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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 10, 2016 14:21:06 GMT -5
Sorry, but I almost forgot!
This the big "pop the question" weekend", George? Good luck, but I have no doubts what she will say. Good guys are hard to find. but best wishes!
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 9, 2016 0:21:26 GMT -5
Thanks, man! Love ya and hope you get all the blessings you have wished for this year, George. You and your whole family deserve every bit of it.
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 8, 2016 16:55:35 GMT -5
Nope. No snow.
In fact, it's 89 degrees right now with powder blue skies.
Lot of good it does me though. Rotator cuff surgery 4 days ago; arm in a sling for a month. Difficult to ride (and illegal, but who is counting that ...) with a sling on.
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 7, 2016 15:04:38 GMT -5
Yes, so as you have been told this is the remains of the cam stopper - which prevents the engine from rotating backwards. it somehow came loose, got between the cam and chain, and popped the chain off.
there are now several questions you need to answer for yourself:
1, chain. i'd guess there is a 75% chance your chain is OK - but that means a 25% chance it isn't and will fail. on an overhead cam, negative clearance engine like the gy6, if the chain breaks you are almost guaranteed to have either bent valves, a hole punched in the piston, or both. you also have the distinct chance of metal fragments in the oil that then cause extensive damage. on the other hand, replacing the chain is a total engine overhaul - removing the jug, separating the halves of the crankcase and taking the crankshaft out just to put a new chain on. so, basically a total engine overhaul. so you need to weigh in your own mind these 2 and come to a decision.
2. cam follower: of course, it should not have come loose. usually the 2 cam dowels go through holes in the follower, did both dowels come loose? you may want to get a new head just to be sure since they are so cheap.
3. oil at head gasket: the oil leak may simply be from a dry valve cover gasket or loose bolts. most likely the oil then dripped down, some staying at the small lip of the head gasket and appearing to have come from that location. a good cleaning would resolve this. but maybe (long shot, but possible) the cam follower being tossed around somehow caused a leak at the head gasket (higher likelihood it might have scratched the cylinder below the piston - did it smoke at the end?). so, best to keep a close eye on this.
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 5, 2016 20:22:33 GMT -5
again, that would NOT cause the chain to fall off.
I suggest you look for another cause.
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 3, 2016 17:56:22 GMT -5
Not true, Steve.
If the chain came off or failed, the cam would stop rotating. The valves would then stop IN THE POSITION THEY WERE WHEN THE CHAIN FAILED.
Open valves would remain open until the piston came back up. Then, when the piston smacked the valve, either a hole would be punched in the piston or, more likely, the valve would be bent back out of contact.
In any case, the chain "coming off" is a very odd condition (other than, as you said, during a time, like doing a BBK, when you are messing with the thing). Falling off while simply riding indicates, to me, somehting else causing this. Maybe the cog teeth. Maybe the tensioner. But something!
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 2, 2016 14:45:03 GMT -5
A 150 may be designed completely different, but had the same problem.
After a lot of wasted time with a long screw driver and a coat hanger, finally gave up and removed the jug. It was then pretty easy. If doing this, make sure you do as follows so you don't have to deglaze the jug:
take off all the top end stuff
wiggle the jug till it's just free from the crankcase gasket (you will need both a new paper gasket there, and a new head gasket)
rotate the flywheel 'till the connecting rod is all the way up (should be TDC)
GENTLY press the piston down in the jug JUST SO YOU CAN GET TO THE GUDGEON PIN.
remove the circlip and slide out the gudgeon pin.
the piston is now no longer fixed to the rod, and the piston & jug will just lift away together. If you don't jostle the thing, so the piston remains more or less in the same position, you can then - when done - just put it together in reverse order. Since the piston isn't disturbed, no honing needed. Just put it all back together.
But maybe you will have better luck then I getting the chain back on w/o removing all that.
Seems very, very odd the chain was on and then came off. Something had to have caused this ... as Steve said, maybe the sprocket teeth, maybe something else. But it shouldn't just "come off". Incorrect valve clearance will not cause this. Is the tensioner working?
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 1, 2016 19:43:25 GMT -5
Page 8 for oil cooler placement
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 1, 2016 19:43:05 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 1, 2016 17:43:33 GMT -5
First, instead of going to an NCY cooler, why not get a better one at less cost? (Taida). Second, contact Dan Martin at DANSGARAGETALK.COM for actual expert info, rather than opinions from stupid run-of-the-mill people mike me? Finally, I put mine behind the front wheel, which I believe is the optimal location. Some attach it to the air intake - drawbacks are: (a) hotter air to the air cooling system since the air first passes thru the oil cooler which, believe it or not, throws off a lot of heat; (b) looks kind of funky.  Took the scoot to my muffler guy who, for $10, welded the bracket to the frame so the cooler will never come off unless it's unbolted from the bracket. Had to cut the plastic underpan a bit for the cooler too. Nice, neat unobtrusive ... oil never gets higher than 150 deg (I have a gauge on my dash). I have no idea why some of these pix come out rotated  degrees. In your mind rotate deg left so the cooler is facing to the left (which is toward the front fender) |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 10, 2016 17:48:01 GMT -5
On my way home from Pittsburgh right now , so it will be a little later . Gosh, George - I hope she is OK! No one promises us even 1 more day. Don't put off to tomorrow anything you should do today. Drive carefully. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 9, 2016 0:15:53 GMT -5
I've seen it pressed into the tadia engines, but I've seen then just tightened behind the variator and they go right into place. Its not like a bearing how they need pressed in. The crank shaft is beveled and the gear is beveled to fit right against it . Yes, George. I've never had any reason to mess around with that gear, but remember when Dan was building up my SuperEngine he had to heat/freeze the parts so they would more easily get pounded into position. Note what Murky just said, which may lend some evidence toward a starter clutch issue. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 8, 2016 21:01:35 GMT -5
I bought the top end rebuild kit off scrappy dogs This one --- right?  If so, looks like a standard OEM piston, not oversized. So, a standard starter motor should be fine. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 8, 2016 18:09:57 GMT -5
You are a manly man, George. Me ---- girly man, I guess!
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 8, 2016 15:23:43 GMT -5
The electric torque wrench JR & I are talking about (and many carry in their scooters) is electric - designed to remove lug nuts when changing the tire on a car. it BARELY cracks the nuts on my car ... and the torque setting on these is waaayyy below 100 ft-lbs.
I think this thing is ideal for what we use it for and almost impossible to do anything bad with. And ... it is the most handy thing since sliced bread.
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degrees. In your mind rotate 
