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Post by xyshannen on Jan 30, 2015 17:23:02 GMT -5
Glad you're ok! Same thing happend to me but it was leaves instead of rain and it was an electric bike instead of a scooter. I wasn't so lucky. After I got done sliding about 30 ft I stood up and thought I was ok.. Then I noticed my left shoulder was about 2 inches lower than it should be and I couldn't move my left arm. Turns out I shattered my shoulder into a dozen or so pieces and split my humerus into two pieces lengthwise from my shoulder to my elbow. Docs tried to fix me as much as they could, but even with more than 12 pins and a titanium rod in my arm running from my shoulder to my elbow, my left arm is completely useless. Can't pick it up more than an inch on it's own power, and I live in constant pain. Whenever I get around to it I have to go in and have the whole shebang replaced with an artificial shoulder and humerus. Unlike Phenix, Florida gets a ton of rain. Wile I try to avoid riding in the rain, riding on wet streets is a must. So when I bought new tires I opted for a set of tires that have actual treads instead of the typical slick with grooves cut in it. These are my tires.  Even though they are a lil harder than your typical scooter tire because they are rated for speeds up to 95mph, they grip way better in dry and wet conditions vs my old tires. |
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 30, 2015 13:11:09 GMT -5
At speeds under 50 mph most won't notice much wobble from a small unbalanced tire. But, it's still best to balance them if possible. A small wobble on a new tire will increase over time and will usually cause the tire to become out of round thus shortening the life of the tire.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 30, 2015 12:36:24 GMT -5
While the temptation is to take the stand off it is best practice to see how close you are to the limits of the tires first as most will really need to learn correct cornering technique. Too many are ready to blame the bike as the problem when they wipe out when its in reality the nut holding onto the handlebars as the expression goes. Most here are riding 52 mph scooters and not 200 mph sport bikes so there is no need to lean them like a race bike going into a turn at 150+ mph. On the street unless you are exceeding the speed limit to a large degree, you should not be anywhere close to hitting the stand if you are riding correctly. Couldn't have said it better. i mean no disrespect but seriously I think you either need to work on how you ride or get a sport bike. Most 50cc-150cc scooters are not meant to be ridden like that. Even on the highway turns shouldn't be sharp enough that you have to lean into the turn enough to scrape. Not to mention you tires are something you really really need to consider. Most 10-13" tires are not designed to handle the forces put on the sidewall leaning like that puts on the tire. You also need to take into consideration the speed rating Of most small rim scooter tires, usually they are only rated up to 65 mph. Running a bias ply tire close to or at it's max speed rating for extended periods is just asking for trouble. Just an FYI, the do make 150-250cc scooter style motor/cvt sport bikes. You can find the 150c new for under 2k and the 250s new for under 3k. |
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 27, 2015 15:29:36 GMT -5
Before it started getting too cold, I started working with my American Bulldog Fraya, teaching her to ride on the floorboard of my scoot.  |
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 26, 2015 13:15:59 GMT -5
That's friggin sweet! With a 600cc that thing needs a bigger rear tire and bigger breaks.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 26, 2015 13:09:09 GMT -5
 what he ^ said.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 26, 2015 10:47:51 GMT -5
The problem I have with mine only occurs when my battery is low "which has again been often ". When I'm hooked up to a 10a charger or being jump from a car it turns over and starts with no problem , however one of the cdi's u mention will probably cut it out all together. I ordered the advancing one from John last night. I'll update the tread with results when I get it. I got my CDI from John and love it. With all I've done to my scoot it is very temperamental about the cold and doesn't like to start or run right when it's below 60 outside. With a stock CDI it seems like it's next to impossible to get it started without constantly having to restart it until it warms up. With Johns CDI it starts much easier and performance is great through the whole power band and I turn my scoot all the way up to 8k RPM all the time. I went through 2 DOA advanced CDI's before I found John. In fact in all my looking I never found any other vendor who sells a variable timing CDI. I wish I had found John before all that wasted time and money. John's price is very reasonable and I can attest that he not only pre-tests them but also stands by his product. My point to this post is that with the price and the person you are dealing with, there really isn't any reason not to buy this CDI or to go to any one else. |
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 25, 2015 10:28:37 GMT -5
With 10g rollers I'm set up for acceleration not top speed, but I still have no problem hitting a verified 60at about 75k rpms with plenty of throttle left. I'm 6'2 230 pounds.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 24, 2015 9:23:26 GMT -5
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 18, 2015 20:53:14 GMT -5
OK I can attest to the fragile nature or the oil rings. If one should slip out of the groove wile installing the piston (this seems to be very common as I had it happen over and over on 2 sets of rings) you can bend that ring really really easy. If that happens, the ring is no good. Buy another set and start over.
