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Post by dmartin95 on May 24, 2015 9:48:10 GMT -5
Warn your little sister if she sees him to run to a safe haven. If shes in the house and he knocks on the door to call 911. John That needs a double or triple like! The mopeds and other "stuff" can be replaced... Make sure you sit your sister down and explain the dangers and the procedure to deal with such an event. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 24, 2015 7:02:47 GMT -5
This was a 150cc
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Post by dmartin95 on May 24, 2015 6:58:30 GMT -5
lol, crazy kid  Ok, The little devil on my left shoulder just went over to the right and stuck my angel in the side of his head with his pitchfork..... I found myself rooting for the kid on the Scooter! He out ran two police Bikes on a Moped.... How awesome is that?  |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 24, 2015 6:48:36 GMT -5
Get the VIN, dummy up a bill of sale, get a title/reg, and steal it. Rare, but can happen. I would under no circumstances accept something if it was stolen, even if they gave it to me... The state I live in, Michigan, needs nothing but a B.O.S. and the VIN to register a "Moped" (anything under 100cc) .... However, I would not dummy up a B.O.S. and try to register a stolen moped. That's just nuts. If I run a VIN and it's stolen, I'm calling the authorities, not the secretary of state. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 23, 2015 21:20:46 GMT -5
Look Lain, someone needs to give you a swift kick in the rear for not using your brain... I think this is the wrong place and time for a delicate way to tell you that you screwed up.
You didn't follow your instincts, the very second the guy even mentioned meth, you should've severed contact and got a hold of the authorities. Meth/Crack/Heroin/ICE addicts are not like some young kid that tokes a joint here and there. They are very dangerous and I highly recommend you still contact the Authorities and get a restraining order. If he knows where you live, you need to take this seriously. If he's identified you as a mark, you have to get ready because at some point he will aim for his target.
Another example of "No good deed goes un-punished!!!
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Post by dmartin95 on May 23, 2015 13:23:23 GMT -5
I will participate....
I'm not exactly sure when I'll get to it... I have my normal work, opening my new scooter shop, yard/farm work and if I'm very lucky, I get about 2hrs of sleep per day.
My new Ride is an Yamaha S MAX, but I guess I can ride around one of GY6 150's for a day or so.....
I have both, the toy gauge that looks like a meat thermometer and the high tech Koso temp sender with LED gauge. I will run test on both.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 23, 2015 13:12:56 GMT -5
It was tvacman that primed it by hand. Was it ? I'll have to go back and read my old posts . I'm sure your right, but I better check. Sorry dmartin , I was not ragging on you , I was just curious how it was done. LOL.... You had me so confused.....  I don't prime the pump, I just rotate the engine and the pump will prime itself - It's a sump pump and it's submerged in oil, no need to prime it. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 22, 2015 14:58:31 GMT -5
Absolutely not. Your friend likely has a 3 phase, 12 pole stator based on the wiring you describe... The three orange are all A/C out, green is ground blue/whit is your pick up.... An A/C single phase (even if it's floating ground won't work) stator will not work with his R/R. The wires for your A/C stator are this: White/Yellow A/C output (even though there both A/C, this is single phase/half wave and not 2 phase - If it has a floating ground then it's 2 phase/full wave) Green is ground Red with black stripe is for the A/C CDI (This is your firing coil) Blue with white stripe runs to your CDI (this is your pick up) If you had an 11 pole, three phase A/C stator that would work with his R/R but you're out of luck in this case. Darn, well the only thing stopping us from using the stator from the old engine is the flywheel. I thought I had the right puller but I do not. How do I get this thing off without a puller? Or is there something very similar to a puller I can buy locally at autozone or something? We tried wedging flatheads under the sides of the flywheel and trying to push it out while tapping the flywheel gently, but no luck. Tried pulling it with all of our might just because we're guys, no luck. Tried staring at it for a while too, but we couldn't scare it off... Not that I am aware of I'd be cautious about trying alternative methods... You may screw something up and make the problem worst... MY advice is this bud, exercise a little patience.... John (TVNacman) has these things in stock and can get ya one out in no time.... They're cheap. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 22, 2015 12:01:45 GMT -5
