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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 15, 2015 13:56:57 GMT -5
No worries, I think this is a VERY neat project!!!!!! Just wondering if there was any relation to a different company.............. I see that I was mistaken in asking such questions, My apology... I can only assume asking for a build tally is out of the question also... Again My apology for getting two companies confused...... OK, here is what I feel comfortable saying; From my research, Martin's was (by far) the best supplier for the actual Taida hardware. Maybe that's because he is the official Distributor .. I can't say. Anyway, his prices are (from what i could find) impossible to match elsewhere. But here is what OTHERS are charging for the same build: 1. Basic kit (crankcase, jug, head, cam, etc.): $729 www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-190CC-SHORT-CASE-63MM-CLASS-B-BLOCK-COMPLETE-REBUILD-SET-GY6-A-01.htm2. Crankshaft: $170 www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-MODEL-3000-608mm-STROKER-CRANKSHAFT-CS-3000.htm?categoryId=-1NOTE: You must get the right crank for the piston size selected for the assembly to be properly balanced 3. Oil Cooler: $180 www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-GY6-OIL-COOLER-RADIATOR-ONLY-TAIDA-HIGH-OIL-COOLER-RADIATOR.htm?categoryId=-1and www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-GY6-OIL-COOLER-HOSE-AND-FITTINGS-ONLY-TAIDA-OIL-COOLER-HOSE-FITTINGS.htm?categoryId=-14. Misc: Starter clutch MUST be upgraded ... high flow oil pump also. You will need a high torque starter motor if you do not already have one. Transmission gearing will probably need to be changed. You probably have (but absolutely need) high flow intake/exhaust, and a large carb. I have a decent (Dr Pulley) variator, but will need to upgrade the clutch. Silly to not upgrade the seals and bearings. I already had a 12-pole stator, but Martin's is upgrading that to an 18-pole. That is just for the parts ---- not including any assembly cost. So this is in no way similar to a $250 FleaBay 150cc Gy6 ChinaEngine ... |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 14, 2015 23:03:03 GMT -5
Most anyone can purchase "off the shelf" parts and build an engine..... The real cost comes with installation and skill level, I do hope this becomes a reliable daily driver at a decent price..... PLEASE keep us updated as the final product, It should be a REALLY nice ride....... I meant no disrespect!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, none taken! I'm getting really anxious as he nears the end of the build! Can't wait! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 14, 2015 19:40:30 GMT -5
is the voltage fluctuating with the idle? John - he is saying the battery voltage is going down to 9v, 7v and even to 3v. Even if the engine completely died the voltage should not get anywhere near those values. I wonder if he is DIScharging, not charging, the battery (i.e., hooked up backwards0. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 14, 2015 19:27:46 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 13, 2015 22:41:59 GMT -5
They are building up the engine for me, if that was your question.
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 13, 2015 12:50:40 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 12, 2015 23:11:37 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 12, 2015 11:47:21 GMT -5
My old donor motor was delivered to MARTIN'S INSANELY FAST SCOOTERS in Michigan today. They received the Taida parts Wednesday.
On track for a new engine this next week!
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 9, 2015 20:46:01 GMT -5
63mm with a 3mm stroker.
I was discussing with him my plan to put a 250cc water cooled Kymco engine I found into the little scoot (weeeeeeeeee !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!), and Martin's SUPERFAST Scooters convinced me to go the Taida route. Will still need an oil cooler, but not all the water crap that is needed with the Kymco
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 9, 2015 18:00:30 GMT -5
Here is the scoot, minus it's gizzards, waiting for the new engine  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 9, 2015 11:41:20 GMT -5
EDIT July 28: Replacing Right Side Oil Seal
EDIT APR 27: Would appreciate advice about removing right side cover
EDIT April 18 (tax day!): Finally riding again !
EDIT 11: About Max RPM
EDIT 10: COMPARING VARIATORS - K&S vs DR. PEPPER
EDIT 9: Tuning the clutch
EDIT 8: Low Cost and simple Fuel/Air Mixture system shows exactly what your tuning is
EDIT 7 - First performance report
EDIT 6: Full NCY clutch added to the mix
EDIT 5: Started up with the first push of the start button ! Lots of tuning yet to do - the carb is tuned for a much smaller engine, and rejetting is a must. but she runs!
EDIT 4: Mounting the engine! Ain't it purdy!
Hope to get a test start done today, otherwise it will have to wait 'till Tuesday (personal reasons prevent moving forward unitl then).
EDIT 3: The engine arrived, but there are a number of things that yet need to be added. The pix at the end show the new stator (be SURE you check it out !!!!!!!!!!), flywheel and clutch.
EDIT 2 : The SuperEngine built by Martin's arrived. Here are a few pix. Isn't it PRETTY !!!!!!!!!
EDIT:
Martin's Lightspeed Scooters (aka, Martin's Scooters, LLC) has completed the build of their custom super engine for my retro scooter. Soon I'll be receiving it and figuring out how to get the scooter ready to handle the increase in power and torque.
Anyway, in this Tread you will find videos that Martin's did of each step of the build, from start to finish. They are perhaps the most informative videos showing how a GY6 engine goes together. Have any questions about how to do something? Just find the right video and it should explain.
And for the record - Martins was a true joy to work with; HIGHLY recommend!
The links are all right here, but in case anything happens to this Thread, they are all in this section of Martin's site:
www.dansgaragetalk.com/forum/24-technical-videos/
My little retro scooter is getting a facelift - kind of a ToolTime upgrade. Martin's is building a balanced / blueprinted Taida super engine that will drop in and look stock (except for the oil cooler) ... but be anything BUT stock. Parts from Taida arrive at Martin's today; engine should be done by next week. Will keep you posted.
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 12, 2015 13:24:30 GMT -5
be very careful!
that is one of those old suitcase nuclear explosive devices built by the soviet union during the cold war. not only are they very deadly - by now they are very unstable and can be set off even by a simple cell phone. you should call the fbi immediately.
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 11, 2015 21:34:42 GMT -5
Bingo. I use a 65/55 w H4 without a problem (but i only use it at night 'cause the high power is more drain on my OEM stator than I want - have a simple 64-chip LED for daytime riding). Check with GEH - he followed suit, but he has DUAL headlights. Until he gets his 11-pole stator installed he has only one of the bulbs hooked up - still WAY brighter than the crappy ChinaBulb. Suggest you go to Autozone (or any place) and get an H4 plug. Permanently wire it, and then you have a normal clip on / clip off socket for your H4. My scoot runs both bulbs at the same time for low beams AND high beams when I press the button for high beams to come on. What will happen when I press the scoots high beam button? Anything? Dunno how yours is wired. If you put an 11-pole in you don't need to worry about it. What I did was put in a little bank of illuminated switches. Have flashers on both the LED driving light and the low beam. With 4 switches i can control exactly as I want - low beam either steady or flashing; driving either steady of flashing. And - flip the high beam switch on and regardless of the rocker switches I instantly get steady high (which i use at night).  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 11, 2015 20:44:33 GMT -5
This is what i bought. m.ebay.com/itm/141693392435 I figure I can wire my scooters existing wires to the tabs on my new h4 35w 12v bulbs and expect them to work and not melt my housing. Does anyone see any problems with this? I know that they will fit in the existing holes with the metal clips no problem. Bingo. I use a 65/55 w H4 without a problem (but i only use it at night 'cause the high power is more drain on my OEM stator than I want - have a simple 64-chip LED for daytime riding). Check with GEH - he followed suit, but he has DUAL headlights. Until he gets his 11-pole stator installed he has only one of the bulbs hooked up - still WAY brighter than the crappy ChinaBulb. Suggest you go to Autozone (or any place) and get an H4 plug. Permanently wire it, and then you have a normal clip on / clip off socket for your H4. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 6, 2015 20:39:49 GMT -5
I spinned the back wheel and stopped it suddenly and there is a thud something inside the wheel I don't know where what could that be guys.... Thanks for all the help lately Jamo - as you can tell, there isn't enough info in your question for people to be able to help much. I went back and read again and tried to guess exactly what you were saying. Did you mean you spin the wheel, it spins, and then suddenly stops with a thud? If so, something is probably wrong in the gearbox and the only way to figure THAT out is to remove the cover to the gearbox and take a look. If you DO that - take pix and post them so we all have better info and can help more. Removing the gearbox cover is pretty simple - unless you have never done anything on your scoot like removing the CVT belt. Here is a video about doing MORE than just taking a look (actually changing gears); hope the part that is relevant to you helps: Again, just be careful - if you tear the paper gasket you will need a new one (cheap, but your scoot will be down until you get one) |
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