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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 31, 2015 20:30:22 GMT -5
That's twice today, Horace, you have gone off on an odd tangent with me. I have no skin in your game. Arguing with those trying to help kind of is a disincentive to help.
Alley is gone. JS (if you mean JerryScript) here and active. The other 2 not in the last 12 months (that I am aware of). Good luck.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 31, 2015 20:05:11 GMT -5
Unfortunately, if it's really been sitting for several years I fear simply 'cleaning" the carb will be, at best, stopgap. The diaphragm, for example, will soon tear. Fuel cutoff plunger for sure gone. The idle circuits in the carb will be pretty difficult to clean. You will need a rebuild kit (though I have no doubt you can get it 'running" ...)
If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner this can be done. Otherwise, save the cleaner and get a new carb. Many of us have old 24mm carbs from pre-BBK days that you can use instead. I don't know if that's too big for a 50cc or not, but I'd go that route before trying to fix the carb.
The oils should be changed, but only the brake fluid is likely to be really bad. I would for sure change out all the rubber hoses (gas and vacuum).
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 31, 2015 17:37:05 GMT -5
You link to a genuine honda product... A Rukus is by no means retro my friend...... Standard China part IMO made to wearout a bit quicker than OEM Japan parts. Just my humble opinion. Retro or not the same parts are used in many styles. I could use that as a rear shock for example....... Just sayn. A coil over shock is stiffer by design.....depending on the spring Not trying to start a debate just pointing out universal parts. China scoots are known to have a SOFT suspension to begin with. Yes, Horace. That is the entire point. The Chinese plastic "shock" is a piece of crap - but i found a substitute the correct size and performance to replace the china part with one that is far superior, solving the problem with the poor china design. It would not have been much of an upgrade if I simply substituted in the same China part.... |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 31, 2015 17:16:51 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 30, 2015 13:50:51 GMT -5
Stability issues  ?? Anything over 60 was BEGGING to die! Now ... no problem. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 29, 2015 23:26:02 GMT -5
If you own a retro scooter you obviously like the retro styling. It's fun. But it comes with a cost - pretty crappy design in some areas. The front suspension is probably the King of Crap in retro scooter design world. The underlying problem is the solid front stem (no fork tubes!). But the main culprit is the unbelievably crappy shock absorbers that are left to bear the brunt of front end handling .... and are about 1 million percent NOT up to the task. These front shocks were obviously the result of some federal government green energy design grant:   These Soros-funded contraptions provide sub-adequate shock absorption for maybe 1,000 miles, then go on permanent vacation and do nothing at all. At 60mph your retro scoot becomes either a flying machine or a death contraption. Fortunately, there is a simple cure! Someone here (sorry - can't remember who) said they knew of someone using a standard rear shock in place of the green energy joke. Well, I looked into it - unfortunately almost all rear scooter shocks are 13+ inches long, compared to the green energy jokes' length of 10-1/4 inches. A retro scoot can tolerate maybe a 1/2 inch difference with no problem --- but no way a 3 inch difference. Fortunately, after a LOT of looking around I found a perfect substitute:  They are within 1/4 inch of perfect length, both top and bottom fittings are good, and --- they actually absorb shocks !!!! Plus, they look a lot more manly on the scoot:  What a GREAT difference they make! I've had it up to 65mph with the wheels still on the ground - something the green energy jokes could NEVER handle. So what are these? Honda Rear Shock for the: nps50 ruckus, Metropolitan nch50, ZOOMER, Dio ZX, Giorno 2T, Elite S Price used on FleaBay: about $25 each |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 29, 2015 17:45:11 GMT -5
FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT FIX IT
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 29, 2015 11:47:13 GMT -5
Man that looks like a lot of work. I can see the bearing causing the clutch to lock but not the variator. I will try my luck with the new variator first. I also just change my gears recently and everything seemed find from what I could tell. thank you No, it's not that a problem in the back end would cause the variator to lock up. Just the opposite. The variator would continue to spin with the crankshaft ---- but if the back end locks up the belt will either continue to turn with the variator, and be torn up by the locked up rear end, or the belt would freeze with the back end and be torn up by the spinning variator. In your case, with all that rubber on the variator drive face, it kind of looks like the belt froze and was eaten up by the turning variator. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 29, 2015 0:03:02 GMT -5
Obviously the belt locked up.
