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Post by xyshannen on Oct 30, 2014 18:27:54 GMT -5
I wouldn't go over a 60mm where I live. In the summer temps reach the triple digits and can be over 120 or higher a foot off the ground.
I advised the OP, like just about everything I've read, not to go over that large to be on the safe side. He could be riding in Death Valley for all we know.
Alley, thanks for clearing up the 1P thing. Every 60mm kit I've seen says it won't fit the 1p157qmj. I just assumed it has something to do with the cylinder bore being smaller.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 30, 2014 18:19:17 GMT -5
Looks pretty sweet. Would be nice to have a set for just about anything you could run into.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 30, 2014 16:31:23 GMT -5
Pretty sure it travels up to the head through a hole in your cylinder jug. Then back down the cam chain valley.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 30, 2014 16:29:01 GMT -5
Does it feel like a wobble or is it actually pulsing like it wants to change speed up and down real fast? The first could be an out of balanced tire the second could be a bad clutch or some other issues with the motor, like a CDI going out.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 30, 2014 8:46:24 GMT -5
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 30, 2014 0:31:51 GMT -5
The cam, no matter the size, had no effect on compression. Yes I had to grind out the intake butterfly cut on the piston. People are often afraid to do this sort of thing, but if you think about it, it's no big deal. You only have to remove a little bit and it should have no effect on how the engine runs. You just put some white grease on your valves and assymble your motor. Turn it over by hand, then pull it apart and check the piston. There will be a bit of the grease on your piston showing you where to grind.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 29, 2014 23:53:37 GMT -5
Alright guys and gals, I have a $500 budget for getting the most HP/tq out of a 150cc g6. Current setup is a stock gy6 engine. Cvt has a larger variator and drive face, hoca clutch and torque sleeve. I have clutch springs already and a yellow contra spring. What engine, intake, and exhaust parts should I get? Engine code 1p57qmj, dual shock rear drum brakes. Since you have a 1P157QMJ You are stuck with a 58.5 BBK Unless you want to bore your engine case to accommodate a larger piston. Now they do sell bolt on kits that include a bored out engine case for around $350. The problem with your budget is that there is only so much you can do to the gy6 for under $500 unless you are prepared to spend more than that. I mean if you just want to spend 500 and no more, ever, then a 58.5 BBK with a high flow head, a performance CDI with a hot ignition coil, and a high flow performance exhaust is about it. Add a uni filter setup and a 26mm carb and intake and your about done. Once you go larger than a 58.5 BBK you have to put an oil cooler on. The cheap ones only hook to your engine's drain plugs and don't really circulate crap. So now you have to look at one that taps into your engine case and hooks to your oil pump. Tiada sells a kit like this that comes with the tapped part of your case for another $350. You could go cheap on the exhaust with an ebay kit and possibly look at a new cam with higher lift and duration. However, you will probably want to put a better exhaust on eventually. I did this and already am not happy with my exhaust. It has less than 500 miles on it an is already turning yellow. If you do go with a cheap kit, be prepared to have to do some "modification" to the exhaust to get it to fit. Also, do not put in a new cam unless you also replace the rocker assembly.Rockers wear to a cam like jean to a fat girl. If you put on a new cam the old rockers might wipe out your lobes. |
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 29, 2014 16:49:04 GMT -5
Your cam choice really depends on what you are trying to achieve. I chose the A11 because according to the chart it has one of the highest amounts of torque mixed with the highest amount of HP. It's even higher than the A9. But it tops out at 8k RPMS where the A9 tops out at 8500. Now if I was interested in top end speed I would choose the A9. But having said that my setup still hits 60 MPH at about 7200 rpms, so I still, even at that speed, have more power to go. wildswede.se/Baotian/Cam_horsepower2.jpgedit: Further thought.. Since I'm not too concerned with taking this scoot over 50 MPH, I really want to try the A8. It should have plenty of pull from 0-45 and for me that's what I'm really looking for. Wile you have your head off, might as well look into a BBK..I mean why not, with the head off you've don'e  % of the work already. I have the 58.5 BBK from scrappy and have no complaints. The build quality is good, not any casting ruminants that I could find. rcq92130 has the 60mm kit that I want tho. www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-GY6-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-TAIWAN-60MM-CYLINDER-KIT-CYLINDER-HEAD-CAMSHAFT-/181564749082?vxp=mtr The head that comes with this kit has larger valves than mine and if mine were not port and polished, should be a better performer. The only bad things I've heard about the ebay seller is that he pisses other vendors off because he takes name brand stuff and has it copied in Taiwan. But the killer is that other vendors charge more for anything made in Taiwan. Take my head from Scrappy for instance, it's made in Taiwan. The only reason I went with the scrappy kit is because I wanted a really good head. So I ordered their $150 big port head that is hand ported, only to get a run of the mill stock head. When I contacted them about it I discovered that they no longer can provide the big port head (that is to this day still for sale on their site) So they had to send me their $100 performance head and had me mail back the stock head. Wile they were polite about the whole thing, it still left a bad taste in my mouth. I find it pretty shady to be selling one thing and then try to pawn off stock equipment. Had I no clue about what I was looking at I would have installed the stock head and never been the wiser. I'm still contemplating getting the ebay kit I linked you to and just shelving the scrappy kit. |