So I'm over at my friends now. There are 5 wires coming from the ac stator, and 5 wires coming from the dc stator. The Dc stator has 3 orange wires, a green, and a blue/white. The Ac stator has a white, yellow, green, red/black and blue/white. Looks similar enough to just change the wire ends and stick the wires in the right places. Would this be the correct way to wire the AC labeled one to the DC harness? White, yellow and red/black to the orange wires, green to green, and blue/white to blue/white? Absolutely not. Your friend likely has a 3 phase, 12 pole stator based on the wiring you describe... The three orange are all A/C out, green is ground blue/white is your pick up.... An A/C single phase (even if it's floating ground won't work) stator will not work with his R/R. The wires for your A/C stator are this: White/Yellow A/C output (even though they're both A/C, this is single phase/half wave and not 2 phase - If it has a floating ground then it's 2 phase/full wave) Green is ground Red with black stripe is for the A/C CDI (This is your firing coil) Blue with white stripe runs to your CDI (this is your pick up) If you had an 11 pole, three phase A/C stator that would work with his R/R but you're out of luck in this case. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 22, 2015 9:43:33 GMT -5
Jerry stole the text right off of my keyboard.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 22, 2015 9:42:32 GMT -5
I was going to suggest getting a hold of RapidJim as well.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 22:17:30 GMT -5
I would remind him that even Autotrader and car dealerships post their VINs online now. It allows the customer to research the vehicle history. The only folks who don't post VINS are the stupidly paranoid and the crooks (they don't want you to research the lemon). I just gave up because I figured the exact samething... I figure this guy was in the stupidly paranoid category.... The last series of emails I had went with him were like this: ME: Does it leak oil and whats the History with title, are you the original owner? Has it ever been titled? Him: No, It does not leak oil ---------------- Me: Hi thanks for the info but you forgot to mention the title history. Would you mind sending me a picture of the vin plate so I can run it through the NCIB? Him: Sorry, I can't provide VIN until you pay ------------------ Me: Okay, then I'm sorry, I'm going to have to call off the deal, you have been evasive about title history and will not provide VIN, so I can not purchase this moped. Him: Buddy, I think you're trying to Scam me and I'm not falling for it... ------------------- At that point I was just done....Negotiations were over.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 22:09:46 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum and Hello From Michigan!
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 21:57:24 GMT -5
Alright so I've finally gotten a handle on carb tuning, next on my list would be to start upgrading the cvt so wound it be better to just save up and get something like this www.partsforscooters.com/169-159-GY6-Transmission-Kit?sc=31&category=132543Or should i go one part at a time? Two things I'm trying to improve. First my scooter doesn't really coast until under 2500ish rpm, it always feels like it's pulling to slow down. Second i would like to improve acceleration it's ok if i have to trade off a few mph i max out at about 56mph.at 7900rpm, the road i take to work is stop and go 45mph And I'm always the fasted,but not when it comes to starting from stopped. I don't really know what parts would be good to start out with or if I'll benefit from a package deal. Also i plan on replacing my belt with a gates still have the original on 6000km from when i bought it new. not sure if i should but exact same size or if there is different belt variations with different benefits. You will find almost everyone has their own opinion on this, but mine is this.... If you're going to upgrade the CVT and don't know alot about how the clutch spring, torque spring, slider vs roller, it may be best to select a kit... To further along with this, I suggest a kit of components that match.... Get an NCY Kit, Hoca Kit, Dr pulley, just don't mix dr pulley with NCY or NCY with KOSO, etc etc... Doesn't matter what you select, just what ever you go with, get matching components. I purchased this Kit from Ebay... It's a Taiwan seller but I had my item 5 days. After installing it, I ordered 2 more. At only $170.00 It is a great deal IMO!  |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 18:53:32 GMT -5
I am of one of the Nay-sayers.....
Look, I have a drawer with 6 of them in it... I bought them way back when I first started my venture into upgrading anything on a scoot... In fact, they may have been my very first mod purchase... Everything I buy, I try to buy in bulk to get the best price...
Anyhow, I learned they're inaccurate... You can flick the thing and it will jump 15° and stay at that mark... In addition, mine leaked oil. Now, yours may be fine and functional.... But the bottom line is you have no idea other an educated guess about what's going on beyond where it's marked....
Seriously Geh, if ya wanna monitor you oil temps, get something like a KOSO sender and digital LED gauge and install it in the crankcase like you're supposed to... You can get the whole setup for around 50~60 bucks... And, if ya get a china based one, you get the sender and gauge for 15~20 bucks....
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But, that's only half of what's going on this thread... Setting the oil gauge aside, this is your scooter you ride all the time and if you notice a big jump in temperature from where it's normally at, it doesn't matter what you're using to monitor to the temp if your results are able to be repeated. So, yes, if you've had a noticeable jump in oil temp, absolutely you need to investigate and get to the root cause.
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