If you are just replacing rings and not the cylinder jug, you are just wasting your time and money. I say replace the jug, because the cost of deglazing and rehoning can be 2+ times the cost of a new jug.
Very few sellers will take parts back. There is usually no guarantee on "performance" parts. And I don't know of any seller that will take parts back once they have been installed.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 16, 2015 9:11:14 GMT -5
It's cool, but the price tag is laughable. Regardless of what he's done to it, it doesn't change the fact that it's a mini bike.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 16, 2015 9:06:32 GMT -5
There is a tao scooter rental company a couple of miles from my house. I don't know how well they are doing but they have been around for over a year.
Man, you sure ar jumping in head first lol. Good luck.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 14, 2015 22:11:25 GMT -5
Yeah,, Im pretty new to these GY6 motors,,I guess I need to build some more trust in them,,7K just seems like its a bit too high for cruising long periods of time to me on one..especially in the hot Summer time. I was cruising around 5-6K all Summer at 40-45 MPH with my stock setup.My heavy sliders get me into high gear pretty quick and I like the lower RPM,,still had plenty of power to pull me up the big hills even at 5-6K. My goal is to get the RPM down to around 5.5k and cruise at 50 with some pulling power left,,its gonna be hard because their is no replacement for displacement,hopefully the BBK will help me accomplish that..probably not..lol I will probably get another motor this Spring and set it up with lighter rollers/sliders so I can run 7-8K cruising 50 or so. Will put this motor to sleep on the bench for a while..and see how the higher RPM works out for longevity.I know my stock setup would start blowing oil out of the breather if I ran 6K for long periods of time...might have just been a little over full. For around town 50 mph @ 7k is perfect. I mean on surface streets that have a speed limit of 45mph how long do you get to run that speed consistently. Now for long trips or hwy riding you are right. I wouldn't want to run 7k for that long. I think what you are going to find is that with rollers heavy enough to be turning 5500 rpms at 50 mph, your acceleration isn't going to be all that great and it's really going to suck at 45+ mph. Alley has his setup to run like that but he also has a lot more cc than we do. Oh as for the NYC oil cooler, forget it. Taida is the only oil cooling setup that actually circulates oil through the cooler. I'm sure the NYC cooler is of outstanding quality, but that doesn't mean it really works. They hook to your motor the same way the cheap ebay coolers do. Taida's cooler has to have your crank case drilled and hooks in line with the oil pump. |
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 14, 2015 10:57:54 GMT -5
That's why I ran it for only an hour. Figure even at 5k, one hour is still less than 50 miles. The way I did it just gets them good and seated to give you a good start on breaking it in.. Also with now it being a higher RPM motor it will hit 7500 to 8k during normal operation with the CVT doing it's thing and whatnot. Even taking it easy it's impossible to keep it at 5k. With heavy rollers you can cruise at that rpm, but you are not in the cam's power band. Ideally you want the rollers to allow your typical cruising speed to be at 6k-6500. For m that's 35-40 mph. After my initial break in, I still took it easy for the next 100 or so miles. Only going over 50 mph or cruising at 7k + rpms for short periods.
I don't think it's so much as a controversy as it is just people have their own ways of doing it.
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 14, 2015 6:53:00 GMT -5
One thing I love about having an open cvt like I do is it's really easy to inspect and change my belts. Also having it open means less heat and longer lasting belts. I'v put about 1500 miles on this belt and it still looks and performs like new. That's pretty darn good considering with my weight and my mods my belt gets one heck of a workout.
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