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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 21:32:21 GMT -5
I think the only thing that was ever done to this scoot was a CVT belt change and an oil change. I just changed the fuel filter and well, i took a picture, You tell me if it doesn't look original.  looks old, but you are searching for a cause to the scoot not working. If you can blow thru the filter it's not the cause. That said, take this opportunity to change the filter, change ALL the rubber hoses (fuel AND vacuum), check the spark plug. With 8k miles I'd put one of john's CDI units in (tvnacman here) and a new coil. Also adjust the valve clearances, etc. as you would any new (to you) scoot. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 20:46:38 GMT -5
lain The puller I linked you to from harbor freight, I used that puller with longer bolts and fender washers. Thread the longer bolts into the screw hole for the fan. Then work the center bolt into the crank and it pops off. The 3 jaw puller is very stress full on the flywheel. If it breaks the hub from the flywheel may give you big problems getting it off.   Looks pretty handy. I tried the claw type puller.. darn arms on the puller bent outwards so now it is useless, made 0 progress taking the flywheel off but thankfully didn't damage the scooter, going to try your puller method next. Thanks. What exactly is holding the flywheel on so tightly? Magnetic force? I can't understand how a flywheel that has not nuts holding it down totals a brand new claw puller made of carbon steel. The flywheel must have been a problem for the threaded puller when the previous owner had it as well since the inside threads for the puller located on the flywheel were stripped before I even tried. Splined items that are made with very close tolerances with the shaft they fit on often get "frozen". Some ti8mes it helps to put the puller on, pulling against the flywheel, and then tapping it with a hammer. but be careful - you do NOT want to damage any threads. Spray first with WD40. Also, s0ometimes it helps to take a propane torch to the area of splines, though you need to be VERY careful, as there is a rubber seal right behind the flywheel and it's easily damaged by heat. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 19:04:11 GMT -5
so the threads in the center are striped and the threads for the fan are striped too, how dooes the fan stay on? Have you ever removed a flywheel before? The threads the puller goes in are not where the fan screws in. Lately you have been posting a lot of nonsense. The other day you didnt know the CVT cases had pickup coils in them in a lot of models, swearing that you've never seen them but here in my area they are on 100% of all dealer sold scooters. Now we are talking about flywheels and you just seem to be confused like you've never done it before. Anyways cyborg thanks for the advise, I found a claw puller for gears at the store, gonna try it out, seems like the only hard part will be getting the ledges of the puller under the bell like you said. Will let you know how it works out. Geeze, Lain - why are you attacking another who is here offering help to others without pay - a volunteer? There was a time when we all, including you, were not as knowledgeable as we now are and were no doubt giving out erroneous info. If, at that time, someone jumped down my throat for something I'd probably not be very inclined to come back and help. If you don't like someone's advice just ignore it ... or, at most, send a PM for clarification. If it were me I would consider apologizing. I doubt John was trying to harm you. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 11:32:45 GMT -5
is this normal?  That black box is the CDI - basically a simple computer that controls when the coil sparks. Unlikely it has failed ... BUT ... You should definately change it out for a better one (that one looks OEM). The replacements remove the RPM limit and also vary when in the engine's cycle the spark happens so you get better power out of the engine. Higher performance replacements are inexpensive. The tricky part is this: Most of the replacements are called "advanced angle" CDIs. These work OK at speed but create problems starting that might even be damaging to the scooter. These are different than the GOOD ones which are called "advancing angle" CDIs (not advanCED, but advanCING) which vary when the spar occurs --- standard timing at low RPMs, varied for performance at higher RPMs. These eliminate the starting problem et give the better performance. I only know of one supplier of advancing angle CDIs, but fortunately he is a member of this bard (and a top notch supplier). Contact him under the ID "tvnacman" (real name John). Many or most here have bought from him; no complaints I know of. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 27, 2015 1:41:07 GMT -5
Yep, one other thing.