Had that happen once with a new variator. I was using a different inner face whose ramp angles allowed the rollers to go too high (up AND OUT of the variator).
I'd first suspect the rear end and make sure it all rotates freely. If the bearings locked it would explain the belt failure. See also if you can detect any reason within the clutch assbly that might have led to a lock up condition. The heavy rubber deposits on the drive face indicate tghe belt suddenly went stationary while the driveshaft (and attached variator/drive face) continued to rotate.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 28, 2015 11:47:37 GMT -5
Hi All, my problem all started when I installed the HOCA Race variator, I installed a new one and I still having the issue. I am going to try ditching it and just ordered the NCY Teflon coated Variator This are the parts i replaced bout a week ago. so far I have: * Hoca race Variator with 12 grams rollers * NCY 1500 RPM Contra springs * NCY Gen 3 Clutch with red springs * Snow flake clutch bell * NCY aluminum drive face * NCY Secondary driver * Gates Premium belt 743 20 30 I was thinking about getting perhaps the blue contra spring but the belt broke even before that change. Also my belt is a very very tight fit. is that Normal and could that be contributing to the belt breaking? My buddys belt is not as tight. Thank you - Luigi Get a Kevlar belt. Well worth the extra price. The only problem is how to find one that's not a counterfeit. "Gates Premium" is just a standard Gates belt, and most likely a counterfeit since it seems most sellers are (knowingly or unknowingly) selling Chinese knockoffs ... Gates name and everything, but still knockoffs and low quality. There was a long discussion on this a few months back. Best bet - order online from Walmart for pickup at the store. Best price and pretty much assured to not get a knockoff. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 23:36:39 GMT -5
Hi All, Changed out the whole harness with a harness off of Ebay for $66. Bike started. Wanted to give this update so everyone could know that the ignition could test out perfect... and it could still spark related. That's what I figured out here. I'll start another thread with some questions I have on bringing the harnesses together. Thak you all! That's good to hear!!! Everyone here loves it when we get something back up and running. Every member knows the feeling of having something not running, then the feeling of accomplishment when the problem is fixed. Plus, you can easily say you know that trike's wiring from front to back. Keep us updated with anymore problems. Joey - that was a great congrats, but you left out the part about, "And don't forget to ride that thing down to San Diego so RCQ can play with it". I know it was an inadvertent mistake ... but geeze! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 23:17:05 GMT -5
Hi All, Changed out the whole harness with a harness off of Ebay for $66. Bike started. Wanted to give this update so everyone could know that the ignition could test out perfect... and it could still spark related. That's what I figured out here. I'll start another thread with some questions I have on bringing the harnesses together. Thak you all! How COOL! Now ride than thing down here to San Diego. I want to play with it! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 22:46:30 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 22:41:38 GMT -5
I will order the CDI and coil tomorrow(my pay day) and replace all vacuum lines and fuel lines, but I am by no means a mechanic, so the valve clearances will have to wait til i can get it driven to my buddy's house as he is a moderately competent small engine mechanic by hobby. He has promised to teach me the ins and outs of the engine, but he is only available on the weekends, and I have to come to him. I really want to thank you for all the info and time you have taken to try and help, it's great to know a community like this exists to help a novice like myself. As always I will keep you posted as to the progress. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 22:41:21 GMT -5
I will order the CDI and coil tomorrow(my pay day) and replace all vacuum lines and fuel lines, but I am by no means a mechanic, so the valve clearances will have to wait til i can get it driven to my buddy's house as he is a moderately competent small engine mechanic by hobby. He has promised to teach me the ins and outs of the engine, but he is only available on the weekends, and I have to come to him. I really want to thank you for all the info and time you have taken to try and help, it's great to know a community like this exists to help a novice like myself. As always I will keep you posted as to the progress. Good job. Both in getting the parts and getting a friend who can help. These scoots are fun and very useful. However, things like the valve clearance need to be checked and adjusted regularly (the valve clearance every 3K miles or so. So you8 need to learn how - simple, no mechanic's ability necessary, but you need a willingness to learn the simple procedure and just do it. The second time it will be a 30 minute job. Who knows - maybe the CDI and coil will solve the problem. Make sure to take some pliers and GENTLY squeeze the contacts of the coil wires so when you push them on they fit tight. Don't squeeze too tightly or you won't be able to slide the contacts on, and then would need to pry them open a little with a screwdriver. |
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