|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 6, 2015 20:34:22 GMT -5
Hope things are progressing. Some here are adverse to removing the kickstart, and I will not argue. However, if you decide to do that (as many have done), here is a simple video of how to: |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 6, 2015 16:43:06 GMT -5
I spinned the back wheel and stopped it suddenly and there is a thud something inside the wheel I don't know where what could that be guys.... Thanks for all the help lately That's why it is always better to have oil in the gearbox. Unfortunately. Better open it up and see what's wrong. For a 150: remove the CVT cover, belt, clutch. Remove the 6 or so 8mm (?) bolts that go around in a "C" shape. Remove the cover (trying to not tear the paper gasket). If any oil is still in there, have a drip pan to catch it. Check to see what is busted. Take photo and post here. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 5, 2015 13:10:14 GMT -5
That's not what the RR does. It maintains a constant voltage to CHARGE THE BATTERY. The RR tops voltage out at 14.5v; the battery, when fully charged, is at about 12.5v. It's the job of the battery to supply current for the needs of the vehicle.
There can be 3 problems that could be causing what you noticed (and I presume your headlight also dims):
1. The RR is pumping out far MORE than 14.5v, over charging the system. When the engine slows the voltage drops back to normal, and the dimming is the lights going down to normal. This is the bad scenario because it means you are gradually frying electrical components with too much voltage.
2. The battery is weak. When the engine rpm is up the RR supplies enough to keep everything running OK, but when the rpm goes down, and the stator puts out less (and thus the voltage out of the RR drops), the battery cannot keep up with demand and everything dims.
3. You are overly sensitive to normal fluctuations.
Most likely --- #2.
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 4, 2015 19:59:19 GMT -5
Of course you can't get a "Replacement Title" otr a Duplicate Title unless you are the owner of record on file with the LFE. So that will not do you much good.
I think the suggestions to call DMV are the best. Miuch might have some not-too-difficult process. be glad you are not in California (for LOTS of reasons).
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 4, 2015 7:24:53 GMT -5
Thanks for all the advice. Unfortunately as most of you know, with this model, it is not as easy as removing the bucket. The back of the bucket is under body panels, and cannot be removed without removing body panels. I am just terrified of breaking panels, and not really sure where to start when removing them. some close up pix would of course help |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 4, 2015 6:40:11 GMT -5
So I bought a 2011 gmw m1 with 5500 km or miles ( i dont know which ) and have recently installed a eBay Durham N carolina sellars Scorpion brand products. Here goes: 100cc bbk A9 Cam Round air filter 38mm Performance coil Orange CDI box 19mm Cvk carb knockoff without adjustable needle. #  and also have #  mainjets Installed # 38 pilot Heat wrapped exhuast manifold because engines plastic shrouds are melted a bit at the cylinder head and the heat wrap ebay product is cheaper than the $24 for new shrouds. Im just trying to move the hot exhaust gases outta my air filters area. ... and your question is ... ?? ps: regarding the melted shroud. Wrapping with heat tape will help further melting but avoids the issue. This should not have happened - and just might indicate the exhaust was WAAYY hotter than it normally would be (very lean perhaps). You have changed everything and so will have to tune, which will change the exhaust temp if that was the case. I'd just make sure I know what the problem was since very lean condition will destroy valves, etc. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 3, 2015 19:59:51 GMT -5
what state?
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 3, 2015 17:36:52 GMT -5
Be careful with the plastic clips, they brake with just a look, ask me how I know  Boy is THAT true! Every place 2 plastic pieces are joined with a screw, once you remove the screw, you will see the 2 pieces are still connected via a "tab and clip" plastic clip. It's really hard to get these to release w/o breaking the clip part. Fortunately, even with broken clips the pieces will still go together; the broken clip will not cause a problem that can be seen. but be as careful with them as you can; always best, of course, to have the clips intact. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 3, 2015 16:15:25 GMT -5
I need to do some trouble shooting and maintenance on a friends TaoTao CY50B retro style scoot, and am having trouble finding info on how to remove the body panels. I've scoured YouTube and can't find any videos to help me. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I need to get to the Carburetor and Fuel filter as well as possible checking the valve clearance, and replacing the spark plug. Should be just 4 bolts or so to remove the seat bucket - all easily accessible obnce you open the seat and empty the contents of the bucket. You still may want to take the body panels off ... but that's also not difficult and becomes a lot more obvious once the bucket is out. |
|
|
|
Exhaust
by: rcq92130 - Aug 2, 2015 12:44:35 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 2, 2015 12:44:35 GMT -5
Just to second what P-Guy said. I made the same mistake - bought a "performance" exhaust header. It looked nice. Chrome. Fat pipe. BUT --- only to find out when it arrived the first 6 inches was just the skinny, OEM diameter pipe that caused pretty much the same back pressure and restriction that the oem pipe caused. Couldn't tell except by looking into the pipe from the flange end. P-Guy posted some perfect pix explaining the problem in this thread: www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/81-150cc-stock-head-pipe-woes/No matter WHAT you do to your muffler you will not overcome the restriction caused by this teensy first 6 inches of exhaust header. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 1, 2015 18:56:56 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 1, 2015 18:30:22 GMT -5
Yeah, a lot of us with 150cc ChinaScoots have just taken the kickstart out. Seems almost impossible to get them working properly; not worth the effort.
Just charge the battery and forget that thing they laughingly call a kick-STARTER. The only thing it will start is your blood pressure.
NOTE:
Be gentle when charging. The spec is for 2 amps charging current; I think 4 amps is fine with these glorified D-call batteries. But most car chargers have MUCH higher charging rates, and that will severely decrease the lifespan of the battery
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 1, 2015 11:46:49 GMT -5
Hey guys new to the scoot game and wanting to know why it has an inline fuse by the battery Your battery (probably) has TWO wires coming off each terminal --- one big, fat one going to starter motor (via the solenoid) and a thin wire leading to the inline fuse. This wire powers all your accessories - lights, gauges, CDI, etc. So .... most of the wire harness s protected by this single inline fuse. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 1, 2015 0:23:02 GMT -5
Your video makes me think your case is a standard GY^ case - same short case I have, even down to the gearbox breather tube. I see you also gave the deep 6 to the kickstarter. I wonder if anyone has ever gotten those things to work properly!
A note: Careful of your brake cable. It's sitting right above the variator and is at risk of being chewed up. Zip tie it out of the way when you ahve the case cover off.
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 1, 2015 0:17:47 GMT -5
This is probably just a standard GY6 (if there really is such a thing... so many variations exist.)
You can pull the valve cover and measure the spacing between two adjacent cylinder studs to determine whether it's a B-case or not. An A-case GY6 (the most common) has 54mm stud spacing and can accommodate up to a 63mm piston, which limits them to 187cc (with a stroker crank.) A B-case has 57mm stud spacing and can accommodate a 67mm piston and be stroked up to 232cc.
If you have a normal GY6 150 then most probably yes. I have a 10" wheeled retro scoot (150cc) and have a 117mm Br Pepper variator.
That said - you should speak with GEH. I am not thrilled with the Dr Pulley variator; GEH has gone thru a bunch of different brands (run from KOSO) and has finally found one he thinks is superior.
|
|
and also have #
mainjets
-07-HONDA-ELITE-CH80-Air-Intake-Boot-s-/181811712900?hash=item2a54d29384&vxp=mtr