I had an almost identical problem. Thought it was a failing coil, so I bought a new coil/plug wire from GY6Racing (the best supplier!). When I went to install the new coil I discovered the spade connectors to the coil were not tight but had loosened up over time. At speed there just wasn't enough of a connection to support the current to the coil. Just tightening the connectors would have solved the problem, though the cheap $10 new coil was hardly a wasted investment.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 26, 2015 20:09:44 GMT -5
Ignition system here I come, thanks for the input, I will keep you posted. So, Aaron. There must be a harbor freight not too far away. The have a spark tester - it's an inline thing, only about $5. You pull the wire off the spark plug and attach the other end of the tester to the now-empty spark plug. The tester has a clear plastic body, and once you start (or try to start) the scoot it will light up each time there is a spark. IF there is a spark. Sort of an end-to-end tester for the whole ignition system - not perfect, but a great first step. Suggest you grab one. Or, if you happen to have an old induction timing light you can do the same by putting the clamp around the spark plug wire and see if the timing light flashes. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 26, 2015 15:10:57 GMT -5
The suddenness and randomness imply it's an ignition problem. But that could be from a number of things, and intermittent problems are the most difficult to trace down unless you ar5e lucky enough to catch it in a condition where it stays "off".
First guess would be the CDI ===> coil ===> plug wire & boot. It could be as simple as a loose connection of the 2 small wires going to the coil. It could be a bad spark plug wire, or a faulty connection to the boot. I doubt you can catch it when it stays in the fault condition, so best bet might be to just order new coil/wire/boot (cheap). If you can see if you are getting any spark, but if you can't catch it "off" you can't check this.
Next guess is ignition switch (key switch) has a faulty connection.
But of course you could have a failing fuel pump (or, remote possibility, just a blocked fuel filter). Again, hard to diagnose w/o it staying in the failed position.
Sorry - lots of maybe's and no real chance to tack it down w/o a more permanent failure.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 25, 2015 13:05:32 GMT -5
Well glad your honest, much easier to help you. I was told once if you have a calibrated elbow you don't need a torque wrench, all others get one. As much as you wrench on these get one. Very easy to over torque this gem especially with just four Studs and Junk to boot. Pick up a cheap Beam type at Harbor Freight or Pawn shops have tons. Be careful of the Clicker ratchet type as some need to be calibrated very so often, and stored un-loaded. We have in the South (Carolina's) every weekend red neck flea market's with Tons of New and used tools. Say it was overtorqued, what do I look for when I remove the old studs? If they were should I add some sort of sealant/locker or should I tap the holes and put helicoils in? Lying doesn't help, of course I'm going to be honest, this is my baby afterall. Rebuilt 2 times after friend crashed it a couple times. It coasts at 40 and doesn't fear hills haha Check for 2 things: 1. Get at least a metal ruler or straight edge (mechanics straight edge preferable, but probably not an absolute requirement). Place it diagonally across the crankcase surface and see if you can slip a .001 feeler gauge between it and the surface anywhere. Test the other diagonal. Then do the same with the jug under surface, the top of the jug, and the bottom of the head. You are just looking for warpage. If found it would be cheapest to just get another jug or head. 2. Check specifically for metal pulled up around the bolt holes in the crank (someone suggested thyis earlier) and use a fine stone to flatten anything you find. Just make sure no filings will fall down into the crankcase opening But, again - don't be convinced the gasket blew out just because of improper torque. I( had the same problem and had correct torque, no blowby. I know very knowledgable people say this cannot or should not happen, and they are right, yet it happens. Go figure. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 25, 2015 11:23:05 GMT -5
Ya know, thinking here I believe you said you had it apart bout four times with this problem alone? Wonder if you haven't Drawn up the Metal (top of the cases) around those Studs? It wouldn't take much. Ive seen this happen more than once. Pay very close attention to that area (Around the Studs). I'm fortunate to have some machinist straight edges of various lengths to check deck flatness. It's possible I overtorqued it, I do not have a torque wrench. I would tighten the nuts on the cam holder thing to hand tight then take my socket wrench and turn them another half circle and stop there. Do you think that would be too much? wow. correct torque on a head is critical, as is torquing in the proper order - especially on an aluminum head. Surprised you do not have a warped cylinder head. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 25, 2015 5:37:31 GMT -5
I couldn't get a clear pic in the dark ill try soon daylight but my temp is at 185 crusing at 6 rpms at 25-30 mphs (10 mile ride) aftet i replaced the plastic fan cover and engine cover (forgot to mention plastic from engine was never put back on till today) temps are better but i dont know the normal temps are supposed to be. Are you saying the plastic shroud around the engine was not put back on until today? If so you are very lucky the engine is not gone! These are air cooled engines. The fan forces air around the cylinder head BECAUSE OF THE SHROUD. Without it (the shroud) there is little cooling. It's very, very fortunate you were paying attention to temps ... might be the thing which saved you from a new engine. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 23, 2015 16:28:30 GMT -5
Lain ...
