -5
well what is the definition of small incline? lol. We have some very steep hills in CT where I can hit 80 MPH in a full nija tuck, but i did it only once as I was racing my b-law and did not even notice until I saw his exhaust blow black smoke and I stopped and looked at me speed... as I wont be doing that again... hahaha small incline to me is one that is very noticeable by eye I guess I could do a GPS run, but to be honest I do not know how to secure it and I am afraid it will fall off. I did do a GPS run once just to see how off my speedometer was and I kept the GPS next to my feet where it was repaired by winds. That is why I know my speedo is not too much off. Thanks for the info on the sliders... I hope I do not have the same results as you as that would suck. How did you know they flipped what were the symptoms? You could pocket the gps or use your phone and look at the max speed reached during trip when you come to a safe stop. if you use an app, can you recommend one? I thought that phone gps were not accurate. |
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Post by ital on May 1, 2015 9:23:02 GMT -5
I am thinking about upgrading to the NCY 61 MM kit as well. My research seems to indicate the best gears would be NCY GEAR SET GY6 16\38
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Post by ital on May 1, 2015 8:45:24 GMT -5
Wow , id go with a 125 main and I'd also drop the pilot some also. Just went for another ride today and I continued using the 135 MJ. The bogging at WOT from idle is still there, but when I pulled the plug today and checked, the insulator and electrode tip are a nice chocalatey brown. But the threads near the insulator is still black. Does the carbon build up on the threads mean the pilot jet is too big? To me that sounds like you have too small of a main jet. When I installed the uni filter I had the same issue, it would bog on WOT throttle and gain speed if I did not accelerate as much. I went from a 108 main jet to a 130 main jet with uni filter only. I think you are running lean. I am on stock carburetor 24 mm so not sure what to advise you on jet size. Good luck!! |
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Post by ital on May 1, 2015 8:39:47 GMT -5
well what is the definition of small incline? lol. We have some very steep hills in CT where I can hit 80 MPH in a full nija tuck, but i did it only once as I was racing my b-law and did not even notice until I saw his exhaust blow black smoke and I stopped and looked at me speed... as I wont be doing that again... hahaha
small incline to me is one that is very noticeable by eye
I guess I could do a GPS run, but to be honest I do not know how to secure it and I am afraid it will fall off. I did do a GPS run once just to see how off my speedometer was and I kept the GPS next to my feet where it was repaired by winds. That is why I know my speedo is not too much off.
Thanks for the info on the sliders... I hope I do not have the same results as you as that would suck. How did you know they flipped what were the symptoms?
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Post by ital on Apr 30, 2015 23:33:07 GMT -5
geh3333 urbanmadness dmartin95Rhode the scoot to work today and I am not sure if I can go a bit lighter on the rollers. I really wanted to. To me it does not sound like the scooter is screaming but the tachometer seems to indicate otherwise. I do notice that my idle goes up after 30 minutes of riding it seems to idle around 2200 rpm, if I lower the idle it would be fine but then on start up it give me problems. On straights I am not really going over 7400 RPM, occasionally I was hitting 7700 RPM on some down hills. I am on 12 Grams rollers now, wanted to put on 11 Grams DR pulley sliders is that advisable? If it is 500 RPM increase per gram, that would put me at about 7200 RPM on take off and hill climbing and 7700 RPM on flats and 8200 RPM on slight down hills. Does that sound dangerous for my engine? My scoot is a Znen so supposedly should have better internals then a tatao.... Thank you What speeds were you reaching? My speedometer goes from 55 to 60 mph on flats. Slight down hills 70mph, what was interesting rpms were not climbing much they seemed to peak around 7700 rpm but speeds kept climbing. My speedometer seems to be as accurate as any car still off for sure but I do not think it is off more then 3mph |
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Post by ital on Apr 30, 2015 16:58:50 GMT -5
I went ahead an ordered 11G DR Pulley sliders... they will take 2 weeks to get here from Taiwan. My local shop did not have them, I do not mind paying a couple of dollars more to help the local shop but in this case was a lot more because of his shipping cost.
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Post by ital on Apr 30, 2015 16:51:22 GMT -5
I had bogging that would eventually go away after running for 30 minutes, but eventually it kept getting worse. I was able to fix it by doing a valve adjustment.
do you have a uni air filter installed as well?
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