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 29, 2014 16:43:30 GMT -5
scooter No doubt there are other softer leathers.. The leather I used for my seat is 12 ounce (leather thickness is measured in ounces) saddle leather.. I wanted that saddle look, and I wanted it to last. That seat will still be around long after I'm gone. I make bags out of some really nice 5-6 ounce oil tanned leather, that would be perfect for a seat covering. It's thick enough to be durable, and still thin enough that padding under it would be comfortable. It's being oil tanned also makes it resistant to water.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 29, 2014 12:27:05 GMT -5
Perhaps you could send Shannen your seat, along with one of these pads, and he could fix you up. It's funny this topic has come up cause I'm begging to regret my choice of leather on my seat. It's so thick that it negates a lot of the original padding in my seat. It's more like a saddle than a comfy seat. I can ride for about an hour before my butt starts to feel some pain. Putting any of these squishy seat pads under the leather would be a waist. Wile the covers they have might look a lil silly I think they could be dressed up. I'm thinking about eventually making a cover for a cover that I can put on during long rides. Using a sheep skin like this. .aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/9066-.aspx This hide would look right at home on my vintage style scooter, especially with all the leather work I've already done. There are other hides like this one that might look better on a more modern looking scoot. www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather/hair-on-hides/9605-00.aspxAs long as you make a decent strap that wraps around the bottom of the seat, your weight on the seat should keep it from falling off. |
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 28, 2014 23:05:27 GMT -5
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 28, 2014 14:55:52 GMT -5
Usually the piston is marked with (IN) to indicate intake. And usually on most pistons I've seen the intake butterfly cut is significantly larger than the exhaust cut. So looking at the pic you had it backwards. You can see the cut in the piston with the arrow pointing at it is smaller so that is your exhaust side.
Curious...before you installed the motor, did you try to turn it over by hand without the spark plug in to check your valve clearance? Cause your intake valve should have been smacking the crap out of your piston.. That's how I found out my cam was causing my intake valve to hit my piston. On that stroke it wouldn't turn over.. so I had to use a dremmel tool to remove some material from the intake butterfly cut.
Do me a favor..before you install this kit, take a pair of calipers to that piston and get me a measurement. I'm curious if this piston is actually 60mm and not 58.5. I still might buy this kit if it really is a 60mm. 1.5mm doesn't sound like a lot but it's something like 7 extra CCs, and that is a pretty big difference.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 28, 2014 8:52:47 GMT -5
That's why wile it's on the stand, you have to sit there and play with the throttle. You don't want to just set it at 3K and call it a day. I even would idle it down from time to time.
For what it's worth, as you know, I buggered my oil rings wile installing my piston the first time round. Those dang oil rings are flimsy as all get out and like to pop out of that almost to small oil ring groove one the piston.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 27, 2014 19:40:12 GMT -5
rcq92130 Just an FYI, maybe there is an old mechanic trick I don't know about, to tell if your rings are gone or not, but if you pull the jug off of your piston, scrap the rings. They will never seat properly again. Good thing these things are relatively cheap. For your break in, a trick I learned wile breaking mine in is to do like I posted earlier. Put your scoot up on it's center stand, point a fan at your cooling fan, and adjust the idle to 3k RPMS, let it run for about an hour wile bliping the throttle every so often. Every time the rings seat better your RPMS will go up and you will have to readjust the throttle screw. Once your done, you should be broken in enough to drive it and not have to baby it. Just avoid running it WOT for long stretches. I did mine like this and it worked freakin awesome.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 27, 2014 13:26:01 GMT -5
Synthetic in our motors isn't a good idea. From what I understand the heat of an air cooled engine breaks synthetic oil down.
Ya I hope your reading is low because of the way you had to test it. A stock motor should read around 150, Ours should be higher. I haven't tested mine yet because my gauge is MIA, so I have to wait until I can order a new one.
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% of the work already. I have the 58.5 BBK from scrappy and have no complaints. The build quality is good, not any casting ruminants that I could find. rcq92130