1. Put the 150cc engine in. Life above 35mph - in the same scooter you love and respect - is not all that bad.
2. I did NOT mean to put JB BETWEEN the jug & case. That would be fatal (never get it apart). I neant - smear the outside of the seam. It works.
3. The vent in the valve cover is 1/4 inch approx. That is more than enough to vent pressure, presuming you don't have the vent hose blocked. Remove the hose and feel if there is a lot of air blowing out. Put your thumb over the vent end - I'm betting you do not feel any appreciable pressure. Drilling a hole in the crankcase is a bad enough idea anyway, but it would also drop shavings inside the engine. Step away from the drill!
4. Though Jerry never had the gasket slide out, I did. No appreciable blowby. It happens, even with properly torques heads. I will never again NOT use sealant, though Jerry is very, very right about being careful to not block the oil passage.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 23, 2015 12:15:39 GMT -5
Yeah, had the same problem. Didn't want to pull the jug (new rings, yet another break-in period) so I JB Welded where the jug meets the crankcase. If ever have to remove things of course will have to Dremel thru the JB Weld, but that's OK. Oil leak stopped.
ps: I thought by now you would have pulled that 49cc rubber band contraption and put in a real motor.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 23, 2015 1:31:39 GMT -5
GEH I see what you are talking about with the 45degree bend. But how effective is that at removing the filter from the engine heat? This way the filter is much closer to the open air. You cant see it from the pic , but it sits a little lower then the side plastic panel, and its actually touching the bottom of the panel. Since the hot air is moving back , the uni " in this position " is sucking at 360 degrees therefore pulling some open coolr air. When the filter sits directly behind the carb , it is directly in the hot air path at all 360 degrees of the filter. I can't say its not sucking in any of the hotter air , but I know its at least sucking in some cooler air. The bottom and rear of the uni I the pic above , will be sucking in the cooler air. Since the upper and inner side of the filter is still in the compartment are , I would expect it would still suck in some hotter air, but its still not centered in the middle of the enime compartment , so I'm not sure if that helps a little or if it doesn't " when it comes to the top and inner side of the uni " Suggest yuo rotate it 180 degrees. You have it going to the right side, directly above the hot exhaust. If you swivel the elbow and head it toward the left side instead the filter will be sitting in significantly cooler air. Then you will be hitting your 70mph. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 22, 2015 23:27:47 GMT -5
If I'm not mistaken, he did that back near the beginning of this thread I guess I missed the video that was posted by the OP. If you could refer me to that post I would really appreciate it. Darn. Must be thinking of another thread. Sorry - went back thru and obviously I'm mistaken. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 22, 2015 22:53:42 GMT -5
Bought not running. Thought it would be an east fix like every other gy6 I have owned.... nope! I bought a scooter for $150, got it running in 15 minutes. Bought a GY6 go cart, put a new carb in it and had it going in no time..... this is the only GY6 I have really struggled to get going. that provides a lot of good information. Can you post a video of how the trike sounds when you try to start it with a freshly charged battery? If I'm not mistaken, he did that back near the beginning of this thread